cletus

I'm surprised the threshold didn't include some sort of limit on lifts in the last update, or specify that replacement shocks should be the same length as oem this wouldn't need a cert according to the threshold if it just had the springs and shocks fitted, and it had a page of stuff wrong with it

Fuck cars I'm going to start a more lucrative career in wind chimes

I wonder if you did that and put some diesel in the shock and sealed up the shock valving , and do a jump Would you get a really good rebound?

Sorry I dont have a lot to do with repair cert guys so dont know anyone down that way, probably best to ask your panelbeater if he has one he recommends

Nice! Is that that Cadbury purply blue colour?

If it was me, if it hasn't had other repairs that would need repair cert, and it hasn't got a whole bunch of fresh underseal and paint etc I'd just send it through compliance and see what they say A letter from the panelbeater wouldn't achieve anything, if anything you could pay a repair certifier to write you up something saying it doesnt require it

From memory the later discs are bigger diameter, the caliper is the same, just has a different bracket

You probably wont notice any difference. I dont think exhaust shop benders go to 3'' usually so that might be why they dont want to do it? Would have to buy bends and cut it up/weld together for 3"

Because I'm a wanker, i made some other exhaust options, a mufflerless tail pipe that bolts on in place of the muffler, and a turn down that can bolt on to the 3 flanged sections, so behind the diff, in front of it, or at the front pipe, so I can have varying levels of loud Exhaust is ready for paint now. I'll probably get the front pipes HPC coated again

Is it having rust repairs done at the panel shop?

My van has fly by wire throttle/ efi/ the butterfly thing controlled by the ecu When I blocked the egr it idled funny, I removed the throttle plate from the shaft and left everything else connected, no engine check light and it runs and idles fine

Good work! That's a short list. Front pads are usually the key thing to get right , if it has vented discs, get a really good quality pad and it should be fine. You can try the brake test yourself with a stopwatch, if it can do 5 stops from 100 to 0 under 4.4 sec each time, in a total of 3 minutes max, it should pass

Correct. If it's on the plate then it's already covered and doesn't need to be certed again. As long as it's safe, ie it doesnt have nails welded to it facing the drivers face

I dont see a problem with doing that if it's only offset by 11mm, just make it neat and tidy

Do you mean having an electric cut out to dump the exhaust before the mufflers, but then having it capped so the electric cut out cant be used? That would be one of those situations where it doesnt say you cant do it in the rules, but I wouldn't cert it because it is obvious the cap would be left off so the electric cut out could be used A bit like people who have externally venting wastegates who put a cap over the outlet so it's not venting at all any more

I thought this one looks a bit more interesting/better than most flat decks

I had a BA XR8 ute, it had a live axle, and a 2 piece shaft and the center and rear was CV, cant remember what was at the gearbox end

We dont work in fractions now, the conversion is 3/4 race cam equals 75%racecam nowadays Stage 3 is probably 31.7%racecam by today's conversion rate.

Different lengths for different torque curves for each cylinder to even it out over a wider rpm range?

Yes, should be sorted.

Man what a mission. Looks good though.

Those original exhaust ports are tiny! Is that unique to twin dizzy engines?

Best to re do the outside ones with doubler plates and get it all certed at once If belts fitted pre 92 the belt anchorages dont have to comply but I've had customers spend more time trying to prove the mod was done prior to 92 than it would take to fit the plates. At least you know you wont have any trouble later and it's done safely Cert cost usually starts at $580 but if it's only belts and everything else is stock might be able to do it a little bit cheaper

5mm bolts are much easier and neater to use rather than rivets too