cletus

youl go faster cheaper with rb30 theres heaps of them in `straya running fairly quick times yu1Totn7kyo

icon signs in east tamaki would be another one to try the guy who owns the business (michael) has high standards when it comes to workmanship

splendid looking motorcar, chap.

jet extensions move the secondary jets back a bit in the bowl so under hard acceleration the jets dont get uncovered by fuel bowl vent extensions= in my case 2 rubber hoses off the bowl vents that extend into the hat. improves the pressure signal to the bowls by facing the inlet hole straight into the airflow. i believe in some cases the air going across the top of the vertical vent tubes acts like a venturi and can reduce the pressure in the bowl very slightly, and it wouldnt take much pressure difference between the bowls and the rest of the carb to affect fuel flow thru the jets. it must work, removing the extensions alone was enough to take it from the 9.8-10.0 figure, to about 10.5- 10.8, the rest was the jet size change

from LVVTA website- Do I need LVV Certification if I have a Modification Declaration Certificate? Cars that were modified prior to 1 January 1992 were issued with a Modification Declaration Certificate at that time. The Modification Declaration Certificate is valid as long as the vehicle is continually registered and until changes are made to the vehicle, at which time the vehicle must be LVV certified and issued with an LVV plate. Provided the vehicle is still the same as it was in 1992, the Modification Declaration Certificate continues to be valid today for WOF purposes. The WOF issuer is able to check with LVVTA or NZTA to verify details on the certificate.

yes should be attached with 4 rivets to a part of the body/chassis that cant be removed.

PVCR drilled to 2mm, near enough to .078, 6.5 PV at fist i thought id cocked that up, full load AFRs went to 9.8-10.0 ish, was like someone pulled the choke on. i had bowl vent extensions on it which the other carb needed, took those off and went down a jet size primary and secondary and its now at 11.2. still on the rich side but its safe. goes good

Sent carb away to a guy in Oz to sort out, still waiting to get it back, got sick of not being able to drive it. So i bought a shitty old 600DP holley for it off trade me. stripped it, fixed all the fucked parts, milled choke tower off, drilled out power valve restrictors, jetted to suit. spent a few hours with a wideband hooked up to it today, the shitty old home built holley works better than the flash ''designed for blowthrough" Demon carb ever did. drives much better and is better mixture wise under boost. Hopefully the modded Demon works as good as this when i get it back....... Anybody trying to do something similar, these are handy websites to look at... http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html http://www.theturboforums.com/

if you could see what number is on it or even a pic would be handy. Might be something thats prior to me starting certing that i dont know about. It may be the 2nd page in the formset, that lists all the mods on the car, usually is filled out by the certifier.

ive never seen a form like that? maybe a certifier made one up and gave it to you? its a good idea actually, would make life easier identifying whats been changed on a car

no you should be sweet

what you are describing would be fine. its only required on one side of the rail. an alternative is to cap the top and bottom part of the [ instead of the vertical part personally i think it looks neater to do just the inside of the [ (or what you described, completely cover the inside join) when i did the chassis join on a previous project it was a box section, cut it in half, cut 100mm extra from the inner wall each side of the join, fish plate on the inside of the rail, then folded up 200mm long [ section for the inner wall and tig it all together, was hard to see where it was joined

yep thats fine, cut it on an angle, butt weld it back together, then a fish plate twice as long as the height of the rail over the join. there are other methods in the book but thats probably the easiest to explain/do

depends, what are you looking at doing? any structural modifications need cert. The frames measure 65(w)x45(h)x1.2 wall. If I replace them with something that's 65x25x5mm would that be ok? What sort of strength are we looking for, second moment of area? what is the application? what part are you replacing? the whole chassis rail? or just a part? on an mx5? would probably need a certifier to look at it to give you an accurate answer. Supplying engineers calculations will be helpful ie what brockolee said not at all..... im still learning how to suck an egg properly

better be a valiant ute, Bart.......... hahaha

it does say that but only applies to heavy vehicles and PSVs (buses etc) top of the page rh side, the bit that applies to us is "general vehicles"

Does this mean the wastegate exhaust pipe needs a muffler? Also. Would these be cert'able if I had them redrilled to 4x114.3 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/nonalloy-wheels/auction-443329315.htm depends who you ask......... that paragraph says the wastegate has to have its own exhaust system, it doesnt mention anything about a muffler being a legal requirement. also,under test conditions, the wastegate wouldnt be open, there is no drive-by or full throttle noise test. as for the wheels, depends on how the studs holes are made, usually steel wheels have a pressed raised bit where the wheel nut goes, there may not be enough thickness to drill the hole and taper it

depends, what are you looking at doing? any structural modifications need cert.

just checked the emissions standard and it was updated in dec 2011 cat requirements 2.5 http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf

all custom front suspensions like this have to be individually approved by the TAC (technical advisory committee) they would advise on any requirements to do with crack testing, geometry changes, stuff like that looks like a good idea for making a beetle handle better

here, in the wof book note 6 page 11-1-2 http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm- ... t-v4a3.pdf it says it has to exit behind the passenger compartment which is slightly different to the lvv standard - 2.1(5) http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf so if you ran it out the side infront of the rear wheel you should be right

trimatic would be fine behind a mild 308, aussies use them in drag applications, built with the right bits i tried my very best to bust one once, valve bounce in neutral-drive-neutral-reverse many times, couldnt kill it. was a 4cyl though or you putting manual shift gearsack in?

if its for motorsport use then that will be ok there is stuff in the hobby car manual describing how to do exactly this

OS commune would be awesome. with burnout pad.

I think those gps speedos are a good idea. a speedo can be one of the hardest things to sort out with some conversions. have had a few blokes with latemodel gearboxes with only an electric output in old cars with cable driven speedos that have spent $1k to get it working accurately- needs a box that converts elec input into spinning the cable at the right speed even getting a cable operated speedo calibrated properly can be pricey for those using an electronic speedo, jaycar sells a DIY kit that allows you to calibrate your own speedo. I used one of these in my last project, adapted a nissan electric drive onto a340 toyota box