Vintage Grumble

Was that in the A1GP format with those cunty cones up before the second to last corner? I reckon that would easily take off a second or 2 if those weren't there, as they weren't for our first outing on track 2. I could do a 1:22.6 on the track we raced on Friday, and with the tighter corner at the end of the side straight was more like a 1:24, so yeh, about 2 secs faster.

Bridgestone Adrenalins would be the way to go, I have never herd anything bad about them. Semi slicks are mean in the dry, but can be super cunty in the wet, and if your only gonna race it a few times a year, just get good road rubber, saves you changing wheels, and much better in the wet, also last longer then semi slicks. I dont think its worth the extra coin for semi's ayy.

Chur, with a pump cradle modification, and by useing the 20V pump wiring (didnt want to join wires in tank, old pump had bolt on terminals, new one has plug) the cunt is going again. Old pumps brushes and commutator were worn out to shit, hence it died.

Cheers for the info. I have never run it dry as far as I know, when ever I do an event I fill the tank. I happen to have a new filter, was just to lazy to change it, so I will do that, but, Got home from work, and car started first pop (cunt, had to be towed 100km in the dark sunday night, with no battery power, fun) so put fuel ratio meter on and went for a drive, the mixture was going all over the place, and leaned out real bad when excellerating, and then wouldnt go over about 3000rpm with load on, so rolled home and put on a fuel rail with a gauge plumbed in, was only getting about 15psi, pump sounded odd again, motor wouldnt start, then the pump gave up completely, so forced it on with the lap top, and I gave the fuel tank a kick, and bang, it came on again. So im about 99.99% sure bearings/bushes in pump are fucked. So will pull it out tonight. Next question: is a 20V silver top pump the same as an AE86 one?

After doing a Motokhana on the weekend, while driving into Toe-rags my car started loosing power, so I pulled over and had a look, but couldnt see anything wrong, but it wouldnt free rev properly, but idled ok. When I went to drive away, it stalled, and would restart but fade away to a stop, did this a few times, and after a while just wouldnt fire at all. We know its got spark, we know the injectors are firing, we know the timing is rite, and that all sensors are working, and the plugs are not fouled. But you can smell raw fuel out the exhaust, and mist comes out the plug holes when winding it over. Havent had a chance to test fuel pressure yet, but if you listen to the gas tank, the pump sounds like a facet pump, making kinda ticking sounds, rather then the normal high pitched whine that sort of pump should make, we are thinking the pump has given up, still pumping, but at shit all pressure, so what I want to know is, has any one had a 4age pump fail on them? Is it common? Any help would be good.

Fuck.

Aww its pretty choice ayy, but what he ^ said is rite on the money ayy.

Yeh, they are 295cc.

That truck is farking mean, this project has just been shown the direction it MUST go!

My old rolla gear box used to clip into 3rd and 4th, and a dude told me to mix like 1/3 ATF with normal gear oil, so I gave it a go, and shit me, it worked super well, might help with your problem?

Cheers for that! So, would be fine to put an open head in a factory LSD diff, but, if you put an LSD in a diff that came factory with an open head, you would need to shorten the axles. So as mine was factory LSD, I should be sweet putting the open head in, if each axle is only a little bit shorter, it wont matter fuck all I guess?

I just read on a site that LSD T-series diffs have different length axles to the open type?? Has anyone ever read this, or seen it for them selfs? Just checking it out, as im about to have a open diff made up to use till I get a new LSD. I know the dia of the axle at the splines is diff between the face lift and non face lift cars, but ive never read anything else about the length being different? Any info would be mean. Cheers.

Yeh these mo fokers aint moving ayy, they do have faint lines on the outter of the hex head, so maybe they aint ment to move like you say, thing is the nuts are those big flat round bizo's with no heads, so I guess vice grips be the only way? Not keen to drill them out as theres 64 bolts to do, and a brother cant afford 64 bolts/nuts.

Cheers for the tip on the polystyrene! I'll go hit up some chaps and see what I can get. Wholy shit thats a great idea! That would be perfect! Someones house is gonna pay for that idea Im having a cunt load of trouble with these wheels ayy, the hex bolts wont move!

Small update, wheel's showed up today, are a bit ruff, but ok. Once flipped will give us ................................ 4 INCHES OF DISH!! WOOOOO!! Not to mention some fucked up offset!! Will CRC them and leave to soak over night, I'll try get them to bits 2moro. Also I purchased 4m of tubing for twin lightning bolt exhausts Dirk pilfered some MDF for spoilers and so on also. Hope to get some work done on this very soon. Just need to find a whole shit load of polystyrene? Anyone know of a poorly guarded building site near Whakatane?

I have to say, those KM10 lock nuts are fucking hawt! .... You know what that ute needs, a TRD LSD! (peerpressurepeerpressurepeerpressure) Mean work on the ute, looks fucking (im trying to use as many smilies as I can) I reckon you should go with 13's ayy, 15's would look to big on that IMO.

Yeh, im guessing the TRD unit will be a fair bit stronger and tighter, and also mine would need new clutch/springs any way, as it was pretty loose. If I did manage to get the replacement part, it would most likely be huge money as you say, and likely to snap again, so TRD one it is! Cheers for all the info/hook ups guys.

Love this car, I was racing at Taupo on the weekend (stink for me we are in the same class ) and got to have a bit of a watch, I just love the engine/box sound your car makes, so mean. What is it geared to max out at?

Mines a big port head, on a ZE block, with silver top crank/rods and wiseco pistons. I did lots of hill climbs and club events with mine, and not a drop of oil came out, but as soon as I got on the track, bang, mega oil mess. Mind you that was with a blue top block, so had super shit oil drains. Im keen to get some meaner cams when I do the next rebuild, I guess the solid lifters would work out a lot cheaper then a shim under kit?

Hes Frank, and he does what frank wants! GC as. And yeah, if parts not recognised, its never been on the database in NZ, and its almost impossible to get sorry bud. I got 2 off frank last year for $700 each both seperate purchased and were both very good units Yeh he said cos of the economic climate price has gone back up a bit, said he could have done them for $600.00 a few months ago, but shit, I cant wait 6 or so years for the dolla to sort its shit out

Thats not bad, I was told $780 I think for the set Yeh, 3/4 inch return drains sorry, but I also have twin breathers, but they are kinda pointless.

This is the little cunt here: Drove from Taupo to Whakatane with it like that, was all good as long as you didnt engine brake.

FLAWLES, cheers for that interchange thing, very interesting, I do have a welded up, and a std open center I could use, but it just wouldnt be the same The bit I broke is the block thing that the spider gears hang off on the std LSD, known as the "clutch member", one of the spider gear shafts broke off. fuel, yeh, thats a bit pricey for a second hand one thats making funny sounds.

I txt that dude (where is he/who he work for Mr.Mk1??) and he can do the TRD ones for $900.00ish, or about $800.00ish if ordered 2x, not bad compared to the other brands, so looks like thats the way im gonna have to go I guess. Has become a fairly expensive track day I aint the sharpest tool in the shed, that there diff inter-change-ablity thing, will each of those diff heads fit in each other car on that list??

Cheers for the info guys. Mr.Mk1, unrecognised = discontinued im guessing? As in no hope in hell of getting one? I'll txt that dude and hit him up about the TRD LSD, cheers for the hook up Looks like i'll have to get an after market head, but shit me, they aint cheap, they seem to go for around: Cusco = $2600 Kaaz = $1800 Tomei = $1690 Hope the TRD ones are a bit cheaper, but on the TRD site it says the early type LSD's have been discontinued