cletus

its not as common as it used to be, a proper dropped axle isnt as expensive these days. i doubt many people would do a full fendered car (40-on) with a dropped stock axle that isnt a ford, most end up with some sort of independent front end

asked about this today, there are a couple of nzhra approved engineers who can do it, and they are the only ones who can for cert purposes. Dave Mcdougall is the one i can remember. one issue is the type of axle it is, the only jigs available will be for early ford, not other types

should be do-able stolen from somewhere on the internet; When a vehicle’s details are recorded incorrectly on the Motor Vehicle Register (MVR), these can be corrected by sending an Application to Change Vehicle Details (form MR16, available at any Land Transport NZ agent) to Land Transport New Zealand. Most MR16 forms need to be sent with supporting documentation to prove that the information recorded on the MVR is incorrect i.e. if the vehicle model is recorded incorrectly we would require documents from the manufacturer to prove this before a change would be made. as far as the cert plate, i could get you another one made for a reasonable cost with the correct details

had a look thru your build thread, tidy car! looks good on those smaller wheels.

plates have become a lot more "descriptive" lately, depends on what the certifier put on the plate order form. it should really be on there, steering mods should definitely be on there, your diff had been moved foward as well hasnt it? and joker is right, center of hub- guard lip

welding cast or forged suspension or steering parts cant be done full stop, tig, mig, arc, hot glue gun, doesnt matter. looking at those pics, are you sure they are a cast arm? i couldnt see 100% from those, i googled mk2 cortina lower arm and it came up with a cast arm that looks different to the pics, more like an escort one. and i seem to have some fuzzy memory of some early ford arms being made of steel welded together that look kinda like the pics of the anglia ones. id be surprised if a certifier hadnt picked that up, as there is a bit going on at the moment with BC struts that have cast bits welded to mild steel, that we have had infosheets on, and training sessions about it all.

fine thread would be better but there isnt a rule saying it has to be. exhaust will be ok as long as you can keep it from rattling in that hole. decent mounts should stop it. you and Bart doing those rear camber adjusters?

bleed nipples have to be at the top or the air cant get out. if you cant swap the calipers over for some reason you can cheat by taking the caliper off and turn it so the bleeder is facing up, bleed it then put the caliper back on. looks like you cant do that without undoing the brake pipe though.....

towbars= you guys are right, there is no requirements for cert or anything for tow bars on light vehicles.

if you are going to do that, i would slot the holes then weld a heavy washer over the hole in the correct position.

there should be a spare chair in my car as well plan- drive to pukekohe sat morning to pick up correct old car from storage, meet at bp picking up 2 near hahei, im staying sat night at my brothers place in whitianga, home again on sunday.

nope

http://oldschool.co....2-escort/'] Good start!

first time i saw one of those i had an actual LOL as if putting stickers on wasnt easy enough already

its worthwile getting a repair certifier involved earlier than later. ive had a customer with a nice freshly painted hq ute, have to strip off the new paint to get a repair cert for re reg. cost him about 13k to get it back to where it was in the first place

stolen from nzmoparforum; similar? i would agree with KK here, probably an aftermarket thing

dunno if its been mentioned, on the same weekend in whitianga is the street rod nationals as well, so there should be some other sweet old cars around. apparently the hot rod guys are visiting leadfoot ranch as well, not on the same day though http://www.streetrodnats.co.nz/

Is this Julius that works at E+H motors? tidy little corolla, nice work.

good thing the seats fold down so you can deal with all the ladies swooning over it. i learnt to do backwards donuts in one of these on a mates farm

did you set the timing with the vacuum disconnected?

where did you get that figure from? its not mentioned in the wof virm or the lvv exhaust standard. having an exhaust sticking out miles from the bumper is a fairly recent issue/trend so there is no rule as far as i know. having a hot bit of pipe sticking out where someone can walk into it would be frowned on by the authorities

id be cautious about a hoist from a workshop upgrading, not many workshop owners would spend $$ on a new hoist unless there was something wrong with the old one, unless they were going from 2 to 4 post to do wheel alignments etc. at my old shop we had a istobal 2 post and a heshbon 2 post hydraulic. the istobal used to give its fairshare of trouble, chain stretching, drive belt slip, worn drive nuts, stuff like that. the heshbon was good. i use different brands of hoists every day, the main issues with china hoists are lift/drop times are a bit slow, cheaper ones have individual locks that you have to pull a cable on both sides to release, some dont have threads on the pad adjusters so you have to use spacers, build quality is a bit suss on some of the switchgear etc. have been looking at buying one recently and would probably go with something from these guys http://www.gdcequipment.co.nz/hoists/ none of the shops i have talked to have had any problems with them. another thing to consider is most second hand ex workshop hoists are 3 phase, if you buy new you can choose either 3 or single phase. my opinion= new china one will be fine for a home hoist, you arent going to use it enough to wear it out quickly, and the things that are a disadvantage in a workshop like slower lift times dont really matter at home.

have chatted to a vw wrecker about these, after certing 2x golfs that had the vr6 engine biffed and the 1.8t put in its place. i was wondering why they went to a smaller engine, he didnt have much good to say about the vr6. or w8 engines either 1.8t is quite cheap, they have a piddly little turbo so they come on boost early, which makes them a good driver, quite torquey for a little engine

my 2c is similar to others, old valiant had a 4 core copper radiator with a fan off a nissan maxima, could do burnouts all day if required. current one has a alloy radiator with an expensive davies craig 16'' fan and its borderline keeping it cool on a hot day. might try some falcon twin fans on it next

http://www.hwr.co.nz/truck-museum recommend seeing this if you can, so awesome