cletus

Factory anchorage- you don't have to do anything, just bolt your seat to it. If you drill a new hole- it's a new anchorage- then you follow the seat mounting recipes in either the seat standard on lvvta.org.nz or in the seats chapter of the CCM

As mentioned above 5 or 6mm will be fine The only thing to consider with using flat plate, is if it's going to flex, ie if the seat mount holes are close to the floor mount holes it's probably going to be fine, if they are not close then the flat plate can flex a bit, this can be fixed by using a gusset or another bit of flat welded on its edge In fact 3mm would probably be fine if it had a gusset Leave your seatbelt attached to the floor, not the seat, this makes life much easier

The worst part about all this is when you posted things about datsuns etc , I thought this tricky fellow has got a gtr! But then I didn't write it in the internet before you told us! Now I just look like an idiot don't I! Well I would if I mentioned it, if I don't say anything then nobody will know. Good Anyway, you should put a 2jz in it

Made a new insert for the muffler, went down to a 2" pipe from 2.25", and extended the tip slightly so it's not dumping into a huge tip as much Forgot to take a photo before wrapping it but imagine a 2 inch pipe with about 60 million 5mm holes in it, starting in straight uniform even spacing, but rapidly devolving into just drill the holes /nobody's ever going to see them/this sucks/ why didn't I just buy some perf tube and make this next week Wrapped in bunnings steel wool, this takes 2 boxes @$4.90 each for future reference Results are not bad, it's quieter at idle, will report back after a few kms for the packing to settle

No idea on what size a caravan spring is, but could you convert the spring seats to take a 62mm id coilover type spring, then you have a wide range of length and rate options?

Nerd comparisons Potato bike does about 6.3l/100 Which doesn't seem too bad given its carb, heavy, as sophisticated as a bag of hammers, and it was ridden with enthusiasm

Congrats on the award, pretty impressive given how quickly you put it together Need to sleep for 3 days straight now haha

I can't find this particular model on the atlas copco website so I can't figure out where the pressure adjustment is

Not yet but I will now, previously wind noise is enough to notice hearing being affected after a long ride, but this pipe makes it 10x worse

I had a friend do clear over bare steel, but it got rust worms under the clear, which turned into a mission to remove Might not be an issue on a land-rover though haha

This is not very effective at muffling It's a bit much tbh Ears are not the same after a half hour ride

I've seen a vgg video where he describes what he uses, before he was selling it, and if you speak fluent Derek you can figure it out , ie earth ghost juice- mineral spirits I would suggest to buy it straight from him, but I don't think it can be shipped overseas? I think it was mostly mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil and a bit of wd40 or something like that

Lathe is handy, whittled up some 5mm engine mount spacers to fix the exhaust fouling problem and finished fitting the heat shields

Time to release more potato noises, got a new zorst pipe While the exhaust was off I thought I'd better check the weak point on these engines, which is the cam chain tensioners, they often wear out at very low mileage, they are plastic and have quite stiff springs. There's one that's easy to get to and another that's a bit more work, pushrods, rockers, lifters and cams all have to come out When they fail they break up and go in the oil pump and carnage ensues Easy to check, just take stuff off, cam cover off, look These are worn enough to need replacement so I'll do that soon, that would be an opportunity to do cams at the same time , and there's a few options on upgraded tensioner systems etc depending how many dollars you want to spend, there's a kit to convert to later model twin cam style hydraulic tensioners Anyway, bolted the exhaust on, I guess if it was a v rod I'd be finished here Put the muffler on and started it, goodness me it's a bit rowdy, looks like they put the louvers in the muffler the wrong way around to make it noisy, I'll see what it's like but I'll probably make a more quiet insert Also the heat shield doesn't fit at the front , there's not enough room between the front pipe and the frame , might need a trim, or a spacer under the front engine mount might do it

Is it now not going as hard for wat it is?

The correct answer is only a certifier is allowed to remove and replace a cert plate, anything else is illegal and bad. Same with vin tags, except only a tsda/testing station can remove or replace those A replacement cert plate is about $50 plus however much a certifier charges you for their time An outlaw would probably give the plate a gentle warm up with a hair dryer or heat gun and slide a razor down behind it or tooth floss or fishing nylon to release the adhesive, which would prevent the plate being damaged But that would be illegal so don't do that

Yeah on this model they are kind of high up factory, because it's got bar risers and a extra bracket it sticks up a lot more It's also on a dumb angle which makes it slightly difficult to see and the housing is slightly munted so I have a plan to reduce the height and fix the munt and angle Repositioning the speedo up high is a practical thing (you don't have to look down at the tank all the time) that I think has become part of the "look" of this type of bike

Scenic potatoes

That's flipping sweet, gud jerb wish you were my dad tbh

If I was in your shoes I'd just keep riding how you are comfortable and what feels right to you Maybe have a yarn with the guys you ride with and see what they say? If they are getting annoyed then find some slower riders to ride with or just go by yourself, or tell them not to wait and catch up at the end of the ride, if they are not dicks they should understand the situation and deal with it appropriately It sounds like you have a good sense of self preservation , it would be a shame to get hurt because you're trying to not annoy some other riders

Paint, not sure on colour yet Some cosmetic tidy ups , frame and engine paint It's got a fiberglass front guard so I'll find a factory steel one Small headlight fairing and possibly chin spoiler 2-1 pipe Step up type seat Possibly twin disc front and some engine mods This kind of thing

Cool, thanks they are pretty simple, there's a couple of companies that make them. They are basically a panhard bar for the front and rear mounts to stop it all moving sidewards

Spent a few hours hooning around on it today on some roads I enjoy on my other bike. The handling is actually a lot better than I was expecting. It's a lot of fun on windy roads it doesn't do anything bad apart from the pegs and side stand hit the ground on tight corners, so you have to enter a bit slower, if you come in a bit hot and the pegs start grinding you're kind of fucked because you can't lean any more This dyna series of bike is known for something called the "dyna wobble" , this is because the swing arm is mounted to the gear box and motor assembly, which is rubber mounted to the frame, so the rear wheel can kind of move around a bit, this is usually when the mounts are a bit chooched. Makes for interesting mid corner handling. This one does not do any wierd stuff so the mounts must be good ish The lack of hp doesn't seem to matter, it has bundles of torque and it goes good enough to get yourself into mischief so I'm not too worried about that Brakes, are not super awesome but are probably good enough, it's a bit odd getting used to how much rear brake you can/have to use One other positive, it seems a bit easier on my back, the amount of spine ouchies was less than on the honda, I wonder if a bit of extra bike weight helps with that? In all, I like it more now after spending a bit of time riding it

Not sure what comp they are but it's enough to make them sound like they aren't going to start half the time