cletus

i just re read it and i sound like someones dad haha FORGOT IT WAS A 4AGE, IT NEEDS ALL THE HELP IT CAN GET PUHUHUHU

i think you need to look at how you will be using the car most of the time. people get all hung up on making max power when you might only need max power 5% of the time. a 3'' exhaust on a 1600 might be annoying the other 95% of driving you do. i get it all the time at work- rotaries that get green stickered for too much noise but they dont want to get rid of their twin 2 1/2 into single 3'' dumpy muffler cause it makes more power. no point having another 15 hp if you cant drive it because you get hassled by the law every time you drive it

they dont look too bad, pretty much the same design as all the china arms for those cars the quality of the joint is usually the downfall of cheaper arms, they sometimes dont last very long at all. these are more likely to last well http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-654634650.htm

cant see what fitting it has at the caliper end. but the main things are you need to make sure the hose cant pull tight /rub/catch on anything thru full susp travel and steering lock, and be supported where it attaches to a hardline. so it doesnt necessarily need a strut bracket if you can achieve that,and if the end that attaches to the caliper is designed to go straight on the caliper, ie a banjo fitting or a straight screw in one. if you have a short hardline off the caliper then a hose then you will need a bracket.

if it works on the right angle, an old spark plug with something welded up the end of it to hit the piston works well- turn engine by hand till it stops against the plug- mark pulley- turn the other way till it stops- mark pulley- halfway between your 2 marks is tdc

have a look back thru this thread theres a lot of writing about welding and struts and forgings and castings. if mazda welded it then you wont need to crack test it

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/approvals.html#about they meet once a month i think

i cant find anything official, that says you cant drive it all the time if it has an authority card

what yowzer said. it may not happen if the disc is fat enough, but it would still be considered 'untradesmanlike' to do such a thing. unlegit.

1. you will need a cert for #3 so your engine mod/swap will be covered at the same time 2. there is no law regarding engine induction noise. 3. brake swap will need cert 4. may as well get that done as well to save yourself hassles 5. ideally you should have it set up correctly before the cert. if you change the springs afterwards and they are still captive etc then nobody would know as the spring rate etc is not listed on the cert plate 6. if its hardwired into the car and not a gps speedo then that is fine 7.i had a quick look in the wof online manual and couldnt find anything that says you have to have a demister

you will need a cert for what you plan on doing, best to chat to a certifier in your area who does bikes so you do it how they want it done.

yep

something i have done a few times on old enjuns is check that tdc actually is proper tdc- sometimes the balancer outer ring has moved/ not that accurate to start with/wrong timing cover etc then measure the circumference of the balancer, divide the measurement by 360 degrees and measure and mark out some of your own timing marks that go as far as you need

i talked to a guy who used to buy that^ in bulk from a chemicals place, they locked him in the DG store and called the cops, apparently meth cooks use it KK, is your timing set at tdc and it still rattles? ie 0 degrees btdc

would be funny to build an entire drag car from china parts. there would be so many catastrophic failures

must be quite a rarity to find a tidy one of these, specially a d pillar equipped one please dont put an rb of any sort even near it

took it to the drags today for a lol. bad point= 16.49 was best time, nearly fell asleep a couple of times it was that uneventful good point= 16.59 was the slowest. so its consistently slow at least. which is handy in DYO, i won. at a GM club event. HA!

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_&%20Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf here is the LVV standard for fitting a seatbelt anchorage. You will need a certifier that has a 1B category.

that crack must have been there a while, can see it in your pic on the first page of your build thread. sweet wagon too

i have read somewhere it should be certified again if rego lapses. cant remember where though however, i know of many cars that have been re reg with the original cert plate as long as the mods match up, i have even organised plates for cars where everything matched but just went from the original serial number to a new 7AT0####### 17 digit vin number when being re reg.

you could if you had a wheel that was thick enough in the hub area, according to the rule book it has to be done by a recognised wheel specialist. most wheels would not have enough thickness if already drilled

as long as the bolts on te mount are long enough,engine mount rubbers dont get twisted/stressed and the angle of the driveshaft etc doesnt get silly, then no problem

yep that would be fine, use teflon or kevlar lined joints (ie good quality ones) and you will be fine

just had a mental pic of pete on a pulsed owt tanga dozer with modgie centers for the tracks, flat peak cap, gang sign fingers, camo seat cover, dented k&n filter sticking out of the hood, gillyz.......