flyingbrick

Yeah that's epic. Don't worry about minor flaws! It is hand made after all! My bits anyways have a few spots where the weave has been high and iv rubbed through to the layer below. I actually like it, keeps it honest.

Kinda sounds like your bits of cf were too large? I mean, you could chop it up real small, mix it with resin in a cup and then kinda spoon it in

yeah that is honestly the best way if its possible. A 10mm radius would do wonders for how that turns out. Also, don't cut the CF too close to the edges as the over-hanging material adds valuable weight to pull the material around. your plug looks great so far! Don't bother getting the finish too perfect because its largely irrelevant to how the outside visible face will look. Just make sure you wax and PVA it more than you think you need to. Edit. Fuck you, roman.

OH!, actually. Two things. Firstly, that dimmer circuit should be the first thing to check. If it is faulty then just remove it and join the door switched wires to the interior lamp so they just turn on/off as per normal. secondly, its possible that the dimmer unit is always on with 6v being pulled across the lamp but at very low amps. Dont quote me on any of this, because I really have no idea what im talking about. Maintenance chargers are the best thing ever. Seriously under rated bits of kit.

Have some pieces of plastic (cut up big black sack would likely work) and have them handy while you lay the CF. With sharp corners like this, you may have difficulty getting the CF to stay flat on the surface. If this is the face, push plastic on top and squeegee out the air. You'll find it works really well to keep it all sucked down tight.

It does look good with the bags on.

The more I think about logistics, the worse this idea seems.

It has a dimmer on the interior light?

look at it this way- If you smash the guard I make then I'll fix the reason it failed in version 2.0. This will be a freebie btw. You and the rest of oldschool have been great (Especially recently, shits been amazing) so good to give back Edit. FYI, I smashed my ktm's wind shield. I'm 100% okay with this because it put the strength into context for me. Now I know what it took to make it fail, how it failed and how to fix it so it doesn't happen again. So in conclusion, give me a spare front guard so I can make a mold

Good work man, that guard looks soooooo much better now. Can't believe the weight of that old tail light .I can't even get my head around it. This might be obvious from my posts here and on YT but I really like this project and your approach. It is such a perfect bike for weight reduction because the factory didnt pay any attention to it. Easy to make relatively huge gains, love it. I do think you should let me make you a new front guard tho.

Omg, those indicators lol. They look wider than the bars.

Mate you could have made a carbon fibre one for a third of that weight.

Yeah Cardboard will be useless. Resin will make it soggy and it will yield from the weight pretty easily. Highly suggest really thin MDF and foamboard from craft places (spotlight has it, the warehouse might too, its great, foam board is super easy to cut and sand) Also, cheap resin, mixing resin in incorrect ratios and using the wrong hardener (fast hardener on a hot day) can make the part warp and sink very badly - this is even worse if the form is flimsy.

Well I hope if there's any dodgy bits she ends up in the design disasters thread Cool car man, love it

You could fit an E-bike hub to the front wheel, use it for when extra acceleration is required. Like some kind of direct drive E supercharger.

Love my sign thanks mate! I haven't seen it in person yet but the office lady phoned me and asked if she should open it because it looked damaged in transit. Workmate said it was gold as she HATES the c word.

Ummn.. How you do the calc? Because I can't get an output that makes sense. 77mm stroke and 9500rpm? Edit, I get 1,462,893...... Edit. Because a 535 BMW diesel has a mean piston speed of 889,101mm/min.. @Guypie your numbers all seem too low?

Yeah there's two trains of thought, one is the old school slow break in method, the other is GIVE IT Heaps so that the rings wear in properly before the cross hatching has gone. Most people who know anything now seem to go with the GIVE IT Heaps method. Anyway, richen it up a bit to keep things cooler maybe?

We are totally on the same page. I just trying to figure out sohc's logic

How does break in for 100km prevent these issues? Are you saying pistons and bores wear a measurable amount? Genuine question.

Every gn 125 ever made has been pinned at full throttle for extended periods. Every small bike has.

Next time get cylinder sized properly to piston /double checked AND run a little 2t oil in the fuel?

Does a gn250 drive train fit into this? Most people would give a nut to have a big block engine that bolts in- if it's that easy for you then I say you'd be silly not to. Might not be as much Internet points as modifying the 125 but you won't care once on the road and literally doing hunnits everywhere.

Wife's dad had one for a while. She has memories of them leaving Hamilton for Auckland but only making it to Huntley before breaking down. Lol