forced

That's a mint looking Y block and I love those old customlines. That's where the motor ended up..... later.

I'm working on it. I've got some pics already on imageshack, plenty in the camera but my laptop's s screwed, I can only load the pics from the camera to the laptop but can't log onto imageshack. My main Pc CAN logon to imageshack... I hate computers.

Just to bring this one back from the dead,plus I've got time to kill, it's also wind up day. The arrows look like they're the correct way to me. Does everyone else here believe EVERYTHING they read?

Probably depends on your pump as well and whether it's sucking or pushing. 8mm OD lines are good for over 300Kw at the hubs.

To put it more simply, if it's tuned for resonance (to make more power/torque) at X rpm, then at some other rpm, the resonance will be working to reduce power.A motor tuned for resonance will have a peaky rather than broad torque curve Intake valves always close when the piston has past BDC so the piston is coming back up. This can force air out of the cylinder and back into the intake manifold (reversion). The step reduces the flow in that direction and minimises reversion. That's why factory manifolds are nearly always mismatched rather than forum BS being about "tolerences"

So long as you don't get fuel on it.

Why don't you make the ports in the head a bit bigger?

Probably better to put a TDO5 in there. Steve

$2K for a strobe? no way. What a waste of a brilliant machine.Still if it's at Weltec , I might end up getting it for a play anyway, seeing as I''ve already fixed a couple of their coil testers. Steve

If there's no advance in the distributor, then there's no need to spin it. All you need to do is use an oscillator (well a little bit more to it than that, a square wave oscillator with 12 volt bias) to supply the ignition amp, then compare input and output with a 2 chanel scope. As for the "sun " machine, I'm sure I could get it going for them if it's not too serious (and they've got plenty of $$$$). Best option would be to use the sun machine with dizzy hooked up to the ignition amp & coil etc. If you're using a computer then why not throw away the dizzy and use a pair of wasted spark coils with 2 crank triggers? Steve

Put those factory parts back in there (that you took out) one at a time until it's fixed. Oh no, you threw them away.

The only real use for a rising rate regulator is as a band aid for injectors that are too small.

The pump won't stall at all, the fuel will flow through the regulator to maintain correct pressure.

If you look at a flowchart for a walbro pump (purely as an examle) you'll see that one which flows 60GPH (US gallons) at 35PSI (idle pressure) will flow 50GPH at 60PSI (15 pounds boost). Sure it's a difference but not a great deal when looking at overall fuel flow. What it tells you is that at idle there'll be about 59.9GPH going through the regulator and at WOT, max rpm, there'll be bugger all,most going through the injectors, depending on how much power you're making.

No dampeners on my motor. If the pump is running at a fixed voltage, then the total fuel flow will be constant, regardless of engine load.

Gas axe.

If you want 2 fuel rails, you really need a reg at the end of each one, teed together. Your pic , the fuel will get hot as it's not circulating, best case it might keep stalling, worst case it might lean out and detonate and be really hard to tune. Hot fuel is less dense so leaner AFR.

Yeah? Not on my car.

Try towstarting it?

yes you do forced no stop shit dribbling apprently he attually recorded 1873 d...so his pistons have melted and his motor is dead......grow up ya cock dribller Americans measure EGT in FARHENITE

Fuck some people talk a load of shyte. EGT is normally no more than 1700 or so degrees FARHENITE. Pistons would melt before any steel manifold IF EGT ever got to 1800 C

You can't beat recycling as per previous reply. I've got a washing machine surround that needs a new life.

There's a tach output on the igniter

Sewing machines work well, if you've got the right sort.

The answer, is when the motor has overheated, the rings loose tension, oil gets past the compression rings and then gives a "good" compression test. How do you suppose valve stem seals actually go bad? when the rings are still good?