xsspeed

Thought I would slam this up as I started to compile a list myself of places to get quotes/check out for both car and bike gear. Powdercoating: East Tamaki Powder Coaters: 3 Parkwood Place East Tamaki 2013, Auckland (09) 274 8489 Steel Blasting and Coating: (09) 836-4456 - Page 52 of Yellow pages (Also do sand/media blasting) Sand Blasting: As above plus Auckland Steel Blast Ltd (09) 813-1988 - Page 52 of Yellow Pages 40 Bancroft Crescent, Glendene Anodising: (More for bmx/push bike parts) Alert Anodising Ltd 59 Crooks Road, East Tamaki. (09) 274-0717 Anyway just thought I'd get the ball rolling, I remember someone recommending a place out west for powdercoating but can't find thread.

Thanks mate will do

lol, I have the money burning a whole at the moment after missing out on something else, just not the space for two right now. Any boes keen to have a look for me?

Let me know if anythings needed to be brought down - should confirm trip in next day or so

Anyone in Auckland/Hamilton or thereabouts got storage available? Just after something temporary if I buy these trucks till I clear two shells out of my drive.

Holy shit that was philosophical, and true

last time I looked there were two on trademe - may have sold though. I don't know how much money you have laying about but as cool as Josh's might be, I'm not about to try find $6k for a 'tina estate. I can think of far better things to spend that sort of cashola on. I think I am in the same boat as you. Already committed to too many cars as it is

last time I looked there were two on trademe - may have sold though.

Progress is progress even when its not... So decided to buy anothe road bike as the avanti is just too big a frame to work out as a fixie. So picked up a Healing Shogun just now on trademe. At least now it means I can commute on the white bike over summer while I turn the Shogun into a fixie. Also the mrs was feeling left out on the pushbike front so I bought her this on trademe yesterday: In other news surgery is looming for my shoulder so need to get as much done as possible ASAP

Ah choice, so whats the deal with spacers then? to be cert'd they must have a centric ring but does that ring need to be hubcentric with the wheels that you have (At time of cert)? Reason I ask is becaus ethese wheels turned out to be 42p, and the inner lip runs pretty close to the strut (~5mm). Would probably be sweet with semi-stretched tires but not sure how keen I am for this. So was thinking as the car will be getting a cert anyway I may just just run 15-20mm spacers to push them out a bit more. Only issue then is fouling tyres on guards etc which would either mean smaller spacers, stretched tyres or flares/lipped guards.

how are guards originally held on, should be sweet/use rivnuts. Which is in better condition/have reg etc?

Nearly forgot, was dummy fitting up the SSR wheels and its seems they have a larger centre bore than the previous wheels that fit snuggly over the centric ring. The ring is about 54mm, but on the new wheels the hole is about 64mm. New wheels on car Old wheels Shit photos but you should be able to see what I mean, are there any issues with this? Theres about 5mm clear space around the centric ring.

... of front tuggedness This may or may not be to most people's tastes but thought I would slam it up here for those that are interested. So car is a 1986 Toyota Corolla Liftback (5 door). Featuring 2e 1300cc econoplant. Originally purchased new by my parents in '86, it became mine, then I gave it to my sister, but when I wanted a car to fool around with I took it back. So high school saw many trips to pick-a-part without much of a clue to pick up odds and ends that were broken. When I got it back form my sister she had destroyed the clutch (that was pretty much shagged from skids anyway) so I figured I would change the clutch and use it as a cheap daily - my other car is a falcon wagon. Decided to have a look for surface rust etc while doing the clutch and found that after being rear ended three times and just tugged back into place that the rust had set in well. So it will need more of a fix. Not sure if I will attack this myself or pay someone as it looks beyond my limited panelwork and welding capabilities. So instead of just changing the clutch I decided I would get into doing it up, so have been saving and buying parts as I go, including 3 donor cars. First things first, the doors were shagged so I purchased another liftback and swapped the doors and trim etc over, plus added the consoles that mine was missing (low spec model). Then a damaged fxgt came up that had a smallport transplanted for cheap so I snapped that up and came up with the idea of shifting the drivers side engine mount forward 50mm and drop in the smallport. This fxgt was auto though so it was going to mean getting the manual conversion elsewhere. Also shocks on this are nearnew so will be swapping them over, they also have king's superlows on them which is a bit of a fail but should at least get it slammed. Then being an idiot I thought I would collect some 20V Silvertop parts and engines and use them. Of course that was an epic fail as I soon realised I needed more bits and bobs to actually make it work. Luckily I got the engines cheap and parted them out for a profit. Then an AE111 BZG came up on trademe cheap (deregd) so I snapped that up and now will use the 4age Blacktop. Originally (when I was still dreaming) I had planned to turbo the blacktop but now I have pretty much decided against it, as the car only weighs ~950kg a N/A thats tweaked a bit should be more than enough for shenanigans. The only thing I need now is an lsd (and some welding and fabrication skills) and its a matter of swapping in all the EFi bits and pieces and a shitload of wiring. Of course I have spent more time buying less than necessary bits for it and less time actually working on it. Mainly because I have been stripping parts off the donor cars and making my money back on them, and raise funds to buy goodies. Anyway pics at last for those who care. 2e in all its glory Liftback donor car FXGT donor car BZG with blacktop motor Watanabe '8-hole' that my mrs outbid FLWLES on Details sent through to me from Watanabe USA - I was trying to find out what they were SSR Type X wheels I bought - they weight 3.8kg apparently without tyres. FOHA front lip as fitted to some of the prefacelift NZ corolla GT's. Gots some rear louvres just to see if they suit it or not No decent photos of the actual car yet as its still in the garage on jacks and got no room to get a decent shot. So yeah thats it so far, haven;t got as much done on it as I had hoped this year as I have dislocated my shoulder three times and my collarbone where it connects to the sternum, so haven't been able to get into it. Got surgery in a few weeks too so won't be moving very fast. Really want to get this done so that I can start working on my premier and land rover. I have an image in my head to work towards in terms of exterior styling etc, should be quite tasteful, will see how it pans out.

out of interest where are you? south auckland or something

in car fuses normally in drivers side kick panel, if thats what you mean

Have decided to keep road bike as is and get another bike to use as a fixie, really need a smaller frame to pull off the elevated seat. So I was looking at this, it doesn't truly have horizontal dropouts, apparently they are about 3/4" and on an angle. Upside down pic of rear derailleur: Reckon that would have enough room for chain adjustment?

haha, def won't be fluro yellow, am semi keen to throw some sort of colour at them though, just depends what I end up painting my corolla like.

just had a quick browse through and noticed these wheels: Think they are the same as what I have sitting in the garage: Have you kept them? I am thinking about getting them stripped and powder coated. Semi-pointless post, Oh and weird @ tyre bulge, was that related to the accident or did it just decide to do that on its own?

Saw an old BSA with sidecar today and thought of this thread, how does the sump theory apply to bikes with sidecars when cornering? (in particular sidecar racers, as the BSA wasn't generating many G's when going around the corner )

will the pump not maintain original pressure and so as velocity pressure has decreased static will increase?

static pressure that is but yeah same volume flow rate, lower velocity. kinda hard to say whether it will be an issue or not without knowing what pump/flow/original pipe size was.

That vht stuff work alright? would you be confident of using it on seats without it rubbing off?

slam makes the difference

Mean thanks, should have just PM'd you lol