cletus

I have to help with judging at 4&rotary show on friday night. Usually don't finish till 4am ish So I've already packed a bike in the van, and a mattress so I can go straight to the meet point, have a snooze, wake up and go scootering

Torsion bars- if they are stuck, undo the front lower arm inner nut, whack the housing where the torsion bar goes in , and get a big pry bar in and push the arm back, away from the k member Probably obvious but undo the torsion bar adjuster and remove it before you start I have used a pair of vice grips with aluminum sheet as soft jaws on the bar so you don't damage it, then whack the vice grips to push the bar back

You might be able to give yourself a bit more clearance with an Allen head bolt There isn't a set minimum but I'd aim for at least 5mm . If you have to run spacers anyway it's not a big deal to space it out a bit more

Some more progress. One thing I have learned from the job I do, is sometimes it's better to pay for someone to do stuff instead of having a go and making a hash of it myself. Both front floor pans had some rust on the top side which I don't have the skill, gear, or patience to do a nice job of. @RXFORD/ Matt at tin tricks in east tamaki is a friend of mine, he picked it up and fixed the floors, while it was there he deleted the heater motor and hose holes in the firewall and made a new part of the inner guard which gets rid of an ugly bit where the battery box used to live, and made it match the other side. My photos are a bit ham but I'm stoked with how it turned out

Did you consider any other similar hybrid type vehicles before deciding on a prius?

The decibel test is done with the engine not 'loaded' ie in neutral, take it up to the test rpm, start the meter reading, then let it drop back to idle

retail price is $580 for a basic cert inspection, plus hoist hire at a workshop if necessary extra set of wheels- there isn't a set price for that, stuff like that I base on how long it takes and how helpful the owner is. Ie if theres another set of wheels in the boot and I have to swap them over myself, then it would cost more, than if the owner swaps them while im doing the paperwork

the way I interpret it, if the exhaust met the decibel requirements in the open position, you could have the switch inside the vehicle and you could change it whenever

Yep that's how I read it. So if it passes in 'open' mode it should be ok

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf 2.1 has the requirements for what you are talking about

Bear in mind that is the rules for certification - so a reset spring requires cert- there's nothing allowing a reset spring in the wof modification threshold Also reset coils are not often very good- you remove travel but the spring rate remains the same, and often people get springs reset because an aftermarket spring doesnt go low enough Leaf springs have the advantage of being able to add more leafs to up the spring rate

still have the category for doing them, but we now refer noise certs to someone else for a few reasons. the main one being it was costing us money- I worked out over a 6 month period, just under half of the people booked in didn't turn up. because im mobile, I had to organize a site to test at each time, and at $50 if it failed, we were not covering the time it took to drive there, and people would still moan at the cost because the test was pretty quick if it failed it started getting in the way of other work so we gave our meter to one of the guys who is based in a shop, it makes more sense to do noise certs based from one place rather than battle traffic

This.

yes if you follow the requirements in here airbags https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Frontal_Impact.pdf abs removal https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf

exhaust cert is a completely separate process, to regular cert for everything else as you describe, book it in, get checked, pass or fail from my experience when I was doing noise certs/testing we charged $50 if it failed, and $250 if it passed, that included the sticker and a certificate, which we have to put the car on a hoist and measure/sketch the whole exhaust system, check for leaks, make sure it is secured correctly, etc. as far as I know now, most of the guys doing noise certs charge $300+ whether it passes or fails ported rotaries are probably the worst to get legal of everything for a couple of reasons. the whole time I was doing testing I can only remember 2 ported n/a rotaries that had legitimate exhausts that passed without some sort of "temporary" baffle or something to shut it up for the cert. you don't have to get stickered for noise to get a noise cert, anyone can get it done any time, and a wof inspector can ask for it if they think its louder than factory. I suspect there will be a lot more noise certs being asked for now that NZTA is clamping down on wof inspectors when the noise testing thing came in, it was quite common, id get a lot of calls about it, over the years it has died off. sometimes ill get a few calls on a Monday about it because the cops have had a weekend of handing out stickers baffles can be removeable, theres nothing saying it cant be, the only rule around that is the exhaust must be designed so it requires tools to change things

Is that hub for a gy6, ie a 125? Or a qmb139? Or are they the same hub for both?

Is it going to be slammed enough with a straight axle?

Any of those would be ok, I used big rivets once

P clip works well

Yeah its quite funny to drive something powerful on snow tyres, they are shit

Not off the top of my head sorry There are pre approved ones listed on the lvvta website which don't require design approval ie heidts, rods by reid Then there are a bunch of American ones some of which are pretty good, but need design approval - not difficult to do, but if there are things that don't meet our requirements then you may have to change stuff - this can sometimes mean making new arms correct size, re welding things If it was me I'd look at one of the pre approved ones, even if they are a bit more expensive, to start with it can work out the same cost or cheaper Have done US trucks with both heidts and JR front ends , and with chassis mods to suit, can make for a truck that handles really well If you are not after a big improvement in handling, it's probably not worth spending the $$ over setting up your stock suspension well

if you can get a heat shield in between the mount and the exhaust, with an air gap between both parts, then that would be ok, but you might be better off moving the mount to give yourself more room for a better flowing exhaust it surprises me how often 1uz conversions have a fair amount of effort, $ and time spent on them, but when it comes to the exhaust, more often than not they end up with a stock manifold, or some sort of log manifold because its easier. they go so much better with even a basic set of headers

sweet! looks good

Hah Went to go for a ride today cause sunshine Scoot no go. No spark. About 2 hrs later found a shitty connection at the cdi unit Ah well at least I learned some stuff about vespas

Not 100% sure yet but probably exhaust, wheels, paint, might do some engine mods, can get fancy suspension so might do that, smaller front guard Some dual purpose tyres might be a good idea for exploring