Bling

Put the waterpump on engine today, turns out the metal bypass pipe is too short as the original waterpump potentially had a metal step or something (long since rusted away). Found a bit of galv pipe, and extended it, banged it all together and will see how it seals tomorrow. What a nightmare. I have a feeling it's 1-2mm too short and not putting big pressure on the o-rings that fit down the recesses. Replacing the whole pump is biting me in the arse. If that doesn't work I may just epoxy some stubs in and put a rubber hose between the points. Only just thought of that right now... fuck. So mad right now. Cars.

Looks good man, quite a bit of work involved in that! What product you converting the rust with down the pillars?

Sweet thanks for the info team. Will grab some rubber grease and hylomar blue tomorrow.

Would you replace camshaft and crank seals if they look perfectly fine? Recall some seals can be a bitch and actually start leaking after being replaced. I have all the seals in the kit, but worth asking.

Water pump tech question: (3AU) What is the go to with sealing them. It came with a bunch of gaskets which is fine, I assume just slap those on as is. But it also has an o-ring that sits against the block, with no obvious slot to hold it in place. Is tossing that to the side and just liquid gasketing the water pump to the block going to work? I also have a bypass pipe which has two o-rings that fit inside cut outs. Should I goo the o-rings and fit the pipe in, or just run o-rings? New bypass pipe will be NLA, like most other bits were, so it's all RockAuto supplied. So I have sanded all the corrosion off the pipe and it's actually solid, so not too worried about getting a new bit of pipe. With the gasket goo, do you put it on and tighten it all the way home or leave it a while before tightening it all the way? N00b questions I know, but giving it a go because can't move car and what could possibly go wrong? I never bothered doing it on other car, just had mechanic do it as it was so much easier. He no longer mechanics, so here we are. Cambelt is after this, and it didn't come with a tension spring to attach to the tensioner, so will have to find one of those. Apart from that, RockAuto supplied to rest. Couldn't work out why the pump wouldn't come off. Factory manual only shows replacing the front half of the pump, doh. Looks like just the front half is typically replaced. Which makes sense as mother of god, disconnecting the pipe under the headers, from the back of the waterpump is a nightmare for an amateur. That connection has some wierdo metalish gasket with a rib on it. Is it all good to goo the lot or nah? It's in far from new condition, so i'll be prepping the surfaces as best I can. Just not sure if it's like exhaust gaskets where gooing them can be better than just using gaskets alone. Any help is welcomed, chur.

Probably not to be honest

Yeah could well be actually, i'm willing to take the chance when it's $90 cheaper with shipping. If it breaks, we fix it, with have the technology. Sheepers can probably fab one up to put them both to shame anyway.

You have me convinced, can get them for $55 delivered here https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing-2536401264.htm?rsqid=ce804657b5744d91b11083a2d3c0e32a-001 haven't used it so not a recommendation as such. Same price as AliExpress without the super long current wait. Posting incase Sheepers wants one / doesn't have one. Sounds like a right cnut of a problem, hope you suss it soon!

Just because you can legally cut and shut a towbar, doesn't mean you should

Depends what you use it for. Bike rack, maybe it would be ok. Proper towing, sounds like a bad idea. Would be better off getting one made for your car IMO. 2c

Next meet this Sunday, phone playing up so can't copy paste the info.

Is that supposed to be the shaft diameter? Can't caliper it? Failing that you can probably cross reference the genuine part numbers on one of those ToyoDIY.com sites with the frame number / details. Odd they would have different options as the engine weight difference would be marginal really. Unless they are confusing superstrut options or sway bar diameter lol.

Double check junkmail, I have a feeling I had one email end up there from the store.

Ah I see, I didn't notice the hubs had already been machined, that's a bummer! Currently going though similar brake related issues with LCA and bump steer problems to resolve. Good times.

What is actually hitting? If you can't machine the hub, can you machine what is hitting it?

How often do you check your VIN? Exactly.

Just use the 8kg and 10kg figures? 8kg / 10kg needed to compress spring 1mm, at least that is the theory i'm working with. Assuming your spring rates are linear anyway. I have linear up front and progressive in the rear, so I don't think I can accurately work out the rear drop due to changing spring rate as weight is applied. What brand shock setup are you using? Do they do a shorter shock option? If i'm reading what you are saying right, it sounds like even if you get a spring rate combo that works, the shock will bottom? In order to get the car low enough with a lower spring rate, it may bottom out under load right? 10kg is pretty intense. Keep in mind you need 40mm droop and compression from ride hide (for cert at least). Using the above theory you'll need 400kg on each front corner in order to get that droop when car is jacked. The coilover pics in your build thread aren't working, but if they are BC i'm not sure if shorter shocks are available or not. It could help solve some problems though.

Probably don't make that size then? 14" tyre options are pretty shit in general when looking at 7.5". Especially in odd ball sizes and if wanting something decent. https://www.falken.com.au/tyres/ you can select the tyre, then it lists sizes available and rim width compatibility. I imagine they all have similar setups. Odds are pretty slim though, as they probably don't test 14x7.5" rims often if at all. Basically why I ended up going with 15's, my 14x7.5's were a ballache to make work.

You forgot to name the garage.

Can you request a bit of cooler weather please? I'll probably just try check out the cars on the Friday before cruise in that case. So long as I don't eat too much in Arrowtown.

Business use type vehicle, well at least more often than MA standard car? Only reason I can think of.

Do people park up somewhere after that?

Will see what pans out in this here Fred, happy to sit somewhere and watch all the cars cruise past. Thanks for offer of ute drive though, bit more period correct than the Blade i'll be commuting down in.

Registering interest.

I'm down for Smashmouth show and some other unknown bands, so as per every year miss the car show. If there are any other OS meets happening outside of Saturday though i'd be keen.