Bling

I thought they got rid of the 3M range and now just roll Septone stuff. If you don't want stuff from a dedicated paint shop, i'm sure Septone will do the job. I don't think it will make a difference to the end result in this case.

jif doesn't scratch plastic?

Shit that's not bad, not many 14 year olds own a KE30 and a KP starlet...

You want people to help you, but you are not willing to read the advice they give. Do you really want help or not? If you do, go find your other thread and read what people said. Spencer gave you an explanation on what to do. If you can't follow what he said, then painting is not for you i'm afraid.

Is it not easy to remove it from the circuit to see if that stops the draining? Then test it on the bench?

My money would be on genuine for sure.

Good write up! Where have you found to be the best(value) places to get materials?

Don't we all?

I assume he is just being super orgainsed.

Yeah the last bits are the 5% i've yet to sort. Solvents will likely remove that. Good to know both the above options work. Will get rid of that 5% and go from there. Did most of the work with it on a spit, but the quakes put me on edge so I took it off that and put it on a more solid base.

Razorblade might work. try on a non obvious spot first. Have used one to remove tints from windows before. I'm assuming glass headlights.

Can't make Jan, will try make Feb

Ah, a bit more info. It's been stripped of 95% of the under seal on the underside. Only areas I haven't done are the inside of the guards. It's currently setup like this: http://iforce.co.nz/i/nevxnyvq.a3a.jpg I haven't bare metalled it however, but have it at this stage: http://iforce.co.nz/i/1t3btr2t.dfc.jpg I originally stripped it all back so I knew what I was looking at. It was dirty and the underseal was original and not in the best condition. I have a couple of big tins of underseal ready to roll lol. Rust wise, there is relatively little in the floor area. So my plan was to rough it up and basically seal both sides with paint. The top side would just be left as paint as will all be covered with carpet. The underside I wasn't sure if I should just do patches of por15 where it's bare metal and underseal the whole lot. Or por15 the whole underside, then underseal to add protection on top of that. Open to your ideas though. Bascially just want to protect it from the atmosphere as best I can. Rust wise there is piss all really (in the floor / underside) so I was just going to cut out what little there was, patch that, then coat the whole lot. If there is something else I should be painting on better suited, then i'm happy enough to change plans.

I want to prep the underside of my car and the floor for painting. What is the best thing to use to rough it up a bit? I was thinking something along the lines of scotchbrite pads / some of those flexible sanding blocks you can get. Not much of it's flat, so I want to use something flexible. Suggestions? Surface is going to get prepped, then metal ready where needed, cleaned up, then por15 followed by a scuff and underseal.

A course would be handy. However, if you watch enough you-tube videos and take the time to practice not needed. Just talking about light diy type welding anyway. If there were night courses for welding locally to me i'd probably do them as it gives you a quick step up on the learning process. Wasn't any though so I just read online, watched videos etc. Then I just played with the welder settings to see what affect each had on the weld. Compared to mig and arc welding when I gave tig a quite try I found it by far the hardest to get used to.

Have used a trimmed plug in the past (illegal) but now run it properly with a dedicated higher amp plug. Didn't cost much to get wired up via a mate. Are you sure about the amps on the plug you have?

I knew I was forgetting something ^^^ I removed the console but didn't remove the shifter, but that could make life easier.

I'm no mechanic, and it's been a while since I did one, so there will likely be steps missing. Also, this is not likely the best method but was how I did it the first time. I removed the drive shaft from the diff end, and pulled it out of the gearbox. I then discovered that the oil pisses out of the gearbox at this point. So have the oil pan handy and let the oil drain from the tail end of the gearbox. I'm pretty sure I then undid all the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine. Carefully check right around the area where it bolts to the engine. If there is any dirt / grease on it, there may be a bolt hidden there. Make sure the speedo cable is already removed along with any wiring that may be present. The box / engine shouldn't move. Then I think I would have put a jack under the back section of the engine near the gearbox. Jack it up ever so slightly to take some weight off the gearbox mount. Then unbolt the gearbox mount from the bottom of the car. Then gearbox may or not not fall out at this point, so just do things slowly and carefully. If nothing falls out, then that's good. Slowly lower the jack. It should (bad memory here) when lowered, tilt backwards which will lower the gearbox to a point where you can slide it off the engine. You will just have to lower the jack enough so the top of the gearbox housing will clear the firewall when it's taken off the engine. The shaft on the gearbox might be something like 100-150mm long, so allow for that much space before trying to slide if off. With the engine supported, it should slide off easy enough. The gearboxes aren't THAT heavy from memory. So it shouldn't be too hard to do by yourself. Safety first though, getting a hand for the last step could be handy. You'll just have to catch it. I may have missed something crucial, but someone will point that out. Tools needed at a guess: Axle stands to hold the front end up - safety first, wheels sitting under sills for extra safety points. Probably not required in less earthquake prone areas. Oil pan A few spanners somewhere in the 14-17mm range for getting it unbolted from engine 1/2" socket set with similar sized sockets, to drop the gearbox mount from the car Can't really think of much else.

+1 for legit job done. Can't wait to see what's lurking haha

Do a skid! Good read, keen to see how the fine tuning goes next year.

Will look into the above suggestions and get something sussed cheers.

It's for the areas you don't paint AFAIK. Like the insides of doors / panels are often done in the factory. Inhibits corrosion. I want to do inside of my sills and other similar areas that water can get into and just sit. But it's not practical to paint etc. I was in Spray Store today getting marine clean and metal ready but completely forgot to ask about wax >_<

Forgot to ask.... what are good cavity wax products? Wanting to do inside chassis rails, inside sills etc after i've painted the underside. Prefer something that doesn't smell like fish / isn't super spendy. I assume it's a good idea to put it anywhere rust may want to live?

I've got tins of por15 in the cupboard that are years old. Glad wrap over the tin, then bash the lid on, seems to do the trick. Also have multiple colours of hammerite, so many old car related paints...

That's some nice work! Currently top of the "to call" list, cheers