cletus

mark still does them if its a hot rod or something like that, its the bagged owt rydz beemaz mercz are the ones that cause shit rolling on bumpstops, 24-7 driving slammed as or on silly angles, generally "look at me i gots switchez" types

ring your local certifier, they can organise a replacement one.

noel or neal in hamilton neil fraser or lance walsh in auckland. mark stokes ( i work for mark) also wont usually do bags nowadays due to the drama that goes with them

also, do you have pic of the diff you have to put in? as Pete said, my diff is still a BW, its a 4 spider lsd ex a commodore, with 25 spline axles and side gears etc. normal VL had the BW diff,with 25 spline axles, would be strong enough for your application with a lsd in it i think, you can buy a lot of stuff for VL diffs,(VL turbos had 28 spline axles and 4 spider lsd) if for some reason you want to drive like a goose

looked at a vl with a three oh ate the other day, had twin pipes, muffs hang down low, was very close to the fuel tank on the drivers side, and it sounded like poo

only time it needs repair cert is when rego is dead or when a damaged vehicle is first registered in the country

this might be helpful http://www.aussiev8.com.au/driveline-suspension/33590-diff-information-thread-basics-salisbury-borgwarner-bw78-ford-9-a.html

yeah as long as the handling doesnt get all funky, you can delete that item

usually any rust repairs need a repair cert, and the vin guys are pretty good at spotting repairs. Its a gamble, if you fix and paint it and it needs a repair cert you may have to strip it back again for the repair certifier to sign it off, had this happen to a customer with a nicely painted HQ ute, needed to be stripped back checked and repainted again, cost the guy a LOT to get it back how it was to start with

retail prices= basic cert, adjustable susp, wheels, minor mods $480 wheel adaptors add $20 bolt in engine swap $560 eng swap with custom mounts $580-$600 exhaust cert $250 recheck fees $40-up none of these are set in stone-sometimes its cheaper if the owner is helpful, is a GC, car is a minter etc and its more expensive if the opposite applies, if it takes ages to get the inspection done, stuff like that also all certifiers set their own pricing and it can vary from area to area

thoughts? well, I always wonder why the larger diameter darker colour nose hairs just pull right out with a minimum amount of pain, while the tiny little white ones hurt like they are attached to the bottom of my brain stem when i pull those out. oh, you meant about fiat brake caliper brackets, didnt you. they look fine if they are made of steel and they are not welded together

you paint good for someone who makes novelty fridge magnets. Nice Job

they look like they would come loose a lot- a bolt to pivot on at the engine mount and a bolt to pivot on where it attaches on to the crossmember

not really, should be fume proof, that bit by the spare wheel would need sealing up

mod LCA could be ok if its mild steel channel type arm,done well, TIG'd, crack tested. however, you would still have to comply with the camber rule of no more than 1/2 degree over oe spec unless its a motorsport vehicle with authority card. shortened knuckles will be a no go if they are cut and welded cast or forged.

ordinarily, doing that would be fine if done properly. only problem in your case, is the tank is inside the passenger compartment i believe? which is fine if it is factory, but as soon as you modify it, it has to comply with LVV rules- then you would have to seal the tank area off from the passenger compartment

exhaust glowing red is also a sign of retarded timing

Other T3 stuff i have seen seems to be of a good quality.

those struts would fall foul of commandment number 2, "Thou shalt Not make a Weld to thine material made of Cast or Forged metals, when the Part is associated with Steering or Suspending a Motorcar."

wof check is not required. some certifiers ask for a wof checksheet before they will do an inspection- its because part of a cert check is to check all the wof items like lights belts etc etc, as well as the parts that have been modified- if there is a wof sheet less than 14 days old then we dont have to check those things. personally i think its a bit of a cop-out to rely on someone else to check that stuff and ask a customer to spend another $40 or whatever on an inspection they are going to fail and possibly not get everything done before the wof recheck date. plus i always check safety related stuff regardless, you would be surprised what some wof inspectors miss- things like worn tie rod ends and perished brake hoses are quite common- i dont want to be doing a road test and something shit itself cause i relied on someone else to say it was ok as far as getting hold of me to make a booking, give me a ring during the week- 0274 522 049 mention you are from here so you get your complimentary mint slice* *while stocks last

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cant imagine that ever working well with a carb on that manifold

havnt seen a set of those. For what car?