cletus

Have heard yarns of people working in chrome shops having very poor teeth because of the chemicals?

Neat project! Looks pretty solid for its age I had a valiant that was dereg since the 90s, nothing came up on carjam but it was on NZTAs database

And rummaged in my box of coilovers , I've got a plan to make some rear shocks for it The biggest problem with the usual axle flip (the diff housing gets put on top of the spring instead of underneath) is shock angles- they are on a big angle factory, then when it gets lowered 6 inches the shocks end up on stupid angles and dont do anything so the big lump of a diff flops around all over the place The best driving slammed ones, have the shock brackets moved to straighten them up, and decent shocks so they actually have some hope of controlling all the unsprung weight I've got 3 pairs of adjustable damping shocks with the same threads so I'll figure out the best length and make some top and bottom mounts

Have been collecting parts for slammage, got some new belltech spindles and 3" lower springs. Called into a workshop and a guy there had bought a C10 and wasn't going to use a lot of parts on it so I got some spring mount plates and axle flip brackets , and set of 15x8 factory earlier model steelies for $100 so that was a good score, gives me another wheel option, I'll get them powdercoated silver and hopefully the stock 98 center caps work I like this one , it has later model van center caps though

Just keep in mind if you change it, then it's a modification post 92 and it would have to be certed as per the rules of now

Will be fine as its pre 92. Date of first registration proves the belts are fitted prior to 92, as it would have been a requirement to have lap and diagonal belts fitted when it was first registered in 89

What is the date of first registration on the cars? It's on the rego label

I think the ones I was talking about were a much smaller seperate handbrake caliper that were no good I have certed something with those 4 pot calipers with the handbrake inside, I have a vague memory of the handbrake lever ratio having to be spot on or there isn't enough force for them to work properly

It's at the stage now where it looks like I've done fuck all Which is sort of true. Have been too busy to get a lot of time on it But have been chipping away at small jobs Carb rebuilt Alternator mounts made Throttle cable done Mod and painted the carb hat Calipers cleaned up and painted Radiator finished Hose shapes mocked up just have to find something that sort of fits Turbo oil drain 90% sorted just need a fitting for the block end Takes ages when everything needs blasting and painting and then it seems best to leave it for a week to harden properly

Use a cup brush, any bog that doesnt come off must be stuck well enough to stay, more bog over the top, done. I'll show myself out

I'm hopeful, although realistic about it not being, as effective on a petrol engine. Chev came with a set of new unused headers that get rid of egr. needs all the help it can get to use less fuel haha

I had a customer get caught out by that rule, he'd had a full turbo back flash exhaust fitted on his late model v8 landcruiser and didnt have the dpf any more... They are quite expensive new, apparently. haha

What year is it?

Egr blocked off on my diesel van made a noticeable increase in fuel economy as well

Have a look in the CCM it specifies what size bolt etc they need to be Be aware if you are making your own, the welding doesnt agree with a high tensile bolt Also threaded link bars often come loose with articulation, a solution is to use a heim joint /rose joint/spherical bearing at one end for movement and a bush at the other to reduce harshness

Is the 20v head frowned upon in 4age circles? I haven't had much to do with them apart from a local bogan I went to school with had one in a ratty DX corolla and it went quite hard for what it was. I think it ran high 13s or something? And could do burnouts in 3rd gear which is the true measurement of hp

or perhaps adding an extra intake valve? 5 per cylinder for a total of 20 valves

I should be clear, "inverted" in this discussion is relating to leaf springs with a curve going the wrong way, not flipped, ie upside down, that is 100% not legal

Also the spring design plays a big part in how something rides, especially when someone resets them Ie a lot of commercial van or ute type vehicles have a dual rate leaf pack where there is 2 or 3 thinner springs, and 1 or two thicker springs like the van ones earlier in the thread. Unloaded, the suspension is just using the softer thinner leafs, then when you load it up, they sit down on top of the thicker "overload" leafs If you reset them and the main soft springs are then sitting on the overload springs, that makes it really stiff , same if they are reset higher and the overload leafs are sitting against the main leaf Most car springs just have a pack of the same thickness leafs

It's one of those things that "works", but is not ideal. A normal leaf spring gets longer as it compresses which pushes the shackle away from the leaf, and the spring eye at the shackle end gets closer to the chassis. When a spring is inverted, as it compresses, it gets shorter, which pulls the shackle straighter, which wants to push the spring eye back down away from the chassis, opposite to where the spring wants to go I dont know how much actual difference this makes to how a car drives or whether you can feel the difference, I guess you would need to do some proper back to back testing to ever know. But I doubt anyone would ever bother because someone who is happy to run a leaf spring inverted , is probably only concerned with how they can get a vehicle low, as easily as possible, not make it handle well No factory vehicle , performance or otherwise, has leaf springs that are inverted as far as I know

Funnily, theres nothing in the rules that say they cant be inverted. but it's not ideal, the spring and shackle start working against each other. usually if someone wants to go past 'flat' then you get the eyes reversed instead of making the spring go the wrong way And as @Bling said add a leaf to make up for the reduced travel Yes on the 40mm droop requirements, same rules apply

Everything. Front, back, both sides, interior, engine bay and any visible mods under the car is the requirements for photos the certifier has to supply with the paperwork

I was going to suggest a hairdryer or something to warm up the rubber to hopefully let it relax into it's new position. But then I thought nah nah poor old sheepers has had terrible glazing related luck with this car and that will probably melt his side windows or make them turn purple or shatter or something. So dont listen to me. Then I saw your wheels again and thought they might look good with these on to break up the blackness?

Yeah the biggest issue /most asked question I get is wheels- if a car is certed on 15x8 wheels then under the old plate deal it was a free for all as long as the wheels were 15x8 then you were sweet Now there will be pics of the wheels on the cert, I've had dozens of people having a moan that they wont be able to swap wheels. I dont think the intention with the old plate system was to allow any wheel of that size to be ok but it has become that way, I rang LVVTA and asked what the deal was with different wheels of the same size on the new tag system and the answer was "should be ok" So I guess we will have to see what happens. I personally dont think it should be a free for all if just the size matches, as there are many situations where changing wheels even with the same size causes issues, had a chev truck come through the other day with same size wheels as cert, but the load rating was way less than the GVM Stud length, wheel nut/seat type, and offset differences causing tyre rub are other potential problems I had a guy with a low rider with tiny tyres and cheap knock off rims which failed on a few issues cert his car on 14x7 alloys with some adaptors so that the cert appeared to be for the wheels he wanted, which didnt comply

I got charged $2800 to blast underneath and engine bay, paint the underside black and prime the engine bay. Then I spent another $250 at the painters for them to fix the primer overspray all over the black underneath Then I had to paint the parts underneath that they missed And fix the ripped hoodlining. Autoblast in glenfield should be avoided at all costs