Simon

Spence, you would know about this. Was also thinking air bags. Probably not that difficult if you buy the right kit. Its just certs suck and i may as well do engine conversion as well... And then get carried away and have my alarm clock go off and wake up.

Project thread: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18201

Only 10 eh, sucks heaps. I got a set of front and read hubs with disks and drums spare if you want to drill shit out. I couldnt be bothered. Also have s13 studs that will fit in the holes you drill out. Oh, and new lug nuts with washers to work on the 13x6.5 wheels i would sell you. LOL. Cars maybe for sale now.

Maybe those MOFuking kids next door had been putting bark and stones in the tank like your aw11. Put more petrol in the tank. Mothers car surges hard when the tank gets below half. Carb fuel tank on EFI car means no baffles in tank.

Haha, yeh we could figure something out if i go 3s. Yes, cams came from Markku. Heres a spec sheet. Click the little picture, the big picture is huge. Didn't have to use re drilled cam gears. Moar retard of inlet and advance of exhaust though. (I think that's what they were doing). Markku said use these so I did. Cooling system is sweet now. Nice new red coolant and cleaned pipes etc.

Cheers, Just put some raceish cams in it. 265 duration and moar lift, don't know how much but turns the motor into interference as i found out. Also redrilled cam gears, light fly wheel and black top 20v extractors, down pipe etc. Just got it running, still need to do dizzy timing and O2 sensor but it runs all good as it is now. A bit rough at idle, tries to die when you turn the lights / fan on etc, screwed idle speed up kinda fixed it but then idles way too high. Might just have to keep on the gas cos that fixes it. Revs up way quicker than before, rev counter cant keep up. Haven't driven it yet, need to sort exhaust and clutch bleed but looking forward to seeing just how much better it goes. Might not meat my expectations and ill continue on my 3sgte quest. But it may be pretty sweet and dort hard. Might keep it.

Selling my motor bike to fund this. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... 77&ed=true Pondering 3SGTE conversion.

And probably more so the fact that you would have three wide tyres and one skinny one so they tell you to keep your speed down or else things may get awesome when cornering too fast.

It's been done. I think its choice.

(Edited) Palmy Monthly Meet is at 6.30 every 1st Thursday of the month. This month we are going to Wabi Sabi on Broadway - park on Broadway ave near the restaurant. THE NEXT MEET WILL BE ON THURSDAY JUNE 6 at Wabi Sabi on Broadway ave. You're welcome to come along. We can be identified by a group of people hanging round oldish cars haha. See ya there! Simon

Just dropped motor and box together with loom, inlet and exhaust manifolds attached. Was easier than i thought. Smashed dizzy cap in the process though. Cant really expect all to go perfect when doing it by your self for the first time. Got the box split off, clutch and fly wheel off. Dont have torque wrench so will have to wait for that. Standard clutch is quite a lot smaller and pressure plate weaker than black top. Didnt realize it was that big. Standard bluetop fly wheel = 7.5kg Black top = 6kg But you probably knew that. Found out only the two bolts closest to the center of the exhaust manifold were on (and they were loose as). The other studs had fallen out so the whole manifold leaked on the under side. Dont know how i missed that, you can usually hear them. Also need shit like engine mounts cos some of mine are stuffed. Might just fill mine with poo and wait till i do the small port. Love mechanical work rather than body work. You can get so much more done in a day.

I had 40mm Eibach's in my mk2 golf. Worked good, only hit bump stops when pushing hard. Cooked the shocks though. Heard bad things about king springs, although possibly have them in my mr2 and that handles ok. I think lowering springs from the same brand are pretty car specific as to their quality. You never know how much testing they do in the factory, if any at all.

Can vouch for old Honda reliability. I got a early 90's XR-250R. 4 valve thing. Oil cooler etc. First kick it goes every time. Can do heaps of kays to a tank on trail rides. Would never own a 2 stroke. That combination of motor and bike will be sweet. I used to work for a guy rebuilding / modifying MX suspension with RG3 valve setups. The Showa suspension on Honda's and Suzuki's is far superior to the KYB's on Yamaha's and the odd ball rubbish KTM have. Hardest part is finding someone local to ride with.

Same, reason is the boot lid with the holes in for spoiler also has a vent in it to supply air to an in boot filter which i havnt done yet. So once i put the filter in the boot ill do spoiler. The car was never optioned with side skirts from the factory so there are no mounts. Will have to figure that out also.

Got the car about a year and a half ago in 6th form with a few small bits of rust to cut out and get a wof the next day. Then proceeded with my "minor" rust work: After ages i started spraying it with shit primer from trade me. Massive fail there. Decided to sand it all off and use a proper primer. Another fail, was like sanding cheese. Wiped it off with thinners even after months of sitting. Got some good filler primer and got a spray gun off trade me then went hard. Thought because i could spray filler primer with no runs etc, i could also paint it. Big fail + waste of $200 So took it into one of dads mates on a friday to mask up and paint in the booth. Not million dollar paint job but i still havnt (and probably wont) been charged, not even for paint. Its not what you know, its who you / your dad knows. I also have a factory spoiler and side skirts to put on soon. Motor is just standard large port 4AGE 16v. I just have to get some last things like cam seals and cam belt before i take the motor out and install the 265 cams from Kiwicams along with a Black top 20v flywheel, clutch and extractors. Had a 6 speed box to put in, was told it was LSD . (Every gear box is LSD on trade me). So sold it. Future plans are not heaps, just brakes and maybe suspension. Its got some unknowen lowering springs and shock inserts. Need to get tyres so can put the other rims (same as front) on. 0-100 as it is now: Some people think these are OS. Not me. Real fun to drive, find myself just driving over the saddle rd because i can.

Now after bell housing bolts and a k40 gear stick with top plate assy then thats all i need to slot it in.

Two old owners. $500, 75k, Best car i will probably ever buy lol. Stand on the horn / flash lights etc next time you see it

Mean car, Heres my CA91 Trying to find low profile tyres for these 13's so i can slam a bit. Cant find any cheap though.

My father is in the process of installing one at Autokraft on Tremane av. May have come to a halt cos no ones got any money to do dyno runs atm. Ill find out.

Now getting a 4K. Then sell asap. Hate it already.

Iv welded a few tanks, I drain them and take the pump out then stick a hose from the exhaust pipe of a car down the filler hole and let it push out all the petrol fumes and also fill the tank with carbon dioxide. Let the car idle for like 5-10 mins pumping carbon dioxide into the filler pipe and out the pump hole. Never had one blow up.

Good purchase, was trying to raise funds to take all the good parts but meh, money to spend on the corolla i suppose. Are you just going to get it road worthy and drive it? I dont think Tim ever got it running properly. Pretty sure Andrews dieing silvertop pulled away from it. We decided it was dodgy wiring and half the engine sensors not plugged in / working. Will be a very quick car if you get the easy engine side of things sorted.

Those last photos are choice. Cant stop looking at the rear wheels

Lots, and lots. Especially in lower powered cars that have been given big motors where the suspension was never designed for 3 times the power. Sir Newton figured this out a loong time ago. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. If you take this pic for example The wheel is turned anti clock wise if you are looking at the back. There for the diff is forced clockwise and thats why the tramp bars there are fine. If the bars were on the top they would still have to point forward. The only way they can point backwards is if a, you do skids in reverse, or b, they are held some how to the body. To quote Heinlein "I am only an egg" I'm looking at the springs on a escort, and see that the front of the leaf the springs are linked directly to the body, whereas the rear is only loosely linked by a shackle. So, to me the rear part of the springs need controlling more than the front. Like I say, I have absolutely no experience. Please let me know where I'm wrong... I see that there's a rotational component to the stresses, but still one end of the spring is more controlled than the other. Cheers, Steve. Well i have zero experience also. Noob school boy here, dont even think iv been in an escort. However with a bid of mechanical knowledge and a fascination with anything that will do b-outs, its not hard to figure it out. Someone up there said that they thought most tramp bars go to the back. And they do, but they are mounted to the body. These ones that point forward are not mounted to the body. If i was going to do tramp bars i would use the front facing ones not mounted to the body. This is because you would have to be pretty good to get the fixed ones all the right length and aligned properly. While the ones above are extra un-sprung weight, they dont alter the geometry of the system. (fixed ones shouldnt, but arnt as easy to knock up in your garage. More chance of a stuff up). They can also be easily taken off leaving no trace of modification for MR WOF. And most the cars on this forum are not for going round corners fast and handling, so un-sprung weight = meh. Thats how i see it anyway.