cletus

As far as I know, lvvta is absolutely flat out busy trying to keep up with updating standards and the CCM etc etc So they do try to stay on top of stuff that is important To be fair, stuff like previously mentioned honda struts comes up not very often, I would have certed 1 car in the last 3 years that it affected, and there is already a process in place for someone who wanted to cert a car with aftermarket struts with welded arms . So it is very unlikely that LVVTA would spend any more time on it There are some situations that can never suit everyone unfortunately, or there would have to be 200 people working at LVVTA and the rule book would have to be 4 billion pages long and a cert would cost many many times more Also there isn't a group that represents 'modern' car owners. There was talk of a group being started but I'm not sure what's happening there

Contact justin@lvvta.org.nz I was under the impression that it could be made to fit a standard arm and taper and you base the maximum pin length from that, ie a smaller major diameter would permit a shorter pin than a bigger one would but the wording in one part suggests otherwise, that 16mm is the minimum

Correct The rules don't always work/make sense for every situation unfortunately

These cars are a ballache There's 2 main problems with coilovers on these 1 is the fact that the steering arms are usually a casting or a forging which in general can't be welded or heated in any way 2nd is a steering arm can't be welded so even if it wasn't cast or forged then welding would be an issue There is an info sheet on lvvta.org.nz about getting a welded casting or forging passed but I've never had anyone do it. Apparently when the info sheet came out, BC had a strut tested as per the sheet, it failed, they modified the welding procedure, failed again so they said nz is a tiny market we won't bother. Brand doesn't matter, I've seen issues with both bilstein and kw, some audis have the same design suspension and kw makes a coilover for those that the steering arm is fabricated from multiple pieces and welded together Years ago before that infosheet came out I got a couple of integras approved to be certed with cusco /tein coilovers but that wouldn't work now. The last one I did the owner found 2x stock honda shocks and had them modified to accept a bilstein insert and an adjustable platform, but it couldn't go very low It's become less of a problem as that shape honda was never really that popular

Wof sheet means certifier doesn't have to check wof items as part of cert so that makes it easier However it isn't a complete get out of jail free card, it's a common sense thing. I've had cars come in that have had wof check sheets failing it for things like spot lights not working and they have missed major things like rust in the chassis Also, for example if the tyres are worn or the brake lights don't work, you would want to get that sorted before you take it for cert, part of the cert is a road test and something like no brake lights could make the road test/brake test hazardous. I've always been careful with making sure the car is good before road testing, because if there's an accident caused by a fault that I've found, but chose to drive the car anyway, I'm pretty sure the insurance company would just laugh at me Other thing is a wheel alignment report, the camber shouldn't be more than 1.5deg camber, or .5 degree over max oe spec, whichever is greater. I can't imagine your car would be too bad, having been complied recently it's probably not going to have too many surprises

I'm going to throw out a wild conspiracy theory that your stock pistons could do 9275 rpm before the top comes off, because of the exhaust backpressure pushing down on the top of the piston Once you have a free flowing exhaust your piston lids will come off at 9021 rpms Might be time for some stronger piston return springs

Sort of/not really relevant but I've heard stories of holden 6 pistons breaking in a similar fashion except the skirt and wrist pin part comes off , the top of the piston stays there and the rod keeps going up and down as the skirts keep it located correctly

Thanks to the replies in the tech spam thread which basically reinforced what I was thinking, which is it doesn't have enough air flow and needs a better fan I thought I'll live with the fan noise if that means I can actually drive it So I embarked on the mission of finding an engine driven fan that fits Found the one I wanted on an NZ website , sweet, ordered it. Nope, " no stock sorry" Bugger. Found a different supplier who had one, ordered off their website "Sorry, no stock, they might be here in 3 weeks? " Poos. Local guy had a plastic flex fan , I didn't want one of those as they are a lot deeper but meh I'll give it a shot , chucked it on, needed a bigger spacer so the blade cleared the alternator. spent ages rummaging around for some bolts Started it, ran for a bit, moves heaps of air, good Gave it a rev to about 2500, the inch or so clearance at the bottom became 0 clearance and the fan hit the tank and broke the tip off one blade Ah yes that's why I hate these fans Luckily no damage to the radiator apart from some dinged fins Found a stock 245 steel fan I had in a box under the house, chucked that on, it will do for now and I'll find the one I want I think with a shroud on it should be OK, the mechanical fans move heaps more air. It still creeps up at idle in the shed but no shroud and a slower fan speed than stock due to pulley sizes are the reasons I think

Fuckin dick, no wonder it did surprise wheelspins

Yep camber no more than 1/2 degree over max factory spec 100mm thing doesn't matter for cert Wof check sheet means the certifier doesn't have to check any wof items or exhaust noise Golf's are usually pretty straight forward, most common things I can think of for cert are issues around the front sway bar links being wrong length or drive shaft fouling on the chassis/ sway bar link Also make sure your wheel bolts have 7.5 turns and have the correct seat taper

Are your header pipes the right size or do they need to be bigger? Looks like the design isn't too bad, you might be able to chop off the crappy factory collector and do a better one while the engine is out?

Both, current fans are about 75mm thick and cover full width of the core. I could fit 2x 11" fans if one was up and one down My big concern is it can't keep itself cool now, and I haven't put it under any stress yet. and I don't want to spend $500 to find out it's not that much better/still borderline because a $250 fan isn't better enough than a $80 one After thinking about it a bit more I might be better to live with the fan noise and use a engine driven fanny It's already full of turnips so I can't fit anything else in there

Yeah I wanted to use some sort of OEM fan as they pump heaps of air and are cheap, the problem is space, all the common oe fans I've measured up are too big for how much room I have unfortunately

Electric fans. Anyone have good or bad experience with decent brand ones? Spal, Davies Craig, derale etc I've got 2x 10" fans on my car but they don't have enough flow to cool it. They were $80 cheapy ones that were meant to be 850cfm or something I'm hoping some better ones plus a shroud might fix my problem but I'd like to get experience from others as the 'good' fans are quite expensive (around $250 each) I can fit 2x11" fans which spal make if I offset them the right way. I'm stuck with 2 smaller fans as there's not enough room for a big single fan The alternative is go to a mechanical flex fan and make a shroud to suit but I'd rather have electric

Yeah it kinda caught me by surprise. I had my daughter with me and because everything is new, and not tuned properly yet, was taking it easy I got on a straight bit and gave it a stab in 2nd gear at about 40k and it lit up as soon as it hit boost Kid got googly eyes and said "what was that dad?" It makes some good spooly noises when tootling around.

It drives. Got a few bugs to work out though. The main one is it gets hot, and can't cool itself down. This might be a bit of a prick to sort out as there's no room left I think it has more boost than it should do Brakes are a bit spongy, might need next size up master cyl, might improve once they bed in a bit Seats are a bit low Needs something to stop the pinion angle changing under accel, driveshaft just knocked the floor slightly

If it's over 20 years old- no problem Less than 20- has to comply with all emissions standards etc unless you can meet the criteria for a special interest vehicle Will have to pay the clean car fee though, the car has to be 40+ years old to avoid that Rust or damage repair will need repair cert regardless of how old it is I'd avoid anything where they salt the roads, I've got a really nice 64 dodge polara on the hoist at the moment, looks good on the outside but it came from new York, and underneath is pretty fucked

Had one do that the other day, in a 60 zone

While I am disappointed for you, I think that engine deserves a high 5 for its efforts, I'm surprised that didn't happen sooner tbh

Looking good! Nice work. +1 for smaller wheels.

Some more boxes ticked, wiring is all done, carpet, shifter, seats, all in for good now. this car has the upper belt anchorage in the roof so it was very uncomfortable with a static belt as it rubbed your neck/ear, which got annoying and I'd loosen the belt which meant it wouldn't work properly I fitted a new anchorage for a retractor and that meant I could use lap diagonal retractable belts with a dropper off the roof so the belt is in the right position With the seats, belts, and shifter position, it is the most comfortable car I own now, which is kinda funny, because it will likely be massively hungus on the pertols so won't be driven long distances...

Sorry to say but I think you've done your snorkel incorrectly It's meant to be on the a pillar so it blocks your vision, faces your ear so all the turbo noises go directly into your brain , and you're meant to weld a laser cut logo into the end of the 4" pipe so it blocks off most of the flow

Are they easy to swap between cars?

Depending on what brand of coilovers you get, it is entirely possible. The key thing is to set it up so the bump stop limits the travel before the balljoint can hit the body If I was setting them up from new I would remove the spring and bump stop and set them so the ball joint contacts at the same point as the shock bottoms out. That would give you a safe lowest setting, then fit the bumpstop and spring You would be surprised at how much the bump stop compresses It is reasonably common fix to reduce the travel at the shock via a nylon spacer above the bumpstop, as something like a BC shock has heaps more travel than it needs for that style of suspension Another option would be to get keeper springs and run the spring a lot looser