cletus

i wouldnt do that, theres probably a lot of load on that part of the caliper stopping the two`fingers` from bending up under loading. Plus im pretty sure they are cast alloy not iron?

falcon b/w lsd are cone type rather than clutches if that makes any difference.

pale gamer nerds who think they are clever cause they found some spelling mistakes. good on you for organising something positive.

http://lvvta.org.nz/stdSeatAnchorage.pdf go down to 2.9 this has requirements for the mounting plates. www.lvvta.org.nz has most of the rules certifiers follow, available at the top of the first page under `documents`

"about 112Kw" is quite precise also that much power out of an old nail of an engine for $730 sounds too good to be true. i smell bullshit. be careful you dont get ripped

helpful for you? widened elderly datsun wheels. http://forums.minitruckin.co.nz/viewtop ... =18&t=2966 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 060273.htm

So if a positive ground car bumped into a negative ground car, would there be dzzzztttd when the bumpers touched??

the mitsi can probably get away with a bigger port because the fuel is squirted directly at the valve from the injector rather than having to get dragged out of a holley and make its way down the manifold and port. the older engine needs velocity to keep the fuel atomised properly

205/70/14 balloons. you could work it out by measuring how much gap you have now between the spring plate and the ground, minus how high the traction bar is. also check how the spring sits, if the front spring eye is lower than the spring plate then the front of the traction bar will be even closer to hitting the ground. you might be better off with a link bar off the top of the diff housing to the inside of the chassis rail, gt falcons had that, possibly some escorts or capris as well. or a 2 inch block and reset springs.

i had some of those bars on a car with 2 inch blocks once, they were a pain in the asshole due to being too low/got stuck on speedbumps etc. so with 75mm blocks would be worse, depending on what size tyre you are using

pg hydraulics in east tamaki. not cheap but do a proper job.

4 link or leafs.....ladder bars/2 link is a waste of time in a road car. turns the rear axle into a giant swing arm, the only side to side movement it has is the flex in the bushes.

i busted 7 in my mark twice cortina and 2 in my esky van the local wrecker ran out of escort diffs because of me the spider gears are the weak link they dont like axle tramp i broke one doing a burnout on a pile of dead geese to see if it would smell like roast chicken

have seen a couple of rotary engined veehicles with carb secondarys modified to open mechanically, thus giving the illusion of more power due to the fact there is a big flat spot and then surge. = wanky. the reason a holley carb with mechanical secondaries is known as a double pumper is because it has two accelerator pumps to stop the lean condition when the second throttles are opened

yea was more about having enough advance off boost to run properly and not have to have a locked dizzy....... rather than randomly pulling timing out with no thought involved

was thinking the other day of similar ideas ( non computer conrolled turbo shenanigans) of using wastegate actuator to retard timing under boost- like a vacuum advance but in reverse

turbo can be an issue for suck thru turbo as they usually arent designed to have vacuum on the compressor side, may require fandangled seal to avoid clouds of smokes may be easier to use small holley 2 barrel? easy to get parts, theres plenty of blown v8s making good power with 4 barrel holleys and you can get bits to suit blowthru application. they dont have boxes around carb either usually a hat on top. im sure the 2010 wrx has a blow thru carb set up. or nah

got some new wheels thanks Jason (lowrota) 205 70 14 on the back and 195 60 14 on the front for some bogan rake battery tray was all rusty so moved the battery to the boot, and with the v8 engine offset as per factory makes for a nice big space for a turbo to live in

Inspect your fuel filteration device. Probably full o shyte thereby reducing the large amount of fuel flow a falcon needs to move itself anywhere

another thing, check bleeders are at the top of the calipers?? ie calipers on correct side.

what a lovely automobile, good to see effort made making it tidy have you fixed brake sponge ness yet things to check that i have found causes same issues bung old brake hoses going like balloons (even new faulty ones) new pads on un machined rotors flexing siezed caliper slides new brake shoes with wrong radius on them for the drums brakes adjusted wrong eg cable cranked up instead of adjustment at wheel put clamps on all brake hoses and see if it then has a firm pedal. releasing each clamp will give you clues on where the problem is

What about a pump off first gen subaroo legacy? they have a water- air intercooler with a pump/radiator etc

Looks cool man,orange will suit it. what did you do to get the back that low?

cheers fellers just going to cruise it with the 6 for summer, next winter i want to do a smallblock chrysler with a single turbo and injection plans are to leave the outside stock looking, havnt decided wheels yet but will be something old 14s or 15s i used to enjoy going to the drags with my old one, had a mild 318 ..... i won the dyo drags at a skyline club meet once in it...... that was funny, they wernt that impressed

righto needs some tidy up work to make it nicer to drive fixed leaky rocker cover and bung old heater hoses stevie wonder must work at the place that gave it a wof...... non existant suspension bushes and crumbly old original brake hoses from 1971 so new bushes shocks and hoses done. cranking of torsions and applying of lowering blocks. now it goes where i steer it rather than where it wants to. removed floodmaps and tow bar painted wheels polished surface rust off bumpers put some better tyres on