cletus

i had a l300 van once that was lpg dedicated. was ex courier van , had done 450,000km on gas since new, had overheated/blown head gasket/head skim many times. it hauled ass for a shitty old van. probably due to more comp ratio. used to cost round $20 to fill it, got 250km a tank round town, but 400 on open road. this was probably 8 or 9 years ago

yes and have a radiused edge so it cant stab/maim pedestrians

exhaust must exit perimeter of passenger compartment. so as long as it comes out the side thats fine. the only downfall is getting it quiet enough cause usually that doesnt leave much room for mufflers. ive heard all sorts of made up rules( must exit 12 inches past last opening door, can on 2 door but not on 4 door etc etc i have no idea where they came from)

yep still 25 spline i talked to tony at steelie gears about that,he put the lsd in it, he reckons being turbo and auto it shouldnt be too hard on axles. the trans does shift quite hard so ill keep an eye on them. i put a shift kit in a previous v8 vg i had and i used to pull the axles out now and then to check them and over a year of hard use it did twist the splines a bit, never broke one though. Small tyres will help too its only got 205s on it at the moment

still the factory borg warner, with a 4 spider lsd from a commodore, the trans is a 904 $300 special off trademe, that works well so far, shifts good, doesnt slip or leak etc....... long term plan is build a tough 727 and minitubs/9" diff. couldnt afford to do it all at once. dunno really had 400-450hp in mind when i started, should be able to make that and still be reliable. will be interesting to see what it does at the drags. thanks guys

sweet wagon! would like to own a val wag one day.

Now has wof/reg/cert.

i rebuilt mine and it was a bit of a prick to bleed- i didnt bench bleed it cause i didnt want to get brake fluid on it (fresh paint) from memory i pressurised the reservior gently while bleeding it to help get fluid thru. worked well

sweet..... i had a villiers mower when i was a kid, my grampa gave it to me, they mow really nice. unfortunately i pillaged it to make a go kart. went to crank up down south this year, made me want a collection of old stationary engines that chuff away doing nothing

nah as long is the design is sound and the welding is good, you can do it. Only things that need a ticketed welder are "critical function" items like a brake caliper bracket or a front suspension arm etc, and it has to be TIG i have seen a lot of shitty welds from ticketed welders- usually guys who weld 8mm plate all day then try to weld 1.2mm sheetmetal on a firewall and blow big holes/make budgie blobs errwherr yes there is an emission standard now, for cars that have had an engine swap. Its not too bad though its really only an air/fuel ratio check plus efi engines have to have all factory sensors etc if it has an original ecu. Plus, if the car was equipped with a cat, and the engine had one originally, then a cat must be fitted. None of this applies to cars with a modified original engine. slip on spacers can be certed. wheel must be located by center spigot, spacer must be single stud pattern, spacer must be attached to wheel or hub, max width 20 mm. those multi 4/5 stud spacers are only good for the bin. "slip on" (spacers) and "bolt on" (adapters) both need cert.

Will endeavour to provide photographic images of said powerplant when circumstances regarding my personal computer are remedied. Regards, Cletus

Got it running last weekend, run the cam in, took for a drive. Got a bit of tuning to do, it will use all of the worlds oil reserves if i dont sort the carb out soon haha. will do a few more miles then have to pull exhaust manifolds off to retorque heads, fit inner valve springs, wind some more boost in, will get tuning close on the road then onto a dyno to finish.

gas shocks sometimes have enough grunt to lift the car up a little bit.

Ban has been discussed but not decided yet as far as i know. For most people its a good way of lowering a car properly without having to spend $$ on custom stuff, (which is quite hard to find someone who knows what they are doing) Most people adjust it to the height they want and leave it there. Its the same old story, 2% of people have (potentially)fucked it for everybody else.

www.hemiperformance.com.au has pacer decal kits, bought some stuff off them a few months ago, good to deal with. Cars looking good!

non turbo sr20 would be cheap. have seen one in an esky and dont think it was too difficult to get it in

yes will require re cert to change fuel type, to get rid of road users and get cheaper rego.

QFT need torque for towing. rb20 has none of this drove a later model transit the other day, with 4.1 and 3 speed auto. was quite yuck. suggest- falc 4.0 holden v6 1uz 2jz n/a and auto would be cheap

didnt worry about that too much, its got original cast iron manifolds that i modified a bit and they are far from equal length anyway, i figured its just more area the exhaust has to fill up if i made the pipes the same length=more lag. i may be wrong- will see how it goes. cant wait to take it for a hoon.

nah dont need to crack test them visual inspection is ok or demonstrate your welding skillz to the certifier if he requires looks good from here

yes have certed a couple of cars like that, there is no legal requirement for an odometer. Not sure what happens in the case of a diseasel though. gps must be permanently mounted and wired in. www.speedhut.com sells proper gps speedos

just remembered a honda strut is not designed for use in a macpherson type suspension, the shafts are quite small from memory. (hondas are double a arm so there is no braking/cornering loads on the strut)

other honda struts?? odyssey/accord/shuttle etc all are same mounting style might be different lengths

some progress. been a bit slow due to wallet stress but have got most of the expensive bits sorted. engine all together, wiring 90% done, radiator mounted and made hoses, exhaust done, doing intercooler pipes now, diffs got new lsd in it. fuel lines, regulator, oil lines for turbo, and a couple of things for the trans to go then can kick in guts/do a skid

i made some headers for 1uz . shorty ones that were not equal length due to lack of space 75% /cantbefuckedness 25% still went and sounded heaps better than standard log manifolds