cletus

I think some of the reasons for using 6 stud axles are the holes are further away from the 4x110 or whatever a Mazda is compared to a 5 stud axle And they are cheap and easy to find

@johnny.race would probably know what's involved I have not done it myself but it's common to use 6 stud axles in conversions for rotaries to make a 4 stud

^this x2 The disc looks pretty fucked (looks like it should have grooves in it which are worn off so it's probably done heaps of kms It's a gamble to reuse the pressure plate because you could fit it and do 5km or 50000 km before something breaks

Not heaps of low down torque but that makes it quite nice to ride imo. It seems to me that if you stay in the 1500-4000 range it is quite sedate, smooth, is still quick enough to get ahead of traffic etc If you use the other end of the tacho it goes pretty good though. I'm quite keen to run it at the drags, apparently they are good for mid 11s stock with a lighter rider, I'd be pretty stoked if it could do high 11s with a fatty on it

if the cert matches then it should be OK I have had to get reprints of cert tags when a dereg car gets re reg and ends up with a new 17 digit vin number instead of a chassis number though

In theory, yes. I can't think of anything like minimum dimensions or things like that that would prevent you from being able to do it However there's probably a lot of things that may trip you up, and make it a lot more challenging to build than a "normal" size car You would want to do a concept approval first before you start to make sure there are no legal issues with building something that small I doubt a Chinese made quad bike frame would get through cert, so you'd probably have to start from scratch there Because it would be registered as a new car, it would need things like a lap diagonal seatbelt, so it would need a suitable structure to mount it off, then you need to allow for interior impact zones, so that might dictate how small it can be internally tyres would need to be suitable for road/ car use and load rating, so you might be limited to what is available like 10" mini tyres? This is by no means a complete list of potential issues, just things that come to mind off the top of my head And at the end of it, it would still cost a similar amount to cert it as any other scratch built vehicle so there's a fairly high 'entry cost' despite the rest of the car being cheap to build There was a guy who tried for ages to get a quad bike legal that had been built from a wrx. From memory, the biggest stumbling block was , 4 wheels= ma class, car. So has to have a round steering wheel, and lap diagonal belts. Both of which change the whole look and design of the vehicle

05 Hornet CB900F

Bum tidied up a bit Rack off, stickers off, rego and wof moved out of the environment, guard chopped off a bit shorter, plate moved up. This will do for now Once I move the exhaust I'll do some small indicators and reg plate lamp and get rid of the guard completely

Exhaust is very quiet and I'm not a big fan of twin muffs up high , I'll probably change it to a single side muff. It does sound cool though, it's got a bit of a lope at idle which should sound good with the volume up a bit Adult video story was just to add to my yarn, but based on real life events There used to be an adult video shop in east tamaki that was on my way home, a fun game was to drive past and if there was someone going in or out, toot and wave like you knew them

I decided I wanted a bigger bike, I'd been going over all sorts of different options for ages but ended up leaning towards something japanese and reliable I went into a harley dealer once but felt weird, like when your aunty sees you walk out of an adult video store Thanks to @MACKAZ for having a look at it for me , it was in whangarei so I got biketranz to deliver it Pretty happy with it, I always find it interesting to see how the type of vehicle it is, influences how you ride/drive it. I thought a big bike may encourage riding like a diddle and going 1 million kph everywhere but this is the opposite, because it's so smooth and torquey it's quite happy bumbling around at the speed limit, whereas DRZ kind of ends up brappp everywhere because it's not very smooth at lower rpm It's about as exciting to look at as a mid 00s camry though so I'll do some cosmetic stuff so it doesn't look like I'm on my way to a Ulysses club run

Boot sealed up which was a suckful job but done now Tank and pump in , started on fuel hoses

Not really, but there might be a reason, like the floor or tunnel gets really hot

Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working It ran a lot better and used less diesel

Sweet! I like the colors you have used on the engine

That looks too nice for using in the dirt now haha My dad used to manage a couple of forests in Auckland for Carter holt , dirt bikes were always verboten in the forest, dad used to chase the locals out of there fairly regularly, until there was a mishap, I think he got charged with dangerous driving or something once

79 is when rear belts became a requirement, so technically, you won't need them. Good idea to fit them though, if the holes are there already.

Yeah I think that would be OK to modify or remove , add some sort of strength back into the join another way

Mint!! Did you need a repair cert? Congrats on legalness!

Fuel tank stuff Put a bulkhead fitting in for a return in the top And made a spill ring Find pot with correct diameter, luckily I had one set aside for camping, also had correct holesaw in stock, wang some holes in, briefly consider leaving the handle on, shorten pot, drill a hole in a bolt to enable fixing of a ground wire and also a drain hose, done.

Have to use someone else, if you are a certifier you can't cert your own vehicle or anything you have modified or have a financial interest in A certifier can do some cert repairs but only up to a max of 8 hrs work.

Now all legal, cert and wof done Wof guy was hesitant to do it cause he'd damaged a front lip on something a week ago and it cost him $400 to fix , I told him I wouldn't hold him responsible for any damage Front lip/lower arms juuuuust clear the edges of the pit and brake rollers

If I was picking suspension from that list, BC 100% Probably the most common brand I see, and apart from setup/adjustment issues, I've only had 2 sets have problems that I can remember in 15 years

Yes. Must have enough clearance that the two can't ever touch, if an engine mount breaks then the engine should never be able to rock over and jam it , a steel or alloy u joint can't be closer than 25mm and a rubber rag joint 50mm , or 100mm if there's a catalytic converter

No there isn't much in the book as far as pedal pads. Ideally the pedal pad should be attached in the middle or as near to that as practical Using a factory pedal rubber as a template is a good way of doing it