cletus

i used to have a diseasel surf that had similar symptoms, if i left it for a couple of weeks. it had a minor leak at the pump somewhere so it got air in it. pump the filter primer a few times and it was good again

i like your collection. Is the grille on the bro ham modified in some way? looks different to how i remember them

hi, would need a cert, heres the chapter in the hobby car manual regarding fuel systems http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf would need a sealed box around the tank if its inside the passenger compartment

send this guy an email with what you want to do- justin@lvvta.org.nz might be easier to get some standard struts modified. ^that way of doing it may need TAC approval, or at least a bump steer check to make sure b/s is same or better than original the other thing that would put me off is the tie rod ends- if they are a spherical bearing with no boot they wont last long, and if they are some special joint designed for that kit they will be hard/expensive to get new ones when they flog out

good work, looks much more awesomer. theres a good chance it was fitted with that front to 'update and modernise' its look back in the day, instead of buying a new big expensive hearse. have seen a couple of hearses with similar mods.

somewhere i have an old NZ hotrod magazine from the 70s with tech tips on jacking the rear up, and the dangers, ie caster goes all up the wazoo etc

sweet! i have a soft spot for panel vans, my first road car was an escort van, spent a number of nights spewing out the back doors, ha

if its vibrating and hard to steer/pulling, and its happened suddenly- check engine mounts havent broken/sagged, from memory the bellhousing is close to the steering drag link. make sure exhaust isnt jamming up the steering, lower arm bushes, wheels are tight, wheel bearings.....

bolt distance- there isnt a rule, i would space them so it "looks right" shaping the plate to match the floor is good lock washers or nylocs are fine if you weld them, i would just do a couple of plug welds, or short welds on the outside, not all the way round

caddy susp q- ladder bar rear ends have come under a lot more scrutiny recently, a high profile car in auckland had a mishap a couple of years ago because of a broken ladder bar. now to get one legal it has to meet several requirements, one of which is to only have a minimal amount of suspension travel, so that rules out an air bag suspension IMO a ladder bar/2 link style suspension on a street driven vehicle is a cock up, as it either needs to flex somewhere, or it turns the whole rear end into a swingarm and lifts the inside tyre off the ground when you corner hard ish. watch a few drag car crash videos on youtube and you will see what i mean there are some exceptions, like 60s chev trucks, but its hard to replicate that sort of thing easily

regarding the steering shaft question, the forum is being dumb and wont let me post quotes there is about a page and a half on steering shafts in the hobby car manual, unfortunately its not available online and it would take me ages to type it all out. but basically if its a straight shaft that has splines on each end its fairly easy. the book suggests SAE 4130 as an ideal material for a steering shaft.

a complete pedal box from a reputable company like wilwood or tilton will be fine. theres some around that are no brand name ones that have various issues, like pedal welded together, material size not up to spec, welds that are not that good etc.

be careful about buying a pedal box, theres a few that dont meet requirements here

here is the relevant gubbins you require http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/12/importing-a-left-hand-drive-vehicle.html http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/44b/special-interest-vehicles.html

yes, yours would have been a lot more work than a $500 one, once you get into changing the complete front suspension design of the car theres a lot more work to do, even though yours seems simple as its the same configuration, it is the same process and paperwork as a scratch built vehicle.

this, prices will be going up around $35-$40 from what they are now. Not double. the increase is due to another staff member at LVVTA starting recently.

yep. a cert for adjustable suspension, basic mods will be from around 500. scratch built vehicles are dependant on how much work is involved- anywhere from $1200-2000 theres more to it than checking the bolts are done up. youd be surprised how many people fuck it up, thinking they know everything about suspension because they got some coilovers and camber arms in their silvia

if you were to extend the steering shaft, you cant make it longer by welding, it has to be a new longer shaft. do you have any pics of the front suspension?

those wheels are going to look good!

where is the steering rack located? on the crossmember? or on the firewall?

should be in the engine bay, unless theres no room, then it can go in the boot or b pillar etc as long as its on a permanent part of the body, ie a bit that doesnt unbolt, then its fine, most modern cars have no room under the bonnet

luckily, the chapter with the stuff you want to know is available as a sample, otherwise you would have to buy the hobby car manual. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf

as long as its on a structural part of the body in the engine bay, you will be fine. getting them off without damaging them if they are stuck on properly is difficult

yep that would be fine

no. the intent of that rule is so you can fit lowered springs to original style shocks without cert. the bits that stop you doing it is the springs or shock absorbers are direct replacements, neither are direct replacements as they are different dimensions replacement springs are contained within unmodified OE seats throughout full suspension travel, they are not OE seats any more