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Dr Danger

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Everything posted by Dr Danger

  1. Yeah nagh, them Barry radiator deflectors are factree fitted.
  2. Please do not turbo the CA20. It will end in tears. Crank will split in half, rods buckle, no girdle etc etc. Best best would be to save for a bottom end kit for the CA18. You can get a 2L stroker kit for them off the shelf now. Much better idea. Few people have tried and failed miserably with the CA20det idea.
  3. Dr Danger

    .

    Not 100% on SR's, but externally, a turbo motor should have an oil drain running back into the block on the exhaust side if it's a turbo. Obviously blocked off if the turbo has been removed. Would be strange to remove a turbo and put NA stuff on. Werid stuff happens though I guess.
  4. Townsville huh. Thought you might be in with a good shot advertising it over the ditch. Quality car like that was bound to attract some attention... Well done.
  5. Fiar enough Unc. I'm over road cars personally, wanna swap? Wish I had the moola myself. If you knock together an add, wack it up on the Mk1 Cortina forum (link below). I'm sure it would gain some attention there. Car seems cheap or is it sans motor? dilusion: most people made it here: http://www.cortina-mk1classifieds.com/forum/ except for UJ, whom we didn't really like anyway. Even though he's a GC.
  6. Dissapointing Unc. Was looking forward to hearing about it driven in anger (by you) again. Is it the fact that you havn't driven it for some time? Forgotten what it's like? Or are you just a fanta pants wearing softcock with an ugly head? DD
  7. Another thing to check might be the earths. I incidentally cleaned mine the other day and the symptoms seem to have disapeared. For now.
  8. There was a issue with the sparks but all good now. Still happens but that's not to say that it hasn't spat another one in the mean time... Will have a fiddle with the TPS and see what happens. Cheers
  9. Yeh, I'd kinda overlooked fuel pumps and such as the issue because it doesn't happen under load. Mine also drives fine until it is warm... Supports the TPS idea perhaps because the 'choke' would be overriding the TPS until then?
  10. I'm having almost the exact same problems with a small port 4AGE. I usually don't drive it too far for it to seriously annoy me but regardless, I'm interested to see what fixes it.
  11. Nagh, they haven't, but if you hit the forum on that site there are several people that either have done, or are in the process of doing this conversion.
  12. Yeh, sounds like you should grab one and get them to test it. Can always send it back if it isn't what they said it would be...? Keep us posted.
  13. No issues with a well setup twin plate per se but there is no reason why a strong single plate cannot hold up either. My engine builder has a single plate clutch on a CA making over 300rwkw (semi-slicked drag car) and it holds together fine. Probably in a different $$$ ballpark to what we are talking here tho... Won't the limiting factor be the rear end grip (or traction UJ? ) to a greater or less degree? Light car + road tires shouldn't be stressing the clutch too much unless you are trying pretty bloody hard... Which is why I thought the full faced organic would be okay. Maybe shopping around for some more expert advice would be the go?
  14. The people you know are not building them properly then. If they are screwed together right, and have a good tune, there is absolutely no reason a CA with forged pistons and rods will not make that kind of powers, and more, all day every day. I'd like to know exactly what was going wrong with them? Where the SR falls down somewhat is the physical size of the thing, especially when sticking them in oldskool engine bays. The alloy block does not help and there is all of 5kg's difference between the two. Aftermarket support for both engines is excellent yadda yadda yadda...
  15. 220 is alot for an internally standard CA but it's not a huge number for even lightly modified motors. Not sure how much insurance there would be in the rods/pistons/turbo much after 200 on a standard motor? If you have plans to take it further later on, wouldn't it make sense to look at clutches that can handle a bit more power now rather than having to do it all over again later? You know, while it's apart and all But a decent full faced organic plate (with slightly lightened flywheel) should cope and be better to drive around with that a puck? All the CA16 exaust cam does is move the power around the rev range, I don't think they make more power per se. Probably better to use cam gears because then you can dial both cams in to suit the combo. The SR20 TB? I was always under the impression that force fed, big TB's don't make too much difference, just make them less nice to drive at small throttle openings. Happy to stand corrected on all of the above...
  16. So how is that going to work with a Kent motor?? On newer Falcons they have a semi formable aluminium sheet insulation that they use in the engine bay. Some people have used it successfully to form shrouds around turbo's and exausts with good results. MIGHT be worth a look into depending on the exact application... ACL make it I think.
  17. The website does bloody well so have things to offer you goons. There are two threads that discuss the rack issue: But now I have looked they are tad obscure, sorry. Type 'rack' into the search and then take a peek at 2 threads, one titled 'Mk1 Zetec', the other titled 'Geoff and Jules V8 Mk1'. That should explain all. Fanta pants indeed...
  18. There are other ways of doing it that do not modify the cars original geometry. Something that engineers are not very seen on over here (Oz). One way is pretty simple, the other not. For a discussion try http://www.cortina-mk1classifieds.com/forum/ but you might have to register first, not sure.
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