cletus

Aluminium is OK if its a reputable aftermarket manufacturer If you were cobbling something together yourself then there may be more questions

@johnny.race has a bit to do with diff stuff

anyone else using the Waze app? its kinda handy, basically its like google maps but you can update things on the the map yourself, the main advantage is you can see where there are crashes, police, speed cameras, etc

Ah right. I guess you could have a look at examples of OEM axles or hubs and see what thicknesses they have in that area, and use that as justification it's OK?

there isnt a spec for that particular thing but if you worked on minimum being the same thickness as the axle flange would be a sensible amount and lines up with other requirements in the manual ie a brake pedal min thickness is 8mm, and there must be 8 mm margin around holes in the pedal so if the axle flange is 12mm thick where the studs pass through, use that as a minimum

Thats a holley have a look at the front of the choke horn, there should be a list number which you can look up and it will tell you what it is

i wonder if a explorer 8.8 might be another good option for a XY 1 short axle, narrow one side, fits perfect in a valiant, which is about 57 inches disc face to disc face from memory

Yeah I wouldn't risk it tbh If you get asked for a receipt, it is unlikely that anyone would risk certing aliexpress brake parts Rock auto does rolls of it at a reasonable price, and does tube nuts as well

Aluminium table, who do you think you are, some sort of racingcar guy ? Mario Andretti over heeeaaa

The problem is what it's rated to carry And for some reason NZTA will not under any circumstances lower the GVM of a vehicle , I have tried a couple of times to see if it can be done but no The usual problem is tyre load rating, ie if the vehicle GVM is 3200kg, the tyres must be at least that ie 800kg each Smaller sizes are not available with the right load ratings so then can't be certed Oem wheels generally don't have load ratings on them so we have to go off whatever the gvm was on the donor vehicle

Oem wheels are a ballache on a ute due to cert stuff Can't use wheels from a donor vehicle with a lower GVM than the vehicle you are putting them on which rules out a lot of wheels on commercials

Technically no In the threshold it mentions that spring seats must be oem unmodified The circlip adjustable bilsteins have always required cert, unless they were factory fitted in that specific vehicle when manufactured However they are often one of those things that gets wofs without cert, usually because the wof guy doesn't notice or read the rules properly A guy I know had some in a falcon and that got wofs because the circlip fell down into the lowest position so the other slots were not visible any more A person could be a criminal and remove the adjustableness and paint them black or something and try their luck I guess but that would be illegal technically so I would never suggest that you might get away with that I have heard stories of other criminals that just swap suspension once a year to get wofs and they say that's pretty easy to do and then they don't have to damage their bilsteins

While rules like that seem a bit dumb especially if you're not an imbecile, after the week I've had, there definitely needs to be someone checking that things have been done correctly. basic instructions are beyond the capabilities of a large percentage of the population

yep it probably got missed at compliance and should have been certified. its not uncommon for things like that to get overlooked if its not obvious- ie if thats the only mod, and it drives normally, and its not painted bright yellow with XTREME VOLVO PERFORMANC KUSTOMZ or something written on it, and the inspector did a less than thorough inspection of the column area then it would be easy to miss, especially if theres a cover over the column or the unit is hidden up behind the dash

If it's not in the threshold= needs cert. The modification threshold only lists the stuff that can be done without a cert. Adding electric ps definitely needs cert, and they can be problematic as it adds load to parts that didn't have much load on them previously, plus the kits you can buy generally don't comply with lvv requirements due to welded shafts etc

Use the excess power to mine bitcoin,and buy electricity with the profits?

Like @440bbm said , try taking the front resonator out first, if it's got long tail pipes the rear ones will help get rid of any rasp/ thong slap If you're making a new exhaust, it's down to personal preference on how you want it to sound, something like yours I'd do mild steel, twin 2.5 into a pair of decent mufflers before the diff, h pipe up the front and some small resonators in the tail pipes

as long as it met all the other criteria in the modification threshold, in theory, it should pass.

A fresh coat of orange looks lovely, well done

no, id ordered one from WAER and they sent it out, but the courier delivered it to the wrong adress, and they cant tell me where it ended up. they sent a pic of where they left it but it wasnt my house... got an email today and its going through the couriers insurance apparently Both me and Eric have been onto them, but no luck, and that was the last one he had in stock, it was delivered last tuesday to who knows where im not in a big rush, it was more just out of interest, if it wasnt super expensive i could get a spare or 2 made but i realise im probably being unrealistic

Anyone have any idea what it would cost to get one/3/5 of these whittled up out of steel? Needs to be a good grade material , it's a band apply lever in a transmission I have a broken one as a pattern They are not that expensive but are hard to get in NZ It's probably 70mm long It's the bottom bit @ajg193 ?

are the baffles quite restrictive to get it quieter? have you thought about a 2-1 with a muffler, might be better?

A missed opportunity in font and design there