cletus

every time we submit the paperwork, and it says lowered suspension, we have to supply a wheel alignment report, I know its dumb in your case as the front is only lowered a minimal amount but thats the rules. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf as for the towbar bolts being loose, if the vehicle hasnt had a recent wof check then we have to do a basic safety check like a wof as part of the inspection, that is a legal requirement. if you have a problem with the inspection, feel free to ring me on 0274 522 049 Clint.

good to see it lives again!

i think its this one http://events.stuff.co.nz/venue/west-wind-cinema-club-auckland https://www.google.co.nz/maps/place/177+Riversdale+Rd,+Avondale,+Auckland+1026/@-36.8946117,174.676851,55m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x6d0d41397f154fb1:0x4b010f04b5e91ee7 had a look on google maps, looks like the place i went to

i went on a car club run to a private movie theater off rosebank rd once, that was cool. kind of like a museum sort of place

well done on the whittling, goodness me thats a nice looking chunk of alooominum

would need cert. surely if your driveshaft rubs on the floor its low enough/ has other mods to need cert?

if its hard on it you would need to cut it and raise it, beating it with a hammer would probably not give it enough clearance

you need to talk to a repair certifier and see if they would be happy with you doing the undersealing yourself, im not 100% on the exact rules but i would imagine they have certain products you would have to use

i have looked at a few of them (probably 6 or 7 over the last 8 years) and priced it up, all but 1 ended up removing the rear seats and belts, it gets quite expensive to do.

heres the bit of rule book regarding what needs repair cert or not when a vehicle is being re registered http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/i-and-c/vehicle-structure/threshold-for-requiring-repair-certification there, i learned something, didnt know that was there

its difficult. seems to depend on the inspector. they can ask for a repair cert if theres evidence of repairs or rust visible etc, doesnt need to be flagged at the border, so a re reg car can need it. the thing that can make it a giant drama, is one inspector may not worry about it, where another may ask for cert, and if the panel work is finished and it needs to be stripped again, it can get very expensive. have had it happen to a customer with a nice HQ ute, he had to get most of it repainted after getting it stripped back so the sills could be inspected if i was in this situation (which i am, i have a car thats de reg and needs repairs) i would take it or photos of it to the vin guy i plan on using and see what they say, or get a repair certifier involved from the start. for the cost of a repair cert its cheap insurance against trouble later ( i think they are $350-450ish)

i believe the requirements for the repairers has got tougher recently, repair cert has to be signed off by a repair certifier still

cool idea!

ill be there.

usually the shocks on their own are ok, have seen a few leaky ones but they can be repaired. have looked at a lot of bilstein kits for specific models that have springs that are too soft, leading to the spring coils binding, usually on euro stuff like audi/vw/bmw one was a set in a bmw z3 that wasnt adjustable, had bilstein springs and shocks, and it had 10mm of bump travel and a few cases of shocks bottoming out before the bumpstop limits the travel- in a macpherson strut application, to be fair they had been repaired so that may have been the fault of the workshop fitting the wrong length insert

a previous car i owned had a recored standard brass/copper thing with a core from a chev of some description, and a pickapart fan, could do skids all day and never get hot. current car has fancy afco double pass alloy radiator with an expensive davies craig elec fan and its always borderline, it gets hot on a warm day, or at the drags etc. and it weeps antifreeze somewhere the core goes into the tank next time will go back to copper and pickapart combo

pinion nut has come loose?

no, theres some problem with te rules regarding quadwakas , i remember having a big korero with that guy that built the subaru quad thing and he couldnt register it because its not a car it has handlebars, and no seatbelts and it cant be a bike cause it has too many wheels

if i had to buy a set of adj struts i would get BC gold. ive certed hundreds of sets of them and only ever seen 1 set that had a problem, and they had been caned in a race car. they usually have brake hose brackets attached in the right place as well which can make installing them much easier. D2 are bad for leaking, the new generation ones are better but still have the odd problem fortune auto seem ok but havnt done many sets of those STD brand is waaaaay too stiff for road use tein doesnt usually go very low unless you get the more expensive ones that have strut length adjustment HSD not too bad, large range of shock adjustment that goes from soft as original to quite firm i wouldnt bother buying anything second hand or any china brand you have never heard of or if it has no brand name on it anywhere bilstein is over rated IMO have had numerous issues with them tis late, thats all the info my brain will release on the matter currently

it would pay to have a chat with a repair certifier about the repairs before you get started, it will need a repair cert if you are going to re reg it with the dead plates

brake test for cert= up to 50% power increase, 3 stops from 100-0kph under 4.4 sec in a total of 2 min 50% or more power increase= 5 stops 100-0kph under 4.4 sec total 3 min.

the big book of rules doesnt mention spacers, only deals with lengthening the shaft itself. i cant see a reason why you couldnt do it if its made properly, centered on the spigot of the pinion and drive flange etc, its no different to wheel spacers or adaptors....might be an idea to contact LVVTA first. sometimes things like that are not in the book cause nobody thought of it before. as for drive shaft length , rule says it must have the majority of the yoke coupling length engaged thru the range of travel.

if you need to reduce rear brake, you need a smaller wheel cylinder, not bigger. adjust it coarsely with the wheel cylinder size, and use a proportioning valve to fine tune it. those wilwood valves dont have enough adjustment to fix it if the difference is too great now would be a good time to upgrade the front brakes to vented ones at least, if its going to get driven hard/pass a cert brake test it will probably struggle with solid discs also if the shoes have been contaminated with brake fluid or oil etc they can be 'grabby' even if they have been cleaned, as the shit soaks into the linings

is this the one that got pinched? you got it back ?

i dont think a certifier would be bothered by it. im just glad when they actually turn up ha