Bling

https://www.springs.co.nz/ springs to mind as people that would know what to use, potentially have it in stock /be able to source. /no pun

In for a weeknight burger in my face hole meet.

Extreme then? I'll have to pop in next time I need bits. Busted in a modern car, the shame.

Spotted in the flesh today, even better. Looks great with the hubbies.

To quote Clint So that is probably a good place to start. For context, start reading here: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/17433-for-questions-regarding-wofscertsnumber-plates/page/327/ While there are some rules with little leeway, your best bet is to touch base with the certifier too. Saves going down the wrong track.

The paint will still be on the outside, no matter which rim you place it on. That's how asymmetric tyres work. I'd probably lean towards tyre black or a sand with some fine sand paper. can't be any worse than scuffing a tyre on a curb which doesn't seem to affect them?

Imagine this sort of top design, with a thin angled tube on the underside. I broke my spoiler somehow, contents within.

Will let you know if I have success

I need to repair a tail light, remake fender mirror bases and indicator lenses would be a bonus at some point. Keen to see what people make in here. Cheapest taillight i've found was $250 + shipping from Japan, probably worse now due to exchange rate and shipping. Yeah I think i'll learn how to mold things... Will be sure to post up any progress with products used. Would be good to see other people doing so too. Saves buying crappy products if someone has used it with bad results etc. What sort of resin would you go with for fender mirror bases? I was looking to make a two piece mold, somehow, and make a few spares as I need two of each side. Might be able to sell a couple to recoup some of the manufacture costs.

Will be interesting to see how many people get pulled up for lack of droop. So many cars out there are so low that they must have next to no droop. Everyone will have to swap out their chopped springs @ WOF time. Slash they probably already have mail order WOFs.

Thresholds are different between unmodified cars and modified ones, in general. Cert allows you to go above and beyond what you can without one. However, once you go that way, the car needs to stay in that configuration. Just because cars are converted auto to manual, and not picked up by WOF inspectors as needing a cert, doesn't mean they don't need one. Joe Bloggs can potentially using any brake pedal and the odds of it being picked up at WOF time are slim. Zero testing will have been done on that part, to know it's actually suitable. Cert means everything has been checked over carefully and is compliant. Any change at that point has the potential to affect other areas. Yeah I agree on the trans swap needing a cert, to using the current trendy term, too many diddle fingers out there doing the work.

Can get the discs overseas by the looks, just not cheap. Only had a quick look, so quite possibly more options. https://www.mevspares.co.uk/FRONT-BRAKE-DISCS-x2-Ford-Zephyr-Zodiac-and-Consul-Mk2-Mk3-Sep-1960-66.html That said if you plan to repower it later, you may upgrade the brakes so a skim could last you till then.

Might have to spend some time with the Brembo (or similar) rotor catalog. If lucky, you might find some that just need the diameter machining down or similar. What sort of size are they? Do they share brakes with any other models that you know of?

What about lead solder? Not hard enough?

I stepped on brake with the vehicle in 5th for a fellow OS'er, seemed to work a treat. If handbrake is enough, then you should be sorted for DIY, could chock wheels / tie it to a post, worse case.

Fully height adjustable stuff is way betterer IMO. If front and rear are shock body adjustable you can change height without affecting shock travel.

With the coilover rear you may need to modify the bottom mounting point too for weight loading. The Gecko stuff does look the same as the rest in that price range. Ideally you'll want to pick spring rates and have the shocks valved to suit. Gives you better ride quality and easier to get the droop/bump requirements covered. Not sure what options there are for your platform though. I run divorced setup in the rear which I did so that I didn't need to modify the car. If you're happy to get those mods done to strengthen it up, then it could well be a good option. Can at least run keeper springs in a coilover setup, if needed. Depends how low you want to go too really. Rear is easy as you can potentially go for custom springs and shorter shocks. Just have to do lots of maths to work out spring specs to suit height / spring rate you want. Can get shocks valved to suit. Swift springs seem to be well reviewed. Can get them for coilovers too. Can pick spring rates, spring length etc. Such a big topic, will leave it at that for now. I spent hours on the calculator working out spring rates vs height vs droop etc.

What are you wanting to achieve? There is a bigport intake flange DXF CAD image here, which is one of the CAD files in the download section on the forum (linked at top): You can download free viewers to be able to look at it. A quick look suggests 38mm between the 4 (joined?) ports. Take a look for yourself anyway and see if it covers what you need.

Something to keep in mind is you need a minimum 40mm suspension droop and bump. Starts getting hard the lower you go as you have to get pretty specific with spring rates used vs car weight, to keep that travel. Also comes down to budget. I am almost at the right bump/droop figure with my setup, and because front and rear are adjustable platform height, changing ride height doesn't affect those figures. It just changes steering geometry / bump steer which is also measured come cert time. To quote Cletus

Probably a form at the post shop to get that sorted.

Impressive stuff. You even got props from Billzilla! Haven't seen that name in years.

So nice man, so so good. I need that paint job on mine haha.

Are you sure where it pitted wasn't tiny bits of rust? Even after a grind down you'd likely have dots below finished surface. I've found that sort of stuff goes for the easy stuff first. I've dunked bits in that are 100% legit in areas and rusty in others. The legit bit doesn't even get touched, but it will eventually work it's way down into the pits a layer of rust at a time.

It can take a few treatments. I have had pretty good experience with similar products. Deep pits will take more time for sure. When I have big areas I just keep brushing it on to keep it wet while doing other jobs. Have used it on some pretty serious rust, but works better if it's only having to dissolve small thicknesses. Except for small parts that will be consistently wet (totally submerged) I haven't left parts with it on overnight, results would be patchy as most of it would dry. How was the condition of the material before treatment?