cletus

AFAIK aussie a body upper ball joints were the same small joint the whole way through, B body joint is larger. US a body changed to the same bigger joint mid 70s I've got some aussie a body arms with joints if you want comparison measurements

Cool work van! Max points for using something older with some character instead of just ticking up a rangluxeradovara

Tyres. I've been looking at different sizes on 6 and 8 inch rims since I got the wheels trying to get a combo that looks right 225 60 15 on 15x8 rear 185 65 15 on 15x6 front I like the outcome, looks exactly how I wanted. As per other pics, the colour is hard to photograph. It looks more green irl and the match between wheel and body looks better for some reason?

Yeah only certs done after 1/2/21 will be on there

The certifier takes all the pics

Tag number and last 6 digits of the vin is what you need to access the info on the LVVTA website I did not know you could link to it on a forum...

Obtained some standard front side lights/reflectors to replace ugly clear and chrome ones

Yep that could be done if you do it like you say If it was me I'd try and incorporate some extra gussets rather than just 2 bits of flat bar butt welded on , some coilover brands do this, some do not

Official fail sheet looks like this, pm me a pic if you want me to have a look for you

Yep you can take to a different certifier no problem You will need a vin number put on the car before you can get a lvv cert finalized, the VTNZ/VINZ/AA can do that without doing the entry certification check (you dont want to get that done as you only get 28 days to get the whole thing finished) Once you have your LVV cert then get the entry certification check done Usually pretty simple if you dont need a repair cert, it's basically a more extensive wof if you have all the right paperwork

This might be a good option? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/chevrolet/gear-boxes/listing/2979138143

I hope for your license's sake your wrist heals with less rotating travel than before lol I dont think I'd be able to own something that could do 2x the speed limit without cracking a sweat

Probably something you need to discuss with your certifier to make sure you are on the same page, as that is something that isn't specifically covered in the rule book. The most common scenario where that mod happens is KP starlets, I've done 3 or 4 of those where that mod has been done and the usual method is some strengthening the top shock mount = stitch welding the joints in the oe panel, making a brace that goes between the two top mounts and ties it back down to the floor which has a crossmember underneath If you can tie it into the cage that would be good if the bars are in a suitable place The lower mount looks fairly strong as is so maybe a bit of extra welding for peace of mind

The tape mark on the dash was from the boss being on 90 demerit points, he drove around for a year with the date on a piece of masking tape, when most of the points came back off his license haha

Van went bye byes today, sadface.jpg I mucked around with springs a bit to raise it and fit some un modified bumpstops so it was all legit, first gen rav4 rear springs fit perfect and drop it halfway between stock, and where it was with the mystery springs in it. Went and picked up the chev again and put the new cam angle sensor in , no more fault code or check engine light, and runs better, yuss.

Weld a morris crank handle on for a familiar way of doing it?

And another from the internet that I like

Sweet! I like the stock wheels but low look, this is a mates GMC

Kk covered the mounting The hard part is if it is a fixed back bucket with high sides you have to get the belt to fit through the slots Which can be tricky to achieve

Technically yes does require cert

Dunno if it's any help or if they are the same or not but I was at zebra in manukau on sunday, there was a XG? falcon ute with a disc rear end that still had the calipers and cables on it

I realised I was posting in your build thread, what a n00b Just a bit of 3mm steel bolted to the camera, with 2 very grunty magnets. I assume neodymium or whatever fancy magnets are .

When did it start doing it? That is slightly puzzling

If you've just had it balanced and its spot on, and the joints are phased correctly I'd look at u joint angles Is it single or 2 piece ?

First thing would be figure out if its driveshaft speed or wheel speed, that will narrow it down Ie at 92.7 kph is it going wubwubwubwubwubwubwub Or RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR