cletus

had a llok in the wof bible, its in the table of modifications that dont require certification= removing seats and belts. Unless for some strange reason the entry virm is different to in-service virm then you should be able to do that.

yep i know Dave from a while back, when he worked at autostop Ill see what i can find out for you tomorrow, i cant see why you wouldnt be able to remove the seat and register it as a 2 seater.

if i were to get a car complied i would use VINZ mt wellington, ask for a man called Glynn Jones, or Western Compliance in kelston. they are good guys to deal with. C+P motors in grey lynn are also good if you want something around that area. VTNZ and VINZ supply inspectors to compliace places so sometimes they get shifted around, abc comp seems to have a different inspector everytime i go in there. I cant do compliance (registration), just the LVV cert if the car is modified.

ive got a magazine which mentions a v8 soarer front x member bolting into a supra, then you could use all factory bits if you had a soarer sump. was that the sump you couldnt find? turbo manual 1uz in a supra would be splendid.

car will be certed at a safe height- eg springs to be captive, have enough travel, no tyre rub etc. the +-5% is more to allow for susp being loaded or settling a bit- i personally dont think its a good idea, as people get the idea its ok to lower the car more after the cert, many cars are borderline and lowering another 10-15mm often results in the spring becoming uncaptive or tyres rubbing etc. it says in the rules that the car must be safe to drive with the shocks at the fully firm setting- maybe this is where what you heard comes from with a bit of chinese whispers added. ive never heard of a certifier doing that except in the case of air bag systems- the car must be driveable if all the air gets out

yep ABS can be removed and certed all abs bits have to be removed as said above

what sort of car is it? if you are changing brakes, that will need cert anyway but if its all bolt on factory stuff you might get away with it for a while

a common problem with toyota starters is the contacts in the starter get worn and starter plays up, tis a piece of cake to fix.

get a taper punch ground to a sharp point, one whack with a hammer on the outer edge between the "+" straight down to make a little "crater" then you should be able to use the punch and hammer on an angle to turn it. hard to describe without sounding retarded but it works well

www.bandedsteels.com found that this morning plenty of pics. now want wide steelies for my commonwhore wagon

xr6 turbo 2/1jz sohc 4.0 falc 2.0 where 4.1 used to live = fail you need something with a bit of torque to get an old lump like a falcon moving. a rb or sr may make more power overall than an old taxi 4.1, but it would be horrible to drive- you would have to give it death to get some boost happening/get the ute moving how fast you wanna go? what are you going to use it for?

when the certifier does the loaded- condition test it is supposed to be "moderate" acceleration from 70-100 kph, in the highest gear. so its not full load/big rpm like a power run on a dyno. i usually take the owner with me on a road test so they can see how the car is being driven.....

sump off crank out bit of wood and XXL hammer

it would have to be something with a date on it......ideally an invoice for having the engine fitted, or a driveshaft made for the conversion, dyno run etc...... a pic would probably work if it had the date on the picture

cant see why not.... most of the fibreglass bodied cars ive seen have some form of steel frame attaching the hinged part of the door to the other end of the door where the catch is to keep the door strong enough

spoke to technical guy today about this, official reply was the cat rule will apply to cars that have had the engine swapped after 1st of may. so if you can get some proof that the engine was fitted prior to may 1 then you wont need to worry about it.

This is what I meant in the other thread - if you run a car noisy as shit then don't be surprised if you get into trouble. Run whatever system you like so long as its not tooo noisy and exits outside the car behind the rearmost opening windows and you shouldn't have much problems. rule basically says the exhaust system cannot be fiddled about with in any way without the use of hand tools. the exception to this is, i have been told by our tech guy in wellington, those plug in silencers for fart cannon mufflers have to be tack welded or riveted in place because of the fact that they will probably be removed 28 seconds after the cert sticker is on. With supertrapp mufflers or any exhaust with additional restrictors, dump pipes etc, when i do an exhaust noise cert, it all gets noted on the certificate so the exhaust only complies when it remains as tested. A lot of it depends on the driver and car as well........ i dont think ive ever had to do a noise cert on a green stickered V8 commode or falcon...... its always skylines, subarus, hondas, the usual "boy racer" type cars that get stung for noise. and its usually younger people as well its surprising how many parents i get ringing me to sort out thier kids cars.

yeah its funny how some people spend $84785156645 on engine wheels suspension body etc and leave the original anchors on it one of the best things i did to my last project was put skyline 4 pot calipers and 280mm discs on it. not a flash setup by any means but cheap, easy to do and never had to worry about stopping.

yes would need a cert, and to pass cert would require a cat. if the car+ engine had one originally.

It's a talk to the cert guy question - my flatmates cruiser with the LS2 has factory cruiser brakes and it wasn't an issue. Although they probably treat 4x4's a little different. That said, there would have been a factory turbo 910 Im sure - whether it was CA18det or Z18ET or whatever. if your brakes are at least as good as that it should probably be ok. yea they do but they come out with 130hp in turbo form (z18et) , if a remember correctly , so 260 is a bit of a jump haha . might have to ask cert dude down here righto there isnt a requirement to upgrade brakes, but it must pass the brake fade test. in your case with that much increase in power, it would have to do 5 100-0kph stops under 4.4 sec in a total time of 3 minutes. in my experience, if you havnt increased the weight or rim size a lot, use the best pads you can afford, discs in good condition and fresh brake fluid, most japanese cars can pass the test with the standard brakes.

Adaptors are easy- max 27 mm, must be located by either tapered seat wheel nuts, or locate on the hub spigot. properly made out of suitable materials etc etc. Spacers (slip-on type) are trickier, usually have to be custom made. max 20mm Must be single stud pattern. ie not those multi fit 4/5 stud slotted hole ones surfaces must be parallel and flat. no holes other than the holes for the wheel studs and locating bolt wheel must be supported by hub spigot not wheelstuds spacer must be attached to the hub or wheel wheelstuds still have to be long enough made from suitable material etc

yep 27mm max. have seen a few sets of 30mm ones around. sometimes if theres enough meat in them they can be machined down to 27mm saw some monster ones on a car ex japan that were probably 80mm ALL spacers or adapters need cert.

Material would have to be "fit for purpose" i dont think there is a specific requirement for any particular grade. Will check the bible tomorrow.

yes,sort of. wheel adaptors (bolt on to hub type with another set of studs in adaptor to secure wheel) are 27 max, wheel spacers (slip on type, original studs secure wheel) max is 20mm.