Bling

Cheers, sounds like a plan. Something to use up the part bottles of oil with.

Rust in A pillar under screen reminds me of mine. Can only see so much in photo, but I imagine that's a window out job. Rust is fun! As for fixing now vs later, i'd do now so it can't get any worse and potentially pop the screen.

What do people do with engines that will sit for a while. I'll have a mostly stripped engine that I plan to leave in the shed. Do you add more cheap oil? Oil in the cylinders? Blow out all the coolant lines? I could google, but you lot will have engines under your benches, so what do you do with them.

I wouldn't want to rely on a typo for any mods. I'd start by calling up NZTA without providing them any info on the car itself, but question the situation.

Pretty pathetic update this one, but figured i'd post it to keep things going in here. Drove down to Timaru to pick up a spare 3AU. Such a boring road with all of the people trying to become statistics. Current plan is to potentially swap the carb from the spare engine into the car as it may be easier than fixing what is currently breaking my balls on the current carb. The rest of the engine will be wrapped up as a bare engine, with spares like alternator stored in garage to prevent rust, which my shed seems to grow. Spare engine has always been on my want list. Running two of them, I figure it makes sense to have a backup. It's out of an AE85, so i'm not sure if that changes much, but some of the carb numbers seemed to match up. So it's mostly likely all the same shit with maybe a few small variances. Only one photo as I don't want to put people through excessive boat anchor exposure. After loading and unloading it, I can see why they do make such good anchors though. Excuse the blur, I had just taken the skin off the knuckle of my thumb with a really greasy part of the engine. Apart from that, not much has happened. My cert still isn't live as certifier, for some reason, won't finish my paperwork and send it in. I mean it's only been 10+ weeks now, with xmas break. So perhaps i'm just expecting too much. Three times the paperwork has been nearly finished and was going to be sent in shortly. I've never once been contacted in regards to any delays, i've had to chase each time to see where things are at. So yeah, no WOF, no driving it for most of summer and all that boring stuff people tend to do with road legal cars. Not much I can do though, just eat up the shit sandwich. Certainly sours the whole cert process. As you can see, i'm passed the point of expecting much to happen anytime soon.

Is it a typo or did it get modified at factory for that rating? Mainly asking out of interest I guess. Is it common?

I laughed a bit too much at this, even heard him say it.

Plenty of people on here look after their rides enough that a clean sheet on an old car isn't a challenge at all.

Pro tip, fix problems before WOF. If they have to write a short story to list the failures from inspection, you're in for a bad time. I doubt the rust rules have changed that much over time. People just tend to get hurt feelings more these days.

Not sure what the situation is, but could you "tee in" a petrol water pump? Might be cheaper, might also be useless for your situation.

Still waiting to get my car on the road. But that's a sweeeeet drive for sure, keen for a future one.

Chamberlains in town (CHC). Pop in and show them what you want to achieve. None of the methods you suggest, reset / cut are good ones. You can make custom springs, I forget the info you need to provide them, but it's a couple of details, then they design a spring to suit. They can likely source replacement shock inserts to match. By match I mean people tend to put whatever fits in and hope for the best spring / shock being matched well. You can often get lowering springs made up to give a 25mm drop (big generalisation) that will work with stock shock length inserts and be captive. So put the new springs in and job done, after alignment etc. Have done that on a couple of cars, pretty easy. Cert wise, i'm going to leave that bit. You can check the VIRM and LVVTA online PDF's to see what does and doesn't trigger a cert being needed.

They don't seem like suitable tyres for a 15x8" rim.

Just get wheels that fit with the car without needing to mess with the alignment? 15x8 down to 13" mags is one extreme to the other, i'm sure you can find middle ground. If it's stock otherwise then 13's probably look good on it.

Handy to have a tube of that in the toolbox for sure. Even more handy if you have to pull the bits off later as you forgot a part...

My guess was they just didn't bother cleaning out the original oil when swapping shocks. I never knew about adding fluid in there for cooling though! Learn something every day. I'm sure it will handle a lot nicer when new shocks go in either way.

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-DFR7-Super-Range-Detection/dp/B01C0B0RWC Would need to do homework to check frequencies are the same, could possibly be different. I haven't checked warranty details.

How old is it? I have one in my garage that is super old and only has 2 cores, even loading youtube up gives it a heart attack. As Goat says, SSD can make a big difference, even if the rest is old as fuck, it makes things a lot quicker in general. Can only flog a horse so much though. Grabbing an ex lease laptops are pretty cheap and if your laptop is 4-5 years old, it's what i'd do. Every few years the mrs complains her laptop is slow, so I buy her another ex lease one, rinse and repeat. Usually costs ~$300 to replace.

Buy a spare hatch or buy bulk stickers to reapply when pulled up.

Is that question linked to your previous post? Lack of gas? Can't comment on AKL, but in CHCH I found test was as easy as getting a refill.

Something along the lines of this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing/3938823388?gclid=CjwKCAiA8OmdBhAgEiwAShr404poXUojJ0bFO-4SOBcAvDdQX2Y4wLddQWoC8ZZxzi7NSdnqjUdC9xoCyFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You have to admit it's a money grab though. One that they can do because if you don't pay it, your cars dead. You just have to hope if you lose yours, it's one that the locksmiths can sell and program for MUCH less. People shouldn't be held to ransom because of what they drive. That's my view anyway. It's not a problem for people with money. But plenty would be parking it up and taking the bus for the cost to replace a cheap remote for $$$. I don't know which brands / models locksmiths cover, but it's sure a mix of euro and not.

I would love to, but things are rather hectic at the moment. Just remembered I was supposed to send you photos... yeah that hectic! I'll do so one day I swear.

The pros must be on holiday enjoying themselves... so i'll chime in and say it may depend on the epoxy we are talking about. They should have info for top coating and the likes in the spec sheets. Usually give you windows to complete each step sort of thing. Whenever i've used it, it's been kept inside so I can't personally comment. It tends to be a pretty tough finish though.

Yeah me too haha. Will add some progress pics as I play around with it. The passenger side panel is going to be more challenging due to shape. So best I get some speakers so I have the right size to work to.