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cletus

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Everything posted by cletus

  1. I've done one car with those , I would think they are probably very similar quality wise to yellowspeed/xyz/d2 etc Ie, for a road car, ok Making sure the bump stop limits travel before the front upper ball joint hits the body is probably the main thing to look out for
  2. There was probably thousands of utes sold new from dealers with lift kits that didn't comply I went to a large dealer once to cert a vehicle that had big wheels or something, it also had strut spacers and longer shackles . I told them I had to cert those as well, and it had problems which meant it couldn't be certed as it was Apparently the supplier of the parts had told them that they didn't need cert so there was a whole lot of utes new from the dealer which weren't legal because of 3 year wofs, it didn't come up as a problem and I think if the dealer was doing the wof and service it doesn't get picked up for ages Then it gets taken to a different place for a wof, knocked back and they ring me saying "there's been a rule change and now I need a fuckin cert, it's bullshit, it's been that way since new and it's fine"
  3. 20 years would probably be sensible then it would align with 20+ yo cars not needing to meet standards for importing etc
  4. I think if the solution to not being able to cert a bull bar is to remove the air bags, then nzta would likely get rid of the air bag removal thing , kind of surprised it's still there tbh They have already said late model stuff can't have ABS removed , if it's got stability control etc
  5. I don't know, last time I asked lvvta about this was for a car that had airbags removed and a cut front bumper beam for fmic But it still had to comply with frontal impact rules ie non cut bar
  6. I can see why nzta have done what they have done, even if I don't like it or totally agree with it. It's not hard to see that adding steel bars and 5mm thick steel plates to the front of a vehicle, makes it less safe for pedestrians and cyclists. Given their recent focus on lowering speed limits on "the road to zero" this is not surprising. It also makes sense that any modifications that are made to a vehicle should be checked to make sure it hasn't affected the vehicle in a negative way Up until now, for cert, this has meant making sure the bumper doesn't have sharp edges and it doesn't affect the crumple zone. Recently there was emphasis put on making sure bars didn't lean forward causing a pedestrian trap. On NA class vehicles, there was nothing about making sure air bag operation was not affected. This has been the part that has now changed, so it's either got to be factory, or have a bar that's been tested to still comply with a frontal impact standard (ie ARB or similar bar with an ADR sticker on it.) Lvvta or certifiers do not have the means to figure out if a bar complies with that, so we can't say it's OK, the responsibility goes back to the manufacturer to prove their product complies A fictitious but potentially feasible story- guy with a fully sick lifted hilux wants a custom bar, but when he slides off the road and into a tree and the airbag doesn't go off at the right time and he dies, his mum gets upset and starts blaming everyone but the son for his truck having this bar. Then the process of "who's fault is it?" starts. The guy who made it "it got a wof. Not my fault" Wof guy. "it was certed. Not my fault" The certifier. "I followed the requirements at the time. Not my fault" Lvvta. "These were the rules we had at the time which are approved by nzta. Not our fault" Nzta " well we had better make sure these bars don't affect how the air bags deploy, we can't test every single ute and bar combo and it's not our job anyway, must have proof of testing now"
  7. Just to note, this is not LVVTA that is coming up with these rules, it is NZTA . There has been a few things lately where LVVTA has tried to make things easier for people but NZTA has not wanted to play ball... ADAS systems, and any changes to them, is an example Utes, and typical modifications to them, seem to be a particular focus at the moment
  8. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/warrants-and-certificates/vehicle-equipment/bullbars/#:~:text=Bullbars can cause airbags to,activated can be expensive%2C too
  9. This is going to ruffle some feathers Basically, anything with an air bag, if fitted with an aftermarket front bar ie the thousands of 4wds in nz, has to be a frontal impact compliant bar
  10. Can use limit straps. You may run into issues with the spring being cut though- can only do that if the spring cup is designed for that ie the original spring has a end coil that isn't flat
  11. Among other things this weekend, Paint strip, quick blast, straightened ish, sprayed with some bunnings enamel paint, and got new tires in a slightly narrower size (155/80/13) and some second hand hubcaps gets the wheel situation sorted Also fixed /replaced bent and rusty bolts attaching axle and re greased wheel bearings. From this To this
  12. No it bolts into the back of the alt, has the brushes in it
  13. Drawbar finished. Just needs another coat of grey
  14. Will probably retrim the cushions as well at some point
  15. Yeah it's not too bad, mrs has been cleaning, she's organizing new curtains and we got some carpet to match
  16. OK. Since that last post, Nick the sparky got a replacement, new alternator again, tried that, no go. Took it off again, put regulator from 300km alt in to new one, worked. So regulators are the issue, that's a total of three different new regs either in new alternators or from a bosch box that didn't work Nick spoke to the warranty guy at their supplier who said "oh yeah, we've had a few problems with those" Fffffssssss Nick found a new old stock reg which had bosch part number etc on it , put that in , he came around this evening and we bolted it back on. Warranty guy said the alternator light MUST be 2 watt as well so replaced that (it was 3watt) So now I'm back to 14.2v with an all new alternator . Huzzah I must say, Nick has been an absolute top level GC, I think we are up to 5 visits in his own time coming out to my house to sort this problem out Ron wood auto electrical is his business , in Western springs
  17. I have a cable on the vg (a home brewed setup) which I fitted when it had the turbo on it , because I wanted more line pressure in the trans at lower throttle openings because it had lots of torque when it came on boost, even at half or less throttle, compared to what it would have had I left it all the same when I pulled the turbo stuff out. basically set it so that at WOT the cable is pulled all the way out It doesn't shift into 3rd until you're doing about 55-60 Probably better to shift a bit late, and a bit firm, than the other way. At least it won't slip or get hot Plymouth has a manual valve body and they are full pressure all the time. Which can be a bit harsh and clunky
  18. Kick down linkage and its adjustment is pretty important on torqueflites If it's shifting late, and at higher rpm, might be adjusted too long (or it might have a shift kit in it )
  19. Progress Went to pick a part and found a very second hand alternator the same, on an aussie assembled mitsi magna with 300k on it Cleaned all the shit off and swapped pulley off some other one I had in stock And it works. So that rules the car side out of it, must be a problem in the new alternator
  20. No, just a bulb It worked in the previous setup with the China bosch , the light comes on and goes off as soon as I start it. Comes on if you disconnect the sense wire Test bench has a belt drive, it's a pretty cool bit of gear, it's huge This has crossed my mind as the crank pulley is smaller than a normal sb mopar , it's off a marine engine. It is the same as it was with the previous alternator though. A big rev does not change it
  21. Yes, it has one , in which I have tried 1w, 3w, and 5w bulbs Also has a battery sense wire which runs all the way to the battery on a separate wire
  22. Ha, nope On to week 7 of not being able to figure it out. Alternator tests fine on test machine Alternator does not work on car Replaced battery cable, earth wire, made separate earth for alt, made bigger alt wire, wiring does what it should at alternator plug, bypass all this with another battery and sense wire completely separate to the car , nothing The alternator light flashes occasionally but alternator makes no charge. Nick the sparky is rather puzzled also as to why it doesn't work He has done more testing on the alternator this week and it works so fucked if I know. If it doesn't work this time I think I'll give up and adapt something else to it
  23. Genuinely stoked to see you get this done and legit, congrats Such a massive undertaking, I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it
  24. that is a huge improvement , looks sweet!
  25. Thanks! Gave it a once over with the waterblaster this afternoon, looks a lot better
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