cletus

would be funny to build an entire drag car from china parts. there would be so many catastrophic failures

must be quite a rarity to find a tidy one of these, specially a d pillar equipped one please dont put an rb of any sort even near it

took it to the drags today for a lol. bad point= 16.49 was best time, nearly fell asleep a couple of times it was that uneventful good point= 16.59 was the slowest. so its consistently slow at least. which is handy in DYO, i won. at a GM club event. HA!

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_&%20Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf here is the LVV standard for fitting a seatbelt anchorage. You will need a certifier that has a 1B category.

that crack must have been there a while, can see it in your pic on the first page of your build thread. sweet wagon too

i have read somewhere it should be certified again if rego lapses. cant remember where though however, i know of many cars that have been re reg with the original cert plate as long as the mods match up, i have even organised plates for cars where everything matched but just went from the original serial number to a new 7AT0####### 17 digit vin number when being re reg.

you could if you had a wheel that was thick enough in the hub area, according to the rule book it has to be done by a recognised wheel specialist. most wheels would not have enough thickness if already drilled

as long as the bolts on te mount are long enough,engine mount rubbers dont get twisted/stressed and the angle of the driveshaft etc doesnt get silly, then no problem

yep that would be fine, use teflon or kevlar lined joints (ie good quality ones) and you will be fine

just had a mental pic of pete on a pulsed owt tanga dozer with modgie centers for the tracks, flat peak cap, gang sign fingers, camo seat cover, dented k&n filter sticking out of the hood, gillyz.......

http://www.cragarwheel.com/products16-38/CragarSeries377Supreme http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/cragar-377-series-supreme-chrome-wheels?tw=cragar%20377&sw=Cragar%20377%20Series%20Supreme%20Chrome%20Wheels bg marketing is a cragar dealer, they dont have these on their website but they might be able to get them for you http://www.bgworldwheels.co.nz/bghome.asp

those astro copies are no good as mentioned. cragar do one that is ok. the funny thing about cragars is the construction method sounds even more hori than those^ they have a aluminium center with steel inserts cast into them, which are then welded to the steel outer rim

id have to look back thru some of our training notes, im pretty sure adjustable ones were not ok, that might have been the ones with a thread to do the adjusting. there was some talk of extra long adjustable ones causing issues with trying to twist the steering arm also. if it was allowed, and some would be, (you can buy balljoints and tierod ends that have revised pivot points for some cars) you would need a 1D certifier to do a bump steer check as part of the cert to make sure it does actually improve the bumpsteer and not make it worse

have always had a hankering for an old tracked vehicle of some sort. cool project.

the way i interpret the hobby car manual, you shouldnt need a loop at all. that may differ depending on your certifier. make sure your springs, if they are cut, match the spring seat shape wheel alignment if you think the pinion angle is excessive, then that may be an issue how did you section the struts?

everything from the manifolds to the downpipe down to the gearbox got done, spark plug leads go between the manifold and the downpipe and have never been cooked

i had my manifolds/front bits of exhaust done in HPC hi temp stuff. seems to work- theres a lot of hot exhaust bits in the engine bay and it doesnt get that hot under the bonnet and has lasted well, and has had a number of full load stationary cooling system tests, which is quite scientific of course. http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/ExhaustHeatManagement/tabid/32279/Default.aspx#HiPerCoat_Extreme would definitely do it again

ute came equipped with fancypants semisealed lights with good blubs and a headlight relay, its good at night. VG still has lucas prince of darkness useless sealed beams, can/have to drive around on high beam and never get flashed at by other motorists

i tried tubes, that was a major cockup- nearly stopped me getting to last os nats- had 3 punctures. i ended up getting the tubes removed in palmy and went back to dealing with slow leaks. correct thing to do would be send back to the guy that welded them up and get him to sort it out, would mean having to get them stripped and painted again though. that is why i have put it off for so long....

will definetly get the wide ones back on, after i sort out the leaks and make a better less scrapey exhaust, ive just been using it for the MANLY CHORES so much i havnt had a chance to work on it

i got the shits with those wide steels and having to pump the tyres up every day, i had enough spare tyres and a set of charger rims so had these powdercoated and bunged them on for now until i sort out the other ones this thing has been handy, it has actually been used for its intended purpose as a load carrying contraption a few times, and has never missed a beat. uses not a lot of gas either. have got a spare 2.77 diff for it so am going to fit that for max economy. Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com

also, saw a pic of a pacer on wide black steels that i liked, so i had the wheels powdercoated black, swapped tyres over again, bullet wheel nuts and no hubcaps. Uploaded with ImageShack.com

my boss has one of those little batterys, also has piddly little connectors, i didnt believe it would work either. cranks over a blown 400+cube v8 no problem

cool will keep that in mind, cheers

went to the drags again, boost at 10psi now, did a 12.4@110mph. pulled axles to check splines and the lh one is just starting to show signs of twisting next plan is to do some suspension tuning, it gets a big lean on hard launches, might look at making some caltrac style traction bars