cletus

yes if its all bolt on parts you should be fine

Thats the sort of thing you will want to discuss with the certifier you plan on using, if the 3 fixing points on each side are far enough apart then that should be fine the main thing i would be thinking about would be any extra leverage on the mounting points, because of the braking force applied by the radius rods....without seeing it is hard to make that call. the other thing to consider is the steering shaft, you will need a longer one.... cant be extended by cutting and welding, needs to be a new one piece shaft or a factory longer one out of a suitable donor car. the rules for this arent available online, its in the hobby car manual

yep might save you some drama later on

where is the valve that operates the power assist ram?

sounds good. bit hard to tell without seeing it and i cant remember what a brumby looks like underneath, but subaru outbacks and foresters are raised up like how you have described from factory, ie. spacers between x member and body where is the rack mounted to, on the x member? Are you going to space the front struts down the same amount?

Technically speaking you need to re-cert the vehicle for a change in wheel sizes. Certifier needs to assess that change in wheel size will not have detrimental effect on handling, braking or clearance to body or suspension components. Some certifiers will do these checks for a reduced charge for wheel change only, plus the cost of a Cert Plate Reprint. It is also possible to have a vehicle certified for more than one wheel size, road wheels & drag wheels for example. That would need discussing with your certifier of choice correct. the 100mm rule goes out the window anyway if it is certed for being lowered and the measurements match the plate

flares like that on thier own wouldnt need a cert, but the mods needed to fill them out and get it to look right probably would, ie wheel spacers, proper suspension, cut out original guards etc. and then the flares would be on the cert anyway

need to fit a non power steer equivalent or have rack modified by reputable place to be non power steer- reason being there is a little `torsion bar' inside a power rack that operates the power assist valve- removing the pump ect causes stress on the torsion bar and eventually it can break

had a llok in the wof bible, its in the table of modifications that dont require certification= removing seats and belts. Unless for some strange reason the entry virm is different to in-service virm then you should be able to do that.

yep i know Dave from a while back, when he worked at autostop Ill see what i can find out for you tomorrow, i cant see why you wouldnt be able to remove the seat and register it as a 2 seater.

if i were to get a car complied i would use VINZ mt wellington, ask for a man called Glynn Jones, or Western Compliance in kelston. they are good guys to deal with. C+P motors in grey lynn are also good if you want something around that area. VTNZ and VINZ supply inspectors to compliace places so sometimes they get shifted around, abc comp seems to have a different inspector everytime i go in there. I cant do compliance (registration), just the LVV cert if the car is modified.

ive got a magazine which mentions a v8 soarer front x member bolting into a supra, then you could use all factory bits if you had a soarer sump. was that the sump you couldnt find? turbo manual 1uz in a supra would be splendid.

car will be certed at a safe height- eg springs to be captive, have enough travel, no tyre rub etc. the +-5% is more to allow for susp being loaded or settling a bit- i personally dont think its a good idea, as people get the idea its ok to lower the car more after the cert, many cars are borderline and lowering another 10-15mm often results in the spring becoming uncaptive or tyres rubbing etc. it says in the rules that the car must be safe to drive with the shocks at the fully firm setting- maybe this is where what you heard comes from with a bit of chinese whispers added. ive never heard of a certifier doing that except in the case of air bag systems- the car must be driveable if all the air gets out

yep ABS can be removed and certed all abs bits have to be removed as said above

what sort of car is it? if you are changing brakes, that will need cert anyway but if its all bolt on factory stuff you might get away with it for a while

a common problem with toyota starters is the contacts in the starter get worn and starter plays up, tis a piece of cake to fix.

get a taper punch ground to a sharp point, one whack with a hammer on the outer edge between the "+" straight down to make a little "crater" then you should be able to use the punch and hammer on an angle to turn it. hard to describe without sounding retarded but it works well

www.bandedsteels.com found that this morning plenty of pics. now want wide steelies for my commonwhore wagon

xr6 turbo 2/1jz sohc 4.0 falc 2.0 where 4.1 used to live = fail you need something with a bit of torque to get an old lump like a falcon moving. a rb or sr may make more power overall than an old taxi 4.1, but it would be horrible to drive- you would have to give it death to get some boost happening/get the ute moving how fast you wanna go? what are you going to use it for?

when the certifier does the loaded- condition test it is supposed to be "moderate" acceleration from 70-100 kph, in the highest gear. so its not full load/big rpm like a power run on a dyno. i usually take the owner with me on a road test so they can see how the car is being driven.....

sump off crank out bit of wood and XXL hammer

it would have to be something with a date on it......ideally an invoice for having the engine fitted, or a driveshaft made for the conversion, dyno run etc...... a pic would probably work if it had the date on the picture

cant see why not.... most of the fibreglass bodied cars ive seen have some form of steel frame attaching the hinged part of the door to the other end of the door where the catch is to keep the door strong enough

spoke to technical guy today about this, official reply was the cat rule will apply to cars that have had the engine swapped after 1st of may. so if you can get some proof that the engine was fitted prior to may 1 then you wont need to worry about it.