cletus

also, when there isnt a spec for something, it doesnt mean its possible to use an old coathanger or a hot glue gun to attach an engine/whatever, there is a requirement that everything has to be done to a tradesmanlike standard and be fit for purpose.

as far as LVVTA rules go, it just has to be secured, doesnt have to be enclosed, and there isnt a spec for the tie bolts. as mentioned by yowzer and japawagons though, motorsport nz has different requirements, if you are going to do any competition events then probably best to do it to those rules

yes can be done by a competent welder, doesnt need to be crack tested.

according to the lvvta sheet a 215/50/13 or 225/55/13 might be better off looking at falkens and seeing what their fitment range is like

there isnt a specific material requirement for engine mounts, depends on application and design

it was proposed that the cert plates/system was going to be changed to allow certs to be 'updated' cheaper. from memory it was canned due to being too complicated. as for your engine, depends on the vin guy, there are little differences but only would be noticed by someone who knows a bit about sb chebbys. i can id an early engine from what it looks like but still coudnt tell you the difference between a 265/283/327, even more difficult if its been modified

looks good hombre

would be a good idea to get yourself a copy of the hobby car manual, and get in touch with a 1D category certifier. you MIGHT be able to use the arms you have if you can prove the car was built before the current rules,( im not up with the play 100% with this stuff as i cant do scratchbuilt vehicles yet) http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf <list of certifiers

^ what he said

naturally, i approve of this wholeheartedly.

off to a mates workshop to paint. easier than trying to paint in a single garage. that trailer has hydraulics ese lays flat on the ground, it is quite awesome xa gt replica and done. its a bit rough up close but good enough for this guy

im in auckland. pedal- regular small size manual pedal is fine re drilling axle and disc is fine as long as there is enough meat between the holes, ie you arent getting within 5ishmm of another hole

this. as long as the brake hose is secure, and cant rub on anything in its new position, then it will be fine no worries gents!

unfortunately, anything less than 50x5 wont be accepted by LVVTA.

Best idea here would be get your cert guy you want to use around to have a look at this. With this type of mods, different certifiers often have different ideas on what needs doing, i wouldnt want to say "do x" when your certifier might not be happy with it. those spacers are no good though

i cant remember off the top of my head whats near/mounted off it, if it is near a seat or seatbelt mount, it may have to stay, or be replaced by something that has similar strength or greater, and room for the driveshaft- or re fit a 2 piece shaft

if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested. However, i have certed quite a few struts modified like that ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join brake hoses sound fine, as long as they are proper brake hoses and have crimped ends holding the hoses on to the end fittings.

i tell people 7-10 working days usually. sometimes its faster than that, but dont like to say that, cause then it doesnt happen, and then im a prick......

bolt on strut brace doesnt need cert, a weld on one would. heres a list of stuff that can be done without cert. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

What sort of v8? should have same pcd/number of studs as the donor vehicle. as a rough rule of thumb. ie a rover v8 you could leave it 4 stud. big block chev would need more strength

if its not certed already, then get it included. the certifier isnt allowed to ignore things that are modified, plus its in your best interests to have everything covered. you will need a wheel alignment report if its lowered or the suspension has been modified- camber for cert = maximum factory setting PLUS half a degree

yep does need cert.

are you missing a 17mm socket? i found it.

from memory, it was the noise issue that caused the suggestion they would be banned turbo in my car makes heaps more noise with the bov not hooked up..........

there was talk of blow off valves being banned, but that got canned as far as i know