The Bronze

Windscreen is finally in. Brand spankers though, and nice dark band at top. Very lush.

i called him today and left a message, I'll try go see him tomoz and see where he's at in his planning and shit. I do know it is now early January, not December.

The main place for parts is the guys in Silverdale - http://www.weberspecialties.co.nz/contact.html Old geezers, know their shit.

Nothing in my stash sorry. As these usually came on Falcons I have some guys you could try. I bought an XE head of a guy last week who had a heap of Falcon shit under his house, might have one of these, though i mainly saw the strombergs. timxp8@hotmail.com if you want to flick him an email. Falconfutura on trademe (Mike) usually has everything, but charges a bit. If you want I probably have his email or cellie somewhere.

Might as well add what I can from there that might help...

Dunno if you've found it via the google but XFalcon has an old thread on these, heaps of images missing but this shit might help: Service Info here: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toonga/library/34%20adm%20carby%20pics?sort=3&page=1 Also, copypasta of identifying guide thing: 1. Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open. 2. Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream. 3. Fuel inlet fitting. 4. Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug. 5. Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted. 6. Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle. 7. Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to thissolenoid when the ignition is switched on. 8. Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed. 9. Accelerator pump lever. 10. Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up. 11. Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed. 12. Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open. 13. Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration. 14. Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open. 15. Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. 16. Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture.

my lack of windscreen is making me a tentative. will advise.

Few hundred or so dollars.

Auckland somewhere.

A friend has asked me to try and find some cars for a small photo shoot in early December. The ad is aimed at probably a more traditional classic car owner, so possibly something british and more in the factory restored vein than anything eighties jappa or overly modified. Top of the list as the ideal is, and I quote "Austin 8, Pre 60's" - But as they're not really car peeps, and past experience tells me they're not going to know what they want until they see it. So if you've got a minter classic, probably pre-70's of the english or early australian persuasion, and you're keen, get in touch. I'll need car deets and pics to send through to them to see if it is what they're after. There is money involved that will cover costs.

Thanks; researching options/experiences; the Scarebird thing is a bracket that works with Mustang discs and S-10 Calipers, which don't look helluva huge but evidently do the job better. Also needs a bias valve if keeping the OE master. Brackets are 165 usd. But callipers and discs are cheap and plentiful. Cheers, Mike.

Bit of a brainpick: Have you got drums or discs on the front? If disc are they factory or did you do a conversion? I'm looking at the scarebird stuff as a future thing but if you've done a conversion be keen to know experiences. Also, with the bagging are you replacing bushes and what not at the same time? Figuring mine would benefit from a refresh.

Spot the difference. Wow, camera shows how much that trim needs polishing.

A chip that spread it seems.

I decided to channel my emotions into some masking and cutting for the fuel flap and headlight surrounds where the blackouts need freshening up. Pics below indicate whats involved. The etch primer is drying at the moment so finished pics later. There are vinyl masks you can buy and use instead of painting it but I really can't see why you'd bother. Vinyl peels over time. This is the easy stuff, the entire rear panel between the tail lights (refer pic above) needs done too, but I'm going to do that when I have the arse apart later.

All good thanks, had one arranged twenty mins after breaking it - The joys of constantly buying shit to fix it is knowing where to ask. Just gotta sort the insurance now.

Today I broke my windscreen. I am very upset. Hopefully I'll have a new one before the leadfoot adventures.

Good find on the seatbelts, cheaper than place i was looking. Have they got the white approval tag?

process of elimination really. eventually you'll be rolling concours spec.

Just putting this here... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Marauder-2-Door-Hardtop-Custom-1963-mercury-ford-marauder-2-door-hartop-custom-/171484001377?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27ed3e3461&item=171484001377&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

I've done it, once, on a front screen, need patience and definitely someone to help.

i believe that three is only a trianglejerk, four would be a squarejerk, and five a pentagramjerk. In fact i think 7 is the minimum for a satisfactory, and geometrically accurate circlejerk. Thanks. /lingpost

Steel wheels and hubcaps. That pic I attached is a minter notch on widened steel rims as reference.

I spent a day last week researching and pricing mustang bushes and front suspension out of the States because apparently the majority are the same as on an XB Falcon which is what I've got/need. So you can get a nolathane/urethane package from Jegs or similar for less than anywhere local - the aftermarket stuff available for them is awesome. Keeping 12 slots? Please say no. Considered steel?