phatt20

just put r1 carbs on a 7k in a toyota starlet wagon, 170 on the mains, moved th clip on the needles up one slot from factory, 2 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw. runs real well, 13ish on the air fuel ratio at full load. engine has had headwork, mild cam, (220ish @50") etc. drives like a fuel injected car.

sandblast the engine bay, nothing brings it up better, im guessing you have one of the 'dip the hose in the bag of sand ' type? they are painstaking to use. i went and bought one of the 'fill the barrel with sand and plug the air pressure into it' type. way better, less blockages and way faster.

dont have to have them, if they are there and have cracked or broken lenses allowing water/dirt to enter its a fail. i dont even check them.

eeww yuck

this^ on any of the receipts does it mention the radiator being serviced? often iv seen other workshops/people repair a cracked head/bhg without addressing whats caused it in the first place. whenever we do a headgasket we wont give any warranty unless the radiator is serviced and thermostat replaced at the same time. often its the customer being a tight arse and trying to save those final few dollars that makes trouble for the next poor bastard that owns it.

do the points, plugs, leads, filters etc.clean out the carb, check for vacuum leaks, then see how it runs.

sounds like a dying fuel pump, does he run it round with fuck all in the tank a lot? we have replaced a huge amount of pumps over the last year, with my theory being every cunt is broke because of the shit nz economy, and so cars are being filled as little as possible. when they are run low the pumps overheat, and are more likely to pick up shit off the bottom of the tank. /proly isnt that at all.

bike carbs are good on 4cyls being as most bikes that have them are four cyl, but would be a bit of a cunt to set up on a 6 , unless you maybe got two sets of triples off a triumph or similar? but yeah, if budget is the key you really want to get some weber/delortos off something with a similar sized capacity per cyl to help reduce the amount of fucking round with jets. by the time you have bought jets for 6 barrels it gets expensive.

any of those carbs will be sweet if tuned/rejetted to suit. any reason you wanting downdrafts instead of side drafts? got enuf bonnet cleareance etc? always wanted to carb a 5mge, will be a mean upgrade over the shitty factory injection i reckon.

compression height is 33.5 , wanting around the 83mm bore size, they also have a 20mm gudgeon compared to other k motors 18mm . was hoping to get a piston with a small chamber to suit the big valve twin squish head i have, but flat tops will also work , can just do another head to suit.

so its looking like the general consensus is to just pay 1500$ and stop being a tight cunt ? keltik was that for off the shelf pistons or custom made?

for a 7k toyota engine, had the acl piston book out the other day and and couldnt find anything that suits my requirements , yeah 1500 is proly reasonable if he holds the monopoly on custom pistons in nz , but still almost twice the price a lot of places in the US etc seem to be able to do them for. just thought surely somewhere else does them in nz? may well not be anywhere cheaper but ya dont know unless ya ask. my main isue with going overseas for them is the long turn around time and i have heard i few horror stories of pistons turning up with not 100% what you specced them at, mates ones had .5mm less compression height than he specced for instance, he just skimmed the block to suit so wasnt a big deal but yeah .

need to get a set of four custom forged pistons made, only place i found so far is denco engineering in chch, but apparently costs around 1500$ a set, which seems a little pricey. anyone know who else could do me a set for a more realistic price? was budgeting around the 1000 dollar mark. a mate got a set of venolia ones made in the us for 800nzd deliverd, but it was like 2 month turn around.

this will fix rubbing, have run the same wheel /tyre on a couple of starlets with no dramas. just the right amount of stretch.

not actually a bad idea. would have to find some other silly cunt(s) to do the mission as well, be a mean roadie.

jaaaysus, i was thinking 500 would have had it parked in my drive. if freight was a bit cheaper it would of been worth it .

ill take third dibs then! price sent to dunedin? 0272968777

pretty much all cars have a eater tap of some sort, yours is proly vacuum operated rather than cable? a lot of later model stuff is. check vacuum lines to the tap etc. also , how well maintained is the car? if the anti freeze/ coolant has been neglected it may need a a flush gun run thru it to flush sediment out of the radiator/ heater core.

dunno bout the brand but they look ok, good solid pin bosses etc.

also, what type of fuel pump are you using? some/ alot of bike carbs are pretty sensitive on fuel pressure. every bike carb conversion i do i try to fit the matching bike fuel pump, or at least one from a bike with the same type of carbs/displacement/cylinders.

not too sure on that but all the flatslides i have mikuni's and tm's are venturi activated, ie there is no pump as such the slide opening and needle lifting away from the jet allows the fuel to be sucked into the intake charge. If one of your plugs were wet but not all check that the fuel stop plunger that clips too the floats hasn't slipped off the float bracket as that will make it flood that cyclinder what do mean by having no pump? basicly, if ithe carbs have a butterfly AND a 'flatslide' then they are a cv type carb, if they have a flatslide that is mechanically operated and an accellerator pump , and no butterfly, they are whats refferred to as a 'flatslide carb' . im guessing your carbs are the factory cvtype mikunis. i apologise in advance for the drunken spelling. etc.

flatslides are usually a pumper carb, ie; have an accelerator pump and the slide works via the throttle linkage instead of the engine vacuum dictating the rate of slide-opening. flatslides are awesome but are a little more complicated to tune. what do the carbs say on them are they mikuni or keihin?

get some angry cams ground, up the compression, tidy up the ports, make up/buy some nice extractors, and slap on some triple 40/45mm sidedrafts. have always wanted to do this but too many projects intefere. would sound so sex.

my old skid car had a 7k with a alloy case w5# box, made custom mounts, gearlever came thru factory hole and didnt have to touch the tunnel at all.

hilux lsds are a fairly average lsd, strong enuf but dont have 'ramps' to increase limiting of slip in relation to torque input, and by the time you shim them up to work properly they may as well be locked, pretty sure i read somewhere that there is a place in nz that modifies them to accept ramping type setup tho?