japawagons

Oh nos...

Anything from early 2000s onwards use O2 sensors pretty much continuously...

Anything from early 2000s onwards use O2 sensors pretty much continuously...

Also 02 sensors are incredibly important, if you removed it it would just max out the fuel trim and run rich all the time. Potentially up to 11:1 AFR and use all the petrols... Pretty much anything from 1990 onwards actually use their 02 sensors alot for idle and light to mid throttle driving...

What you talking about, that side pipe is ideal. It's also still there. Just with mufflers...

Keen for this also, my exhaust is much quieter than the last GP Trackday so hopefully I won't be as much of nuisance...

Ferodos are renowned for having a ridiculously high wear rate. I ran a set of OMP Racing Front Pads and got 2 winter series and numerous track days and twilight sessions out of them. Lasted the same length of time as a set of tyres... Rear pads basically didn't wear at all... I don't think you have a temp issue, I would recommend a change of pad compound... I am about to trial a full set of EBC yellows, heard both good and bad things about them... But seriously Ferodos are overrated as shit.

Do you know the operating temp range of the compound you're running and have you measured the brake temps to see where you are in comparison?? Yes incorrect temps can affect the wear rate but I wouldn't think that much, are you massively overheating the pads regularly? We can get a whole season out of a set of pads on a TL Falcon (1470 Kgs), we've got temp sensors which help alot and I just tune the ducting over the weekend to keep them in range we want... From my reading I think too low a brake pad temp can cause excessive wear and high disc abrasion (do not quote me on this, my memory is hazy at best) I high brake pad temp causes brake fade and then material fracturing, the V8 utes are underbraked and I basically have to manage fracturing brake pads all weekend. Are you seeing that? Also brake technique affects pad temperatures dramatically... Those are all of my cents, and my currency has a very poor exchange rate.

You need to facsimile me some of that ASAP, sounds fantastic...

Yeah all the image links are dead. Imageshack no longer allows them now it's a paid service.

Haha that's awesome. A screwdriver. Ha. Make an award out of it for the next large Oldschool gathering...

I run Motul RBF600. Always clear at every bleed.it

Haha now that's a contrast... Simon you classy motherfucker...

I use roll cage tube. You know it's going to do the job...

Who's girlfriend did you sleep with?? Fuck that's a dick move. My condolences...

Are they decent branded braided hoses? Hoses have the biggest surface area of material to create a source of debry or sediment.

Yeah what your doing sounds perfect. Clearly you have something supplying sediment. It's normal to see seal material building up in reservoirs etc but usually over very long periods of time on road cars. On race cars I don't see it due to frequency of fluid change...

That sounds like it's worth investigating. I would be stripping down the calliper and checking that out and probably giving the entire system a over zealous flush through... I think you may have an issue. Could be the internal lining of the hose breaking down or seal deposits.

Engine oil is for engines not for drinking. I think it might've got to your head a little bit...

R888s have gone up in price significantly since I brought a set. Need a new set. Thinking about the price makes me dizzy and I buy them wholesale. Fantastic tyre though, wet or dry they just work. And last well if your cars set upright. 2 years and a huge amount of laps on my 1st set.

Input shaft bearings are generally noisest in 1st and get progressively quiet through the gears... In my experience but thats mostly FWD boxes.

Rolling in headlight envy right now.

So Imageshack is no longer free and has dumped all my photos out of this thread. Sorry. (Will sort this sometime) Anyway just letting the world know I do in fact still own this old girl...

Never used them, don't see any need to start. I always tighten by hand and then torque wrench....