cletus

should have OS indoor burnout comp in old garage

would look sweet

yep once its certed then thats the height it is possible to adjust a factory torsion setup way wrong with the available adjustment. ie just because theres thread there doesnt mean its designed to be set at that height from factory

no big dramas i can see with that as for cv knock the guts out and machine the cup part off, some vehicles available in 2 and 4 wheel drive have something like this factory. late model transit i think??

i think the main concern with converting a fulltime 4x4 type vehicle was the possibility of messing up how the car drives, so something that is designed to drive in 2 or 4 wheel drive wouldnt be an issue i would think theres only a few things that need to be TIG welded and crack tested, parts considered "critical function components" ie brake caliper brackets, front suspension arms etc chassis/engine mounts/body etc can all be mig welded. you dont have to be a ticketed welder, if you can weld properly youll be fine. the rule book says welds must be done by a ticketed welder OR someone who has demonstrated to the certifier they can weld. i have seen a few ticketed welders do shocking birdpoo welds on cars because they are used to glueing 6mm plate together all day and are quite good at blowing holes in 1mm sheetmetal

yea we had an infosheet thru a while back about it, fulltime 4wd stuff like subarus/evos/etc have to be certed.

fire wall- thats fine if its boxed/as strong as it was before. theres not a lot of strength in the middle of the firewall anyway. 4wd to rwd is also ok. sometimes doesnt even need cert ie if its a live axle front like a patrol ect and the driveshaft is removed, its no different to the t/case being in 2wd

if it was me id weld them up strength wise its not a big deal it just looks a bit rough or put a strut brace on it to cover it up........

also needs baffling, either internal walls or foam. needs to be mounted strong enough to take extra weight, if its less than 200mm from the ground it will need a bash guard. you will also need hotwires and flares and a 308, maaaate

chris= OS official trailer expert. sweet caravan. would be cool bagged so you dont have to mess around with those leveling jack things- get to camp, slam, open beverage.

you can buy steel wool in big ish bags from super cheap

oops. should put that in sig viewtopic.php?f=17&t=19314

thinking about putting EFI on valiant for better economy/drivability etc...... have found this http://www.pro-jay.com/8-INJECTOR-X-80m ... TBA-80.htm I like the idea of bolting this on in place of the carb, keeps the fuel rails etc in one area. Only things that bug me are injectors being that far up the manifold (although is no different to carb being up there), and possibly fuel distribution issues from having air not having space to ''straighten out'' and blowing the fuel from the injectors unevenly other option would be something like this http://www.pro-jay.com/8-INJECTOR-1360- ... B-1360.htm but they are quite a bit more $$ or weld in injector bungs in manifold and just run a throttle body off top of manifold. would rather avoid that though.

SWEET!

when i was 12 ish i worked at local workshop, one of the local louts had one of these, with a 9hp briggs- hed hoon into the shop, do a burnout inside and bugger off again before the boss could figure out what was happening. Humorous. have always wanted one since

drill + tap main and big end caps, fit grease nipples

yes

note adaptor size is max 30 mm now- also someone asked about gps speedos 238765 pages back- that has changed as well, cant use them any more

yes youfullas are correct. top of guards/20mm max for spacers 30mm for adaptors

sweet van, good colour and wheel choice i must of owned its cousin, my first road car was an eskie van, my reg was kd8747. had 1 half window in the back on the lh side- wierd

x2.

just looked thru the wof book says a motorcycle must be fitted with a mudguard that covers the width of the tyre. it doesnt say how long it has to be..........

depends on the application and whether its homemade or aftermarket if its an unloaded arm ie a radius rod or camber arm then its fairly straightfoward if its loaded ie supports the vehicles weight then theres a lot more to it the requirements are in the hobby car manual eg different material specs depending on vehicle weight, design etc....

sweet car. i like the colours under the bonnet, looks cool

sweet trumpet. my mum has a pic of me in nappies standing on the front seat hangin on the steering wheel of one of these. when i was a baby, not recently, lol keen on one of these slammed on 15, triple su`s and mega lumpy cam in my garage of unlimited o/s cars in my head