cletus

so you blew the engine? how did that happen?

incorrect. fitted a cert plate today on a civic that had been pink stickered for this exact reason. ltsa doesnt exist any more, they keep changing, its NZTA now they probably dont care whether civics or corollas are better. your 20v vs 16v head issue- cert it if you want no problems dont cert it if you want to have a potential argue every wof or when you get pulled over. even if you are technically correct, someone will have another idea, especially if you fail the attitude test

they look like they would be fine

yep, this. needs cert for a mod like this.

the loop doesnt have to be round- could you make it flat cross the bottom to clear the mufflers?

yes, yes and yes. one commonly available escort pedal box has a welded box section pedal which is no good for cert purposes. might be better to look at a wilwood or tilton type pedal box. if you are putting injection on your engine, it would be a good time to recert it when you have done all of it

must have been you i saw on saturday arvo? i was in the black val ute

correct. there is no time limit after vin number is issued

sorry didnt mean to make your question sound silly, my ranting was aimed more at that particular way of mounting an engine

actually i read the ad again and its even more retarded than i thought, it comes with a crush tube, so the nolathane does absolutelyfuckinothing. "i have used these on my 323 and you can really feel the power travel through the car"

more cylinders= not as bad. a v8 with solid mounts is not that bad for vibes. a poly engine mount is quite stiff, and quite often if a bonded type, ie the poly is bonded to the 2 steel plates, they break easily. this way of mounting engines is one of my pet hates/causes me to facepalm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-661940362.htm so any movement in the mount flogs out the holes where the bolt goes thru, or at least makes it come loose

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.3 ( 8 ) may be another option for you- if you can strip all the tyres off the rims

as long as it is strong enough then i cant see an issue. the one in that pic has probably had a bit much cut out. if you are not going to adjust the camber as positive as that big bit cut out towards the guard allows, i wouldnt cut it that far. first page in this thread has one done tidily //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29805-mikeys-240z-golly-gosh/

some info that might help http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2011_Rear_Suspension_Radius_Rod_Geometry.pdf

are you making something like this?

have you spoken to a certifier about what you plan on doing? a ladder bar rear on a street car is a bit of a disaster waiting to happen. if it is a true ladder bar style you wont need that style of joint as they dont articulate very much anyway

yep have had that done to me- failed cert for light on or not working, guy fixed it, i asked him how he fixed it, he told me hed repaired the loom, so i removed the oil pressure wire and it came on again. PLEASE EXPLAIN

i cant see any problem with using them. ive passed heaps of cars with those lock collars fitted

there isnt a rule about how low an exhaust can be. however it still must be safe to drive etc....this means if it bottoms out all the time under normal driving then that would fail

keeper can go above the spring. all adj platform suspension has something to stop the spring binding on the strut or moving off the spring seat, unless its some huckery home made thing

nah that has been changed, you can run solid engine mounts with a rubber gbox mount now, it has been changed in the hobby car manual but not in that ^ standard a urethane mount would still be defined as a flexible mount

you cant weaken the structure of the door so you wouldnt be able to go too mental with the holesaw around the door frame, like near the hinges or catch etc

heres the engine and drivetrain standard. it doesnt tell you specifically how to make a gbox xmember but it is what we have to go off when checking the car. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Engine_&_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf

yes needs cert, and its harder than it used to be due to needing to check for any change in steering geometry- bump steer etc

i just re read it and i sound like someones dad haha FORGOT IT WAS A 4AGE, IT NEEDS ALL THE HELP IT CAN GET PUHUHUHU