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Vintage Grumble

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Everything posted by Vintage Grumble

  1. I think I know what you mean. I was considering adding in triangulation like this or similar, Most of the weight in the SXS is probably just in front of the rear tyres.
  2. So work is slow, and I haven't bored the tits off you in a while, so rubbish update time. I think I've done three day long outings in the YXZ with no real issues, which sort of amazes me, because fuck it gets a hell of a hard time. At one track the rear sway bar nuts kept coming loose, so I removed the flat washers under the nuts, and that somehow seemed to solve that issue. Also the hinge bolts on the drivers door came loose, so did those up. The only maintenance I've had to do is change a CV boot and a ball joint boot that were ripped. The ball joint boot was nearly as expensive as a whole ball joint, so I go t a whole unit. I'll get an aftermarket boot at some point so I have a spare ball joint. I also got around to fitting the harnesses (a guy died at one of the rides I was at, so sort of prompted some action). It wasn't too big of a job, just had to remove a few captive nuts so the mountey bit would fit where it needed to go (on the nut side of the mount). These certainly hold you in a LOT better, and have nearly eradicated me having badly bruised shoulder after a hoon. I've also got stuck into trying to finish my trailer. I have finally got the mesh all welded down, which was a cunt of a job. I ground off the galv as best I could on all the welding surfaces (its second hand galv walkway mesh), but it was still a splatter party quite often. Glad I never bothered painting my shed floor, because it would be fucked now. So I built this trailer pretty light, as the original off-roader was probably sub 500kg, but the SXS is 700kg, so I was a bit worried it may not be strong/heavy enough. I bolted it together and put the SXS on it, and using a string line, I checked if it was bending under the weight. It didn't seem to be bending/deflecting under the weight, but I'm still thinking about beefing it up a tad just to be sure. The next problem, was I set up the axle position for the old unit, so I wasn't sure if there was enough tongue weight with the SXS full forward. I didn't have a scale, so decided to grease up the bearings and do up all the nuts & bolts and take it for a spin to see how it towed. No WOF, no REG, No lights, no plate, no worries. I then proceeded to tow it past two highway cops, twice each, but neither noticed/cared. It also towed beautifully, which was both a surprise and a relief. Its also way lighter to tow than the tandem car trailer I normally use, so that's nice. I was a bit worried about the lack of brakes, but it seems to be fine. I have decided I will galvanize it (I originally intended to paint it, hence all the open ends being sealed off) so I need to drill lots of holes, and try think of all the things it may need before I send it away to get stripped N dipped. It will be fucking excellent to finish this thing, seeing as I started building it at the start of the first covid lockdown. Regards, VG.
  3. Damn son, I thought the Jag and yachts was pretty cash, then you whip out the knippex pliers. You have arrived me old china, you have arrived.
  4. So ages ago I got an old mobility scooter, with the intention of convert it into a mini Willy's jeep that my kids can blast around in. The donor vehicle was this beauty, in working condition but with no batts. I borrowed some old batteries from my BIL, but they were well past it, so had to invest in a good set, not sure on the range yet, but it will be decent with a couple of 50ah's in there. I then half assedly rearranged it to have a steering wheel from a ride on, and lowered the seat so the kids could drive it. I also fitted a foot pedal accelerator. It was like this for more than a year or so I guess. Then recently I decided I better actually work on making it into the jeep it was meant to be, before the kids get too old. So I did quite a bit of chassis modification to get the batteries back a bit (mainly so there's room for my feet to fit in) I also fitted new black tyres, as the old fronts were rooted. I then widened the front track 80mm to match the rear, not sure why they made the front skinnier to begin with tbh. Then I started work on repositioning the steering to one side. I used bearings and pressed steel housing I already had, and got a couple of sprockets to reduce the steering speed by half, to make it a bit easier to turn with the smaller steering wheel. The center hub slides to tension the chain. The shitty pressed steel housings didn't like having the leverage of the long steering shaft on them, and bent, so I machined up a hub to replace them, it's mint as now. I then whipped up a crappy temporary floor and seat (not finished in pic) so the kids can drive it while I build the body, which is the next mission. Regards, VG.
  5. Sooooo I purchased this thing 6 years ago, and have never used it. I had the damaged window replaced, and a new zipper put in the front door, put new wheel bearings and seals on both sides, and made the hitch dropper less grot. I also made a new spear wheel mount. If anyone's interested in buying it, slide into my DM's.
  6. I'd love to attend, but life and lack of a bike are a bit of a problem ATM.
  7. Looks like @glen was correct about the old off-roader being a mini sprint. My bro in law just sent me this, front part of the chassis is identical, https://www.trademe.co.nz/4210373987
  8. Ya'll might have to dust off low range on the CT's this year, lololols.
  9. Haha, shit, about 6 months ago I was trying to remember who I had lent that too.
  10. You're going to fill the engine up completely with oil so you don't have to turn it over?
  11. Yeap, those are Stauff branded ones, can get pretty blue ones from Swagelok too, but they probably cost more, because Swagelok.
  12. It's only taken me THREE FUCKING MONTHS, but I've kinda finished the radiator relocation. Step one was to remove the radiator from the front, and all associated piping. I had to cut the piping out, as it must go on the frame early in the assembly process, Then I visualized the future set up for some time, and started making mounts, Then I cut a few holes in things to run the pipes through, and spent fucking ages making the pipes. The factory pipes & hoses are all 7/8, which seemingly no one in NZ stocked stainless 90s and 45s in, so I did all the piping in 1", and reduced it down at the ends to 7/8. I also had to make my own hose tails, because yuck hose size. I then ran the fan wiring to the back, relocated the overflow bottle, and found some new 90 deg hoses. Then painted the mounts and slapped it all together. The piping is only physically mounted to the frame in one spot, in the hope that it doesn't flex and crack it. I still want to make some sides for the radiator, to sort of force air through it, and also add some sort of guard to cover the hoses and radiator cap, to protect the occupants from being sprayed in boiling water if something fails. But I should probably test it all works fine first. Regards, VG.
  13. Would people just fly down and meet their bikes? I assume Mitsy Elliot can only seat 3ppl?
  14. Yes I already have tube for roll cage upgrades, trying to avoid getting squashed.
  15. Oh true, I've not heard of the intake problem. The air intake is between the seats, at about boob height, so in a good place to avoid mud, but I think people not checking/cleaning the pre-filter is a thing, cam imagine they block up fairly easily. And while I'm here, this is the 2019 radiator set up (there is a plastic cover over the top to box it in) And this is one example of a relocation kit. I want to do something similar but with closed in sides and more of an intake to push air through, more like the OEM set up above, Regards, VG.
  16. So I was getting a weird fault with the re-flashed ECU. I'd start it up, and then it would go straight into a transmission fault, and wouldn't select forward or reverse. Thought the ECU was bung, so had a bit of back n forth with the seller, and ended up calling the tuner (Carl Ruiterman) and he had a LOL and knew what was wrong straight away. Their early re-flashes had a weird quirk where you have to give the engine a tiny blip on the throttle at start up, to keep the transmission ECU happy (it doesn't like the little start up rev flare with no wheel speed or throttle input) so with that sorted we put the wide band on it, and it's turbo rich. The unit it came from had a race intake and exhaust, and obviously flowed better, so more gas. We put the std ECU back in, and it's spot on, so that's what I'll run for now, but good to know the std injectors and pump can flow way more. After the last ride being cancelled due to rain, today was my first official blast. The track was very, very muddy, which added greatly to the excitement/terror. After shitting my dacks near constantly on the first run, I headed out on a second run, but half way around the 17km track I noticed the over heat light was on. I knew it was a blocked radiator, as I had read that's an issue in very muddy conditions, so I had a couple of cool down stops and limped home. Luckily the fucking baller chap next to me in the pits, had a water blaster and huge ass water tank built into his trailer (wot!?!?) and blasted the radiator clean for me. But sadly half way around the next lap it started over heating again, so I called it a day. These pics don't do the lever of filth justice, it was insane how much mud was in/on it. You can see why the radiator blocking is an issue, not a great place for it, So because of this issue, from 2019 onwards they have the radiators in the back, so I'm about to start the process of relocating the radiator. I didn't really want to do this, but I can see it being a pain in the ass/fun ruiner, so I may as well do it now. Regards, VG.
  17. Yeh just do that, I've never opened my motor to remove the internal stuff. The factory carb works well on mine.
  18. But how fucking good do these motors sound, very is the answer.
  19. Peerless is the tranny I was talking about (just remembered the name) they are quite common on some older mowers.
  20. I have the same mower, only down side (I guess) is they are super low geared std. I put big ass tyres on mine, and changed the pulleys to increase the gearing (around 250% increase from memory) and with no governor it will get to around 55kmh on the beach, which feels quite quick on a mower. Standard carb too. I believe most of the racing ones have a little stand alone gearbox, which has a belt input and chain output, and then they run a go kart spec rear axle. You just have to take the reverse chain out of the box before it removes itself from the increased RPM. I started building a NZ racing spec one years ago, but never finished it, like most of my projects, lols.
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