Beaver

Woah, that was ages ago. The fine stead is still going strong. Can't remember what's happened but I've done around 4,500km since the Lifan swap. New carb day today, a Nibbi which is a brand I came across while down in Christchurch for Syd's Run. Fair few people were running them so I figured it was worth a shot. Looks the part and after initial testing it is significantly smoother everywhere. I'm calling that a win. Photo doesn't really show it but the carb is a matt black finish with nice anodised bits. Looks very sharp.

Yeh I'm a no go sorry. Logistics aren't panning out; I'm in the wrong island most of the week.

Can confirm it should be yellow off the stator (looking at wiring diagram).

Cool to see another RD50! I believe the headlight power feed is seperate to the rest of the lights, I think I have a wiring diagram somewhere I'll see what I can find. Here's my RD https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/87461-beavers-yamaha-rd50/#comment-2559776

Oh and hauled some more bikes. Didn't get any pics of all 3 loaded up

So I put in a new head unit a few months back (how good is Bluetooth, no more silly aux cords). Anyway, it soon gave me errors (check wiring) and would turn itself off frequently. Now I'm no wiring expert but like to think I can install a car stereo good enough. Rechecked all the wiring and connections, nothing obvious and no change in performance. Gave up for a while then the other day it was as repeatable as ever and would cut out once driving and then come back on when idling. So figured it may be voltage related. Threw the multimeter on and hey presto. That ain't right. Tracked down a second hand alternator and gave the same results, at which point realised it was externally regulated (facepalm) so concluded the regulator was bust. Given the corrosion on it, it seemed reasonable assumption. Tracked down a new one, and everything now does what it should (14.5ish V at idle) and I have consistent music!

Feel like a dweeb for asking, but adjustable damping shock absorbers (with a real obvious adjuster knob). Should I expect issues come WOF time?

Repost from coffee thread, but needed a tamper for my coffee machine. Learnt how to lathe and spun this up from stainless and an old door handle

Are you going to cut the guards so you can fit wide wheels/slam, or are the flares just going to stick out and the wheel/height combo will fit the guards themselves? Reason I ask is that if it's the second option then in my opinion flares look silly as they stick way out and serve no real purpose. If the flares are so you can fit a tough wheel/height combo and need to cut the guards then I offer a firm hand shake. But it's your car so do whatever you want, will be super rad either way.

Drag the rest of the gbag back to PAP and ask for a refund?

Not all heroes wear capes A++

Nothing update worthy but still earning it's keep as the resident workhorse. Needs a WOF soon (maybe overdue already) and is in desperate need of a wheel alignment so will get that sorted. Otherwise nothing really to report on. Oh actually, I put in a new stereo but turns out I shouldn't quit my day job as it randomly turns off and tells me to check the wiring haha.

As an aside, other than the extra for experts whangamomona track, is the rest drivable?

Holy heck this looks good. Need to check the calendar on the back of the shitter door.

The coil on this sits up under the tank and gets spray from the wheel. The spark lead and cap are also in the firing line. So I think its one of those causing issues. Plans are to replace the original cap with modern one (I had water issues on my v50 lifan where it woudl start running like shit as soon as it was raining/the road was wet. A good quality NGK cap with a rubber seal solved the problems 100%), and look at a way to protect the coil a bit better from water.

And got a few extra HP by replacing throwing cap screws at everything

Have been commuting on this every day for the last month or so. Great way to start and end the work day for sure. Only had one hiccup on a wet day when it lost spark. Once it dried out it was fine. Other thing that bugs me was it leaks fuel through the carb and out the inlet when sitting. I turn the fuel off anyway but still. So stripped the intake down (after adjusting the carb floats) and resealed things back up. One of the mounting holes for the intake is snapped off, and the precious owner just good it up. Instead I used a big washer to clamp it down. Seems to have done the trick.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0yyHBq Could be worth a shot? Haha Else surely someone on the US makes reproduction ones. Can't imagine it would be cheap to get someone local to make a one off. @Archetype may be able to share some insight

As per previous photos, fixed the seat courtesy of @64valiant shit it looks good. My backside appreciates it as well. Also a small today up on the back using left over v50 bits (got rid of the big square plate mount and the oversized tail light bracket. Is now road legal and period correct plate style and stickers etc to round it off.

Story time please

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/70199-mitchs-91-bmw-r80/#comment-2205313

New tyres and tubes fitted up, and seat is with @64valiant getting some much needed love. The seat base was quite bent which was kicking the tail up too high making it look like a banana, and someone had a go at being a DIY seat builder and upholster with pretty poor results. Not only did it look terrible is was very uncomfortable. Will look and feel much better when said and done, and give the bike the nice flat lines it deserves. Had some fun with some seats Greg had in stock. Turns out a mudbug seat fits quote nicely!