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forced

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Everything posted by forced

  1. The more pics the better. BTW EFI is against the rules too unless you're in TDS as they've just changed the rules to let a couple of cars in. 292 cams on a V8. Haha the only time you'll ever come across a 292 cam is with a japper. V8 cams never seem to have the duration advertised and it cartainly wouldn't be 292..... nor would you put a hydraulic cam into a serious funnycar motor.Oh and C16 isn't normally used by V8s, it's better for turbo cars.......I've got the feeling you might be telling porkies. Steve
  2. Ha, a turbo funny car... I've never seen one.... it's against the rules isn't it? Steve
  3. Well that's a new one.... totally original. The only exhaust that will ever be close to laminar is the one that's 100% silent and that one hasn't been built yet. Steve
  4. I think you mean that the wastegate flap is welded up. If you're using the original WG port with an external then all you're doing is trying to fix a problem in the wrong way because the internal port will always flow sufficient so long as everything around it allows it to happen. Which also sounds like a really good way to bugger up a good turbo. As for low boost and no BOV, I had an old fairlady Z here at one stage, Early 80s, 2L V6 Turbo, no intercooler and no BOV. My mate's got an 86 Supra 2l straight 6 TT, again no BOV from the factory (can't find it anyway?)Most earlyish turbo jappers ran low boost. As far as the positioning of the BOV goes, the idea is to keep the air flowing in the same direction to keep the turbo spinning. You don't want some of the air in the pipe reversing when the BOV opens when the throttle closes. Steve
  5. He's the bloke who invented the telephone. They didn't have turbos back then, not on telephones anyway. The evo problem is caused by the outlet pipe off the turbo being badly designed where the wg and turbine flows join together. Steve
  6. More often than not, low oil pressure at idle is caused by worn bearings. Yes they have a hydraulic tensioner for the cam chain. Steve
  7. 100% corrrect. If the plugs are too cold it will miss and fart at low load. Steve
  8. The answer of course is to go and buy a book. BTW I've had mine since 1980.I've read it from cover to cover so many times I can't remember. You'll never get any sense from the internet. Steve
  9. Choosing the turbo is chapter 4, Controls are chapter 9. If it runs, spikes due to surging, you've failed in chapter 4.Maybe you need to do some reading too. Steve
  10. Some of you guys need a history lesson. Anyway there's a book called "turbochargers" by Hugh McInnes. It's a must read book. It's got a few mistakes in it though but it covers everything. A wastegate is only there to prevent overboost. It's only one of several ways to prevent it, the easiest but not always the best way.The original (old) turbos didn't have internal gates, newer ones usually do, they've been around since the mid 70s. Inbuilt gates are an upgrade. If an inbuilt gate won't work properly, it's not because it's inferior, it's because it needs modification. Likewise you don't need a BOV either but it's an easy way to prevent compressor surge. If running low boost you don't need one , also if you're using the throttle before the turbo you don't need one either.If you're running highish boost with the throttle after the turbo you DO need one, factory ones work well though once you understand a bit about them. The main problem with car enthusiasts these days is that there's lots of people trying to sell performance products, most of which are inferior to what car manufacturers fit on cars. These salesmen make false claims about their products (they don't even know themselves), helped along by wannabe car enthusiasts that don't really know FA about anything. No wonder so many modded cars blow up. If you go back to the roots of hot rodding, afterall that's what it is, the cheap easy way is to get your upgraded parts from the dump, from a higher specced car than what you're upgrading. Then it's back to "built or bought", and chequebook racers (which of course I've got zero respect for). Sure if you've got lots of money you can buy a fast car. Some can build faster ones for a lot less money using the right parts but only if they know the basics. edit, compressor surge WILL occur if you've upgraded the turbo to one which is "wrong" or too big for the motor. It will also happen when you launch it at high boost and the wastegate spring is too tight. Oh and you haven't maxed out your turbo until you've wound up the boost so far that the wastegate never opens. Boost creep is pretty common on 4G63Ts. The no brainer way to fix it is to fit an external. Redesigning the exhaust and boring out the internal will fix it cheaper. Boost spiking is caused by the boost rising quicker than the wastegate can open. That can be fixed by adjusting the spring, making the lines bigger and modifying the bleed mechanism/electronics. Steve
  11. In my opinion, CRC is good for soaking rusted nuts and that's it. Shit sticks to it and makes things worse again. Kero is good for cleaning inertia starter motors, then put it back in dry. If it's getting gunked up then maybe you've got a leak in either the gearbox or rear crank seal. Steve
  12. The time to do rings would be when you get pissed off leaving a cloud of smoke behind when you floor it.Attracting the cops too. Steve
  13. Zeps isn't a racecar. Racecars change their oil a bit more often. I only change my oil when I change the motor.About every 5000Ks. Steve
  14. I've yet to see a catch can on a car with PCV system hooked up correctly. There's supposed to be a flow of air through the crankcase from the outside air to a vacuum source. Without that the oil gets contaminated with water, unburnt fuel and acids. Chances are it's wrong. As with all turbo motors , if you pull the plugs, put them in a row, check for oil on the threads.... that's the only clue you need to show it's got a broken piston. If the plugs are clean, you've got a good motor. Unless as above you've blown the headgasket, you'll know because you'll have needed to replace popped hoses, or radiator, or heater. Steve
  15. Why though? Increasing the valve diameter by 1mm will increase the circumference of the seat by Pi ......3.142 mm. At the same time the seat is wider in diameter so the minimal extra flow that the longer seat gives is offset by the seat being closer to the wall of the combustion chamber. It's certainly nothing I'd look at when there's cheaper ways to make power, unless you're made of money. More lift makes more sense to me. Steve
  16. You're obviously confused. When the intake valve is closed, there's no flow through it. When it opens, there is. Velocity of something means nothing unless you take mass into consideration. That's where inertia comes in. That said to confuse you further, a 4V Cleveland head is considered too big for street use due to insufficient velocity (at least according to all the experts out there). So why is it then that many Mitsi 4V ports are bigger per cylinder capacity and so velocity is less. The only reasonable answer is that all the experts are well and truely wrong. You've confused yourself of course because air flows in 2 ways, there's a direct flow with a pressure wave superimposed over it, much like electricity where there's AC and DC but there's also pulsed DC which is far more interesting and important. Steve
  17. Plenty of data. All you need to do is visit pick a part and take some imagination with you along with an open mind . As for the % losses, if the valve is closed, there's no flow so losses at 1 through 8 are all nil. As the valve lift increases, the % loss across the valve decreses whilst the losses 1 through 8 in the diagram all increase. It doesn't show the loss caused by the intake port divider which in some cases is significant specially when you work out the peak airflow by other means, which is very close to supersonic at least in one of my motors. Steve
  18. Looks like a load of shyte to me. Flow through the port is dependant on valve lift....... that changes everything else. As for port velocity, more BS. I think that's only relevent for dirty american V8s. It's not velocity that's important at all but inertia. Inertia is a function of both area and length. That's why big port 4 valve heads on EFI jappers have long runners (must be close to 1.5m long on my 3.5 quadcam Paj). Dirty old V8s can only make use of tunnel rams. Steve
  19. There's a cut off relay in the reg box. When the gen light is on, the generator isn't connected to the battery. It only operates when the gen voltage is higher then the battery. Steve
  20. I used a short piece of copper brakepipe as part of a diff swap.That was way back before certs etc. I got told (by the WOF man) to replace it with proper pipe before it would pass a WOF. The rules might be different now. Steve
  21. forced

    sealants

    Maybe the sump's got too much pressure in it? Steve
  22. I'd have thought the easiest thing to do would be to assemble it completely with no springs. That way you can measure the compressed space available for the springs, measure the travel etc. If you know spring rates and the weight on the front of the car you can also work out how high it should sit... at least theoretically. If you take stock springs and cut say one turn off, the car sits lower but the spring rate is also greater. I'm not suggesting you cut stock springs but it DOES work to a certain extent. That was probably the first mod I did to my first car, while I was at it I drained the struts & filled with hypoid 90, did the same to the lever arms in the back (the hypoid 90). Hard suspension when cold, softer as it got hotter.Yay. Steve
  23. prehaps so , but enough to run the booster??, no . if that was the case diesel engines would not need the vacuum tanks that they have for vacuum storage chap . Diesels don't have a throttle and the manifold is always at atmospheric pressure or greater. Dunno how an exhaust brake affects things but that's irrelevent. The vac only gets used up when you put the foot on the brake as it's "doing work" when when the foot's on the brake, the throttle is usually closed and making vac. It's like reading on an american forum..... "help, when I pump the brake with the engine idling, it idles funny?" Steve
  24. Vac issues don't actually exist.......just another forum myth for the benefit of retards. If the motor runs, then there's vacuum. Steve
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