cletus

I like your work. Making good progress Aliexpress has a range of silicone joiners which are reasonably priced and the quality seems ok, havnt put any pressure in them yet though Have you got enough 'downhill' from the turbo for it to drain into the sump? Especially if you end up on a big uphill incline

The Santa of Sharns

Pg hydraulics in east tamaki. Not cheap but top quality work

What did he say when you caught him? Any chance of getting $ out of him?

Probably worth trying that first, otherwise you may just end up with a bunch of scratches to try and polish out

You can, but it has to be sealed off from the passenger compartment Have seen a few cars with fuel surge tanks and pumps mounted in the spare wheel well and a sealed lid over the well Its probably easier to mount it under the car if you can though

Are you trying to stop the tyre rubbing the inner guard?

It says 124cc on the side so that's what it must be. Tortron would never operate outside the law I'm sure.

It feels quite odd being in a car with coloured tints. Like wearing these

I cant think of any rules that say you have to have a park feature on a transmission

The only time you have to have locating rings is if you are fitting wheel spacers Otherwise as long as something centers the wheel you'll be fine. That includes tapered wheel nuts or shank nuts

I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the bw diff in my vg has survived All I've ever had to do was replace an axle with a twisted spline and it's done a million burnouts and a lot of drag racing. I pulled it apart once to check it and it was fine 25 spline axles, 2.92 ratio, 4 spider lsd with some extra preload

I'll measure it tomorrow, but the tunnel is offset in a valiant and it looks like it all lines up ok

Before I bought the 8.8 I did price up a new 9" build, and it was cost reasons for going the way I did. I got a quote for a new housing and axles which was going to be about $2300, I cant remember how much a center was going to be exactly but I recall a new one with a good lsd was another 2-2.5k or thereabouts, and that was without a brake setup. So around 5k? The 8.8 wasn't as cheap as I thought it was going to be but it was less. These are approximate prices but pretty close to what I've spent $500 for the whole diff including brakes from a wrecker $900 for rebuild parts, ring and pinion etc $900 for housing mods and rebuild $200 new discs and brake pads $150 for another short axle and some better spider gears $150 Fancy diff cover $100 spring pads, paint, brake pipes etc So around $3k ready to go This is the first time I've added it up so I guess time will tell if it is an economic win or not

Some 8.8 pics for those who are interested Good points? Pretty cheap due to the rest of an explorer being a turd and prone to failure Internet says they are pretty strong, they were used in many different high performance or heavy duty applications in us models Lots of bits and different ratios available easily from rockauto 5x114.3 pattern, 1/2 wheel studs 2 short axles and narrow one side of the housing and it's the right width for a valiant (57''ish) Explorer ones, which are the only common one found in nz, are usually lsd, 31 spline, 3.7 ratio, disc brake with internal drum handbrake Bad points? C clip axles which can be a safety issue Wheel bearings run directly on the axle surface so once the hardening wears off the axle is bung Spider gears seem prone to damage, I've disassembled a few and found chips and wear on the gears in all of them

If you are jacking the car up via the body or chassis then the wheels should drop down at least 40mm, if they dont drop then the shocks have no 'droop' travel ie they are at full extension at ride height. This can make a car ride nearly as bad as sitting on the bump stops

I've seen it driving down the road, it looks like its sitting on the bumpstops from how it looks haha

Definitions of what is scratch built has changed last year https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2018_Modified_Production_&_Scratch-built_Low_Volume_Vehicle_Definitions.pdf

I hit a bit of a brick wall with progress because at some point I want to paint the engine bay and underside, and was trying to do things in a way which meant I could get that done, get the engine sorted and painted and in for good and then do things like make the exhaust afterwards Then I realised that was stupid and I was wasting time mucking around trying to figure out things with the engine on the stand, and whacked the motor and box back in . I need to get everything done then I'll take it apart for paint last Shifter mounted, i wanted it up high so it's not far from the steering wheel to the shifter, @RXFORD/matt from tin tricks helped me out again with that by folding up a shifter mount and putting some fancy holes in it And put the carb and hat on, the bonnet doesnt shut so I'll have to figure out what I'm going to do with that

Could you put the angle bracket on the original anchorage on the floor?

@Kimjon Would this option work for you?

No, you would need to replace any strength removed with something else

I just added the pics for interests sake because it was relevant to the discussion, there was more to it than those pics, I left all the other bits out because that info is the property of someone else

I never tell anyone that a part will be certifiable unless it's obviously ok or I've seen it before, because I've had someone threaten me with legal action over a part I said looked ok in pictures but when in person it had obvious issues. Try asking the guy you are using for cert, he may have seen them before