cletus

will probably get rid of the sharp edges but that will be about it . will be interesting to see how it goes, when i was an apprentice i built a 318 with a complete fuckup of a combination, (650dp, victor jr manifold, stock heads not ported at all, sloppy worn out valve guides, probably low ish compression, big cam, stock converter) and it went pretty good considering.......this should be fairly torquey

after some goober with a die grinder attacked them waiting on valves to arrive then will send them off for some exhaust guides and seats. block should be machined this week. its having a 40 thou haircut to get the comp ratio back up. SB chryslers are terrible for low compression which is part of the reason i built a turbo one. most aftermarket pistons have a much lower compression height than original- the best ones i could find at reasonable price were out of a later model magnum 318, they were still 30 thou shorter than the factory slugs. without decking the block they would sit 60 down from the deck, about 8.5-1 comp. depending on weather the heads need a skim, comp should be 9.3- 9.5 now. will probably need shorter pushrods now too......

my brother has just been through all that with his VC. as far as i know, VC and earlier use a dana diff rather than a BW, which isnt very strong. my brother ended up fitting a VG diff/lsd etc

not with the dual plane manifold you have, it has a split plenum so if you turn it sideways the carb will only feed half the engine

not that critical to have a choke. you will get used to it pretty quick. one or 2 pumps on the pedal, hold it open 1/4 throttle and it should start, then as ^ said keep feathering the pedal till its warm enough to drive

got a good earth wire on the engine? + wire big enough from alt to battery?

should be able to do it with a couple of screwdrivers at a pinch, you might even be able to do it by hand if you had your weetbix this morning

I can vouch for the services this gentleman provides, i was surprised how much better my vehicle looked when photographed properly.

there isnt a specific way of mounting the tank in the book, it says it should withstand a 20g impact without falling out of the vehicle. IMO straps are the best way of mounting a tank, if not, consider where the stresses on the sides of the tank where the brackets are- i have seen them cracked where they have had brackets welded to the sides of the tank without a plate to spread the load ie that style mounted hanging from the brackets would be no good

im keen. thought my car might be out of action but next engine taking longer than anticipated the back way thru clevedon/kawakawa etc would be cool meet point could be that big bp after papakura offramp? then get off the motorway at drury again and head to clevedon that way

there isnt a set amount. i have come to my own conclusion, of around half bump travel minimum, (usually 20mm as a rule of thumb) not including keeper springs. any less than that and the springs are too stiff for road use IMO

depends on what car/weight/engine/ brake setup you have. if the brakes are borderline size wise get the best pads you can get

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf doubler plates is 2.9 in here, what you need to do if mounting a new seat to a floor

you need to get a hobby car manual. it is expensive but its not a lot compared to the cost of building a car it has the forms you will need for TAC approval of your design

like beaver said, once its certed, then you are stuck with what the plate says. so if it says oe wheels, thats what it has to have

Heres some answers to commonly asked cert questions. What size tyre can I run on my rims? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf What are the rules with driveshaft loops? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf What are the rules regarding camber? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf How do i weld up my adjustable struts? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/ What are the rules regarding fuel systems? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf What are the rules for air bag suspensions? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf Where can I find the rules for WOF inspections? http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof What can I modify on a car without needing a cert? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf What are the rules regarding wheel spacers? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46520-wheel-adaptors-and-spacers/

i keep meaning to do exactly that and sell for MAX PROFITZ

as mentioned, bilstein does it. have only seen in a non mcpherson strut suspension though. also would be sceptical it could be done on a factory shock housing as they would probably not be thick enough

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.2 ( has the requirements. the fact that your diff is the same isnt really relevant as its the axles and bearings that take the load, the third paragraph explains what you would have to do if you wanted to retain your factory axles and run more than 20% offset

i dont think they have a stamped in chassis number? just the riveted tag on the top of the firewall

the brown car is a 770 Regal so it has some fruity bits the standard valiant doesnt. The plan for the brown car does not include any form of anything that doesnt need to be on it to function or make it faster so some of these parts will end up on the white car. started with fitting the stainless guard trims, which are a bit different to the 4 door as the rear guards are different. nothing a cut off wheel couldnt sort though and stripped the heads. i thought i would get away with a quick clean up of the ports and throw them back together but one exhaust guide has a bit too much slop in it and one inlet valve and seat is pitted from water getting in it. so it will get a set of new valves, and new exhaust guides and hardened seats fitted quality. theres some horrible daggy casting marks in these

this. if you are confident your suspension modifications will pass cert, get the crack test done first. the only thing that might be a cock up is if theres something with the modification thats no good, ie welding the strut tube to a cast hub, it may pass the crack test but wont pass cert, in that case you would have wasted your money getting the NDT done i get that situation a bit where people have put adjustable suspension in a car and had a wheel alignment done, only to find the suspension is bung or needs to be raised or something like that, making the wheel alignment void or the other way, where the car is all ok just needs a wheel alignment, but then to get it in spec it needs camber arms, which then foul on the body and the suspension has to be raised or modified requiring another inspection........ gah

what sort of car?

i usually measure rims by putting a tape measure thru the spokes and measuring bead to bead as for the offset being too much, a certifier should pick it up, 20% is the maximum, unless you fit different heavier duty hubs as per the LVV std

yes rubber/universal/cv joint all need loops