Bling

Pretty detailed video that may be of use.

Suspension looks good. Might want to check with your certifier about the amount of shock that needs to be threaded into the strut, pretty sure it's 50mm as per your manual. May have been thread diameter too though... been a while since I crossed that bridge. Just handy to know as that will drop you another 20mm.

I think we can comment in here? (mod can delete if not, seems the go though). That thing has come up MINT! Gotta be better than new now. Anyone that even mentions chequebook isn't someone worth talking to. They clearly don't understand what it's like to have no time to complete such a project. So I wouldn't let any potential haters worry you. Getting that bike back on the road and immaculate, is a million times better than it sitting in a shed getting no love. Well played, awesome bike.

Could depend how much distance you need from the ball to the flat section. Could cut a flat bit of plate so it's a nice tight fit around the shaft below the ball. A U shape piece, if the thickness allowed, that might be strong enough to be the tongue. Could always weld more plate on the sides under the plate when installed and rack is level. Could still slip it off when not in use. But when in use it uses the force of the bolts to hold it all together. Shouldn't be able to move as it will be jammed against the whole diameter of the bar. I have a similar, but not quite as bad problem. The tongue on mine is minimal around the back of the ball. So if my rack doesn't work i'm just going to make a small metal plate in a donut shape and bolt it between the ball and tongue. Same sort of solution to the above, but my plate won't need to be as thick as it's supported.

Probably not. You'll probably find they all go by the LVVTA spec as nothing for them to gain by saying yeah stretch our tyres and we'll take responsibility if you stack it. Too many numpities took stretch too far so now it's tightened up. Any old documents that did exist are probably no longer valid. Why even worry? You don't seem too worried about suspension working properly so just run the tyres you want and deal with any issues that may or may not occur lol. This should still be current: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_Tyre_Size_to_Rim_Width_Compatibility_Guide.pdf The above table is also referenced in the WOF VIRM, so can be a fail if the inspector is looking.

I don't know Sierra, but know that in my car, if you do that conversion you need to strengthen both the bottom mount and shock tower. From memory anyway. Correct that shit ain't made to work like that. Not on the road anyway, if it's race car then anything probably goes.

Check what TGP hoses are worth, from memory not bad. If available anyway. edit: amayama doesn't look bad, $14US for a front, picked random KP so YMMV.

Whip the wheel off and put your eyeballs on it.

Butler Auto probably has what you need, just have to go through the online shop and check all the listings for something that suits. Worked for me anyway, they seemed to have every combo in every size.

Whoever does the VIN stuff can take it off and document can't they? Then refit when all finished. Not sure what that costs / if anything, but could remove future you problems. At least a motorbike is easy to cart in to get that done. Would really piss in your cereal if you fucked it while trying to remove it yourself. However unlikely. At least if they fuck it, it's by the book so should be sweet. /edit more posts loaded after this, tortron covered my post.

I can't really give you the right answer to that. I'm not sure of the rules of using bumpstops that aren't OEM. If you never plan to run the factory bumpstops as they are again, trim them and make them look factory and hope for the best. Mine are trimmed and tapered but are also covered by my cert so different story. But one option is free and the other involves buying non OEM units. So i'd go with free and hope for the best. As as been mentioned, not legal without cert, but purely posting an opinion not a written guarantee it's a good idea in your case lol. If the factory ones fit currently you could just put them back in for check then do as you wish after. I'm not sure how picky they will be, unless it's low enough that factory bumpstops have the ute resting on them.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Suspension_Systems.pdf Try that link, has a bit of info for your stuff. When you say 10mm, is that bumpstop size? If so that won't fly, I think they had a newsletter that featured super short "stops" that aren't actually designed for replacing tapered / dampening bumpstops.

I wouldn't cert a car for the sake of bumpstops. Once certed, you're stuck with those wheels, cert width tyres, that height give or take 5%, along with most other parts not able to be changed. How much suspension travel do you have now? Like how much can the wheels droop if you jack the chassis. How much does the suspension compress when fully loaded. Rear of my car has 60mm of compression along. Looking at your project pics, is there a void above the wheels for them to compress into? Or if you loaded it up it would sit on the cut bumpstops straight away.

Be interesting to know if they tested the tacho etc. Is the signal from the engine known good? Digital dash is so sweet!

Different sidewall strength / stiffness would be part of it i'd say. Best to call up tyre manufacturers and ask if you need to know proper though.

Put it back to stock and live happily ever after. You'd potentially find that it can't even be certed as you have modified it anyway as you need to have a working suspension system with acceptable suspension travel to pass cert.

Purely for a looks point of view, second is less in your face / better vision. I'd just wonder where the device goes in image two if the pillar bag goes off. Unless it's some povo vehicle without them / probably standard now. Not sure i'd go to war over it, neither really obstruct the view. If they do might just need a booster cushion Used to have my GPS unit / dashcam on middle line of screen similar to first image. Seating position was quite high though so never obstructed my view. That being said, I would have to remove them for WOF. But the dashcam saved me a few times so a hassle worth doing.

My urethane tube was dried up and the plumbers stuff didn't work, like not even a little. Quite surprising but that's plastic for you.

Do you recall the type of plastic your surround was? I assume all in that era would be the same deal. It's kick panels so seems the same as surround. I'll check on the backside when I get a chance as it likely says. I know the plastics will be different as I'm gluing PLA to it. I'll try a couple of glues if J-B can't handle it. But may just end up joining them with small brackets melted into each part as the join. Cheers.

Sweet cheers, will have a browse.

Good glue options for sticking plastics to old car interior plastics? Think 80's Toyota plastics. My epoxy clear glue dried out so before buying something new, keen to see if people have good experiences with certain products.

Your guitars are a bit bigger than the ones I've been making lol. Approx 220mm lengths for guitar / star mad toddler.

try here: https://palmside.co.nz/

At this point i'd probably just kill it with fire. What the actual fuck.

When were the plugs last done, if the service history is good?