cletus

love this shape chev, good price for a 2 door one. front end appears to be HT with later discs (holdens got vented discs from hq-on) not 100% what the calipers are but they dont look like H series holden ones

So i managed to purchase this from a mate, he got it from an old lady who had it stored since 1985 in her garage. has a siezed 318, all original paint which has a lot of surface rust. plans at this point, pull the motor out of this, panel and paint, swap turbo 318 out of my sedan into it, rebuild the engine out of this and insert into more family friendly version of the white VG. the only rusty holey parts in this are the spare wheel hole (will make a new flat boot floor for a fuel cell) and near the rear inner guard ( mini tubs will fix that) will probably take a while but am excited to have a 2 door one of these discuss= //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41371-clintus-valiant-hardtop/?hl=cletus#entry1221535

FYI max for a bolt on spacer is 30mm, max you can offset a rim is 20% of its width if its rwd

had a google as i know fuck all about plastics, but these two bits made me think its probably not suitable 1.Under tensile load, UHMWPE will deform continually as long as the stress is present—an effect called creep. if it does the same thing under compressive loading, the thru bolt will come loose eventually. 2.Its melting point is around 130 to 136 °C (266 to 277 °F),[6] and, according to DSM, it is not advisable to use UHMWPE fibers at temperatures exceeding 80 to 100 °C (176 to 212 °F) for long periods of time. one standard tom? that sounds like my fastener tightening method of "torque to flatulence"

early fords used a mount with a thru-bolt, but is fully isolated. boss got me to use these in an engine conversion i did, they sucked, ended up replacing them with normal round rubber mounts

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-664772460.htm

the only reason you could have for using a poly bush with a bolt thru it as a mount, is for the poly bush to reduce vibration. but the bolt transmits vibration anyway as the bolt and nut are both attached to the things that should be isolated unless you leave the bolt loose enough that it doesnt transmit vibration as much, in which case it isnt tight enough to hold an engine in. if you tighten the bolt properly then the poly bush gets squished out eventually. no problem with using a solid material like aluminium or steel though

odd hobby car manual says you can have solid mounts, it was changed a little while ago so you can have solid engine mounts and rubber gbox mount, before that they had to be all solid or all flexible

there isnt anything saying you cant have a mph speedo

are they proper solid mounts or are they nolathane with a bolt thru it?

good point

so you blew the engine? how did that happen?

incorrect. fitted a cert plate today on a civic that had been pink stickered for this exact reason. ltsa doesnt exist any more, they keep changing, its NZTA now they probably dont care whether civics or corollas are better. your 20v vs 16v head issue- cert it if you want no problems dont cert it if you want to have a potential argue every wof or when you get pulled over. even if you are technically correct, someone will have another idea, especially if you fail the attitude test

they look like they would be fine

yep, this. needs cert for a mod like this.

the loop doesnt have to be round- could you make it flat cross the bottom to clear the mufflers?

yes, yes and yes. one commonly available escort pedal box has a welded box section pedal which is no good for cert purposes. might be better to look at a wilwood or tilton type pedal box. if you are putting injection on your engine, it would be a good time to recert it when you have done all of it

must have been you i saw on saturday arvo? i was in the black val ute

correct. there is no time limit after vin number is issued

sorry didnt mean to make your question sound silly, my ranting was aimed more at that particular way of mounting an engine

actually i read the ad again and its even more retarded than i thought, it comes with a crush tube, so the nolathane does absolutelyfuckinothing. "i have used these on my 323 and you can really feel the power travel through the car"

more cylinders= not as bad. a v8 with solid mounts is not that bad for vibes. a poly engine mount is quite stiff, and quite often if a bonded type, ie the poly is bonded to the 2 steel plates, they break easily. this way of mounting engines is one of my pet hates/causes me to facepalm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-661940362.htm so any movement in the mount flogs out the holes where the bolt goes thru, or at least makes it come loose

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.3 ( 8 ) may be another option for you- if you can strip all the tyres off the rims

as long as it is strong enough then i cant see an issue. the one in that pic has probably had a bit much cut out. if you are not going to adjust the camber as positive as that big bit cut out towards the guard allows, i wouldnt cut it that far. first page in this thread has one done tidily //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29805-mikeys-240z-golly-gosh/

some info that might help http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2011_Rear_Suspension_Radius_Rod_Geometry.pdf