cletus

And fitted my aliexpress tubeless rims. Not too bad for china spec parts, little bit of de burring on the valve holes and had to tidy up the threads in the wheel nuts they were supplied with. Swapped the rear tyre to the front, left the spare and cover off, made a thing to hold rego and wof tags.

Much to @RUNAMUCK s dissapointment I spent more time fiddling with 2 wheeled things instead of working on the plymouth. A mod that the internet says is good is to drill out 2 extra holes in the air filter, I couldn't see how it would help that much but I did it anyway and went up to a bigger jet. Tried a 104, and a 106, it seems good with the 106 so I left that in it. I don't know if it's any faster, my butt dyno can't pick up changes that small...

Do the spokes rub on the caliper itself, or the pad carrier part?

5mm spacer + toyota= probably need longer wheel studs Or possibly

you might find it feels better once you get some lower profile tyres on it, stock balloon spec tyres and stiff suspension always feels a bit odd. like the tyres are doing the 'springing' what have you got the shock stiffness set at?

good, dark side, you are on it, rubs hands together, etc

Had this on trademe but nobody wanted it Logical thing to do is more mods instead, put a longer rear shock in, jacked up the front with some spacers on top of the springs, and some china pit bike knobbly tyres on it. Done some off roading this afternoon, it's good on grass and gravel, not so good on steep hills. And a bit odd on the road, the rear feels slippery around corners, unsurprisingly

not far to go now!! that bent rod was pretty impressive.

yeah that thing does a pretty good skid

Solo pesting today, went for a tour around whitford, beachlands, maraetai, clevedon, thru twilight road, some off roading at a new subdivision where I found a vespa kickstart lever will bring you to a sudden stop if it gets caught in gorse.

Got an exhaust that releases more of the ringaningding Had a 94 jet in it, I got a 96 and a 99. Put the 99 in and it seems to like it. It goes much better now. Went up a hill at wot for a bit and cut ignition, pulled the plug. Looks ok from what I can find on the internet? @Raizer what you reckon?

Nope. I keep the judging thing completely seperate from work.

I have to help with judging at 4&rotary show on friday night. Usually don't finish till 4am ish So I've already packed a bike in the van, and a mattress so I can go straight to the meet point, have a snooze, wake up and go scootering

Torsion bars- if they are stuck, undo the front lower arm inner nut, whack the housing where the torsion bar goes in , and get a big pry bar in and push the arm back, away from the k member Probably obvious but undo the torsion bar adjuster and remove it before you start I have used a pair of vice grips with aluminum sheet as soft jaws on the bar so you don't damage it, then whack the vice grips to push the bar back

You might be able to give yourself a bit more clearance with an Allen head bolt There isn't a set minimum but I'd aim for at least 5mm . If you have to run spacers anyway it's not a big deal to space it out a bit more

Some more progress. One thing I have learned from the job I do, is sometimes it's better to pay for someone to do stuff instead of having a go and making a hash of it myself. Both front floor pans had some rust on the top side which I don't have the skill, gear, or patience to do a nice job of. @RXFORD/ Matt at tin tricks in east tamaki is a friend of mine, he picked it up and fixed the floors, while it was there he deleted the heater motor and hose holes in the firewall and made a new part of the inner guard which gets rid of an ugly bit where the battery box used to live, and made it match the other side. My photos are a bit ham but I'm stoked with how it turned out

Did you consider any other similar hybrid type vehicles before deciding on a prius?

The decibel test is done with the engine not 'loaded' ie in neutral, take it up to the test rpm, start the meter reading, then let it drop back to idle

retail price is $580 for a basic cert inspection, plus hoist hire at a workshop if necessary extra set of wheels- there isn't a set price for that, stuff like that I base on how long it takes and how helpful the owner is. Ie if theres another set of wheels in the boot and I have to swap them over myself, then it would cost more, than if the owner swaps them while im doing the paperwork

the way I interpret it, if the exhaust met the decibel requirements in the open position, you could have the switch inside the vehicle and you could change it whenever

Yep that's how I read it. So if it passes in 'open' mode it should be ok

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf 2.1 has the requirements for what you are talking about

Bear in mind that is the rules for certification - so a reset spring requires cert- there's nothing allowing a reset spring in the wof modification threshold Also reset coils are not often very good- you remove travel but the spring rate remains the same, and often people get springs reset because an aftermarket spring doesnt go low enough Leaf springs have the advantage of being able to add more leafs to up the spring rate

still have the category for doing them, but we now refer noise certs to someone else for a few reasons. the main one being it was costing us money- I worked out over a 6 month period, just under half of the people booked in didn't turn up. because im mobile, I had to organize a site to test at each time, and at $50 if it failed, we were not covering the time it took to drive there, and people would still moan at the cost because the test was pretty quick if it failed it started getting in the way of other work so we gave our meter to one of the guys who is based in a shop, it makes more sense to do noise certs based from one place rather than battle traffic

This.