cletus

Rear lowers will be an issue if they have an adjuster on the inner bush end but it depends how far outboard the shock mount is, LVVTA does not allow any side loading on a threaded joint, sometimes if it is within the load rating of the joint we can pass it if we can do calculations to prove it's ok Fronts if its upper arms, have not done any hardrace altezza ones but the usual issue on that design of suspension is when the car is low enough to need camber arms = the upper ball joint hits the body before the bump stop limits the travel= the car has to be raised= then it doesnt need camber arms any more Also the adjustable arms are usually taller or longer or a different shape in the ball joint mount area so they make the problem worse than with the standard arms In general, hardrace stuff is ok, you do have to make sure the welding is good though as some is shit. The reseller here swears they are all welded by robot but I've seen a few where the robot forgot to turn the gas on, the robot missed the join, or the robot fucked up the weld, ground it down and had another go. Silly robots

What car is it?

A mount attached to the side of a chassis rail has to span the whole height of the rail So if your chassis is RHS you cant butt weld a flat plate to half way down the rail as it will cause cracks. So you could either make gussets that go full height of the rail, or weld a reinforcing plate on first which I'm picking is what you are talking about

You're a brave man Rust like that gives me the heebie jeebies

Shame you need forward and reverse, otherwise a 5hp Briggs would be lol to power a lathe with

Sweet! How much tarmac vs gravel do you plan on riding?

Have a look at the modification threshold on lvvta.org.nz. that shows what you can do without cert It wouldn't be much though. Tyre size would be limited by no more than 5% greater overall diameter, offset rules limits how sticky outy the wheels can be, and lift would be limited by what springs you can fit in a factory shock and still have 40mm droop

Yeah I dunno how he thinks hes going to get out of there without a light bar

Nice car. Welcome to OS!

What's the last pic of? I cant see anything Also lol at @piazzanoob plate. Sounds like something my dad says. Good to see the galaxie is mobile again

Yeah the surface area of the friction that it relies on to jam the side gears is fuck all compared to even oem lsd units Looks like a less effective version of a lock right unit that costs similar. Although I guess there are applications where one of these might be too aggressive https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-1610-lr

Mine looks a bit different I think I wired it so the engine runs by itself and the switch earths out the coil, lights etc run off the key

Cant help you because I too am retarded But there was a trap with my one which I'm not sure yours has, the ignition switch has 2 positions , start and run... start has a rpm limit so it cant get away on you Took me a while to figure why it would idle but not rev

Yes definitely get that sorted. Contact your certifier and he should be able to get you a new one

Have you considered milling your own wood for use building things? Would be pretty cool to be able to make something from wood you cut down from your own land

^all those contribute to fade problems- weight makes it worse, more power makes it worse cause it can get up to speed quicker so less recovery time between stops, and bigger wheels because of the leverage as you mention, and bigger wheels are usually heavier, especially on 4wds

In my experience once they have been welded, they often crack again at the same place or at the edge of the weld I had 3x 19"rims welded by a wheel repair specialist, they were all fucked again within a year. That was on cheap wheels on a car that did a lot of km though so yours might last better

Can get a safari to pass the 5 stop test, usual easy combo is the 2 pot later caliper, slotted discs, and some really good pads. Pads is where most people run into trouble, they go into repco or supercheap and ask for the best pad, which usually equals the most expensive they have in stock at the time, which might still be junk . some wilwood/other fancy name brand brake kits come with rubbish pads to keep the cost down, fail a brake test and the guy with the 250k hot rod says "what are you on about m8 it's a wilwood kit it should be fine "

NEIN

I did a bit of research on that type of battery, they dont vent under normal circumstances but have a venting system for if they get over pressurised- like if they get overcharged. Checked with LVVTA and that means they have to be vented outside the car, either by a vent tube if the battery has the provision for it, or put inside a sealed box which vents outside the car. Protected against short circuits I've always interpreted as having the positive terminal covered so a stray wheel brace in the boot or similar cant short the 2 terminals, and the cable routed away from sharp edges etc

Cant see why not if the hinge and catch mounts are strong enough, and the window is the right kind of glass , ie has a safety mark

A long as you used high tensile welding gas that will be fine

Hello Richard, There isn't a bolt size spec for attaching a battery for cert, it is pretty standard practice to attach a normal lead acid battery with 2 'j' bolts so if you do it to motorsport specs you will be fine You could do it either way that you have described if I was making something myself I'd probably use 4x 6mm bolts to attach the frame to the floor then bolt the battery to the frame Words from the rules-

Previously certed items only need a quick once over to make sure they are ok, but generally are covered by the original cert. So in your case, a certifier would check things affected by the swap, like the gearbox mounting, driveshaft, brake pedal etc, but wouldn't have to cert the engine mounts or do the emissions side of the paperwork as that is covered by the original cert, but would have a quick look at the mounts to make sure they were not held together with chewing gum, tek screws or cable ties

Try Iain at autolign in mt Wellington