cletus

Hi gibbon do you need a new best friend

I spent quite a while trying to get some proof that the chassistech spindles i had for my chev were chassistech ones, in the end i gave up and bought new belltech ones

Nope. Just cleaned it Trans got the same treatment

As far as paint goes? I painted this 10+ years ago with bunnings enamel paint from a tin When i put it in the green car i just cleaned it and gave it another coat of the same stuff. Block is iron but the heads and manifold are aluminium It holds up pretty well

Nope. Could not get used to balloon spec tyres, thought it looked yuck every time i pull the cover off so put 205/60/14 back on the front. Wof time again too,should be ok ive only driven it 3 or 4 times since the last one

Probably a question best left for when you have the parts , attachment to the vehicle and where that attachment is are as important as the parts themselves I generally avoid telling anyone any parts are ok based on photos , i have been threatened with legal action in the past because i told someone some arms looked ok, they bought them and they were shit , and they wanted me to pay for them

that falken thing was fairly short lived it was only valid for a specific model of tyre which has been discontinued apparently it was one countries office of falken that released that alternative size chart, and once the main office of falken found out, they said nope, cant be used any more. lvvta continued to accept the falken sheet for that model of tyre. i havent seen any for a long time though

Correct, but depends on the car. Some vehicles that have the bump stop on the shock are designed to have more load through the shock , so need less/no strength added

If its an aftermarket belt ie Autoliv, then you can swap for a webbing type one, they make them all the same

Yes has to be a matched set

Sometimes putting a slight rounded edge on the pads where they contact the disc can help with squeals

Yes, recert, any post declaration mods would have to be to current standards, mods on the declaration would get an exemption from some things , there are sections in the CCM for pre 92 mods It is pretty rare to see cars that match the declaration, usually they have some mods like different wheels over the years

Related there was an accident recently which involved a car with a declaration, which did not match- it had been modified further after the declaration there was some rumours that NZTA wanted to make declarations void after that, but i dont think anything happened, apart from this Inspection news (nzta.govt.nz)

this the aliexpress bags have quite a low pressure rating which may not be suitable in some cases internal design features are not ideal on some of them

Does it have a cert on it, and some red suspension arms? It looks familiar

If the vin tag shows signs of being tampered with, it can cause headaches Common signs of this are spinning the rivet head when you drill it out, the tags get damaged easily They are also glued on, when they are scraped off the tag gets damaged in a way that makes it obvious its been removed

In regards to what? Cert rules? Or wof ?

Or whittle up your own copies of original lower parts that arent forged or cast, then you could weld them straight to the tube

Another idea into the pot Instead of welding to some standard cut down struts Get a couple of flat plates cut out with the bolt pattern to suit, and weld those directly to the BC strut tube? Might be something to discuss with your certifier/ might need design approval

if its good quality , bolts on etc, no problem

The way I interpret the book, it is OK to do seat anchorages the way you want to. They aren't attached to panel steel floor, so does not have to be doubler plates Bump stops on shocks will be fine as long as they limit travel before anything fouls

Depends how legit you want to be and how much you want to spend The correct way would be get it certed The other way is change it so it meets wof requirements , get wof, then either leave it like that or roll the dice on putting it back to how it was when it was stickered

Cant see why not, if its a reputable manufacturer,passes bump steer check, ackerman within tolerances,it drives ok, and meets lvvta requirements

Ive got to have a look next time im on a computer if that method is still ok The seat standard and CCM mentions that you CANNOT weld seat anchorages to a unibody vehicle I have certed a lot of them like the pics, because its a time tested way of doing it but i have a vague recollection of a certifier update saying it cant be done unless it has an authority card