cletus

i usually measure rims by putting a tape measure thru the spokes and measuring bead to bead as for the offset being too much, a certifier should pick it up, 20% is the maximum, unless you fit different heavier duty hubs as per the LVV std

yes rubber/universal/cv joint all need loops

the NDT request form is filled out by the certifier so he can give you one washers on top of the floor- dont need to be welded. i usually make a 100x50 washer and tack weld the bolts to it so you can take the loop out without having to remove all the carpets etc

mounts- what engine and what car? probably ok if you are replicating the factory deal but may need strengthening if it has heaps more power or if its a much heavier engine seats- make sure the flat bar doesnt flex. if the seat mounts are in a lot further than the rails, then you might need 10mm bar, but if the seat mounts are very close to the rails you might get away with 3mm. welding is ok if its strong enough with gussets where needed etc

30mm for adaptors, 20mm for spacers. 4 to 5 would only work if the 2 studs that end up really close have enough material between them to be strong enough. changing the stud pattern is a better way of doing it if you can

caliper brackets- you can weld them but has to be tig and crack tested. its better to make them from 1 piece if you can. especially if the tig is going to struggle to get enough penetration a different design may be a better idea most welding on a vehicle can be done by anybody who can weld competently, and can be mig welded Some things are considered "critical" components ie brake caliper brackets, suspension arms, etc and have to be TIG welded and crack tested. you can do a chassis notch. best to talk to the certifier you plan on using about what their requirements would be

valiant engines are on the piss by a considerable amount, in the wrong direction, ie closer to the steering box. chrysler australia used the US spec floorpan which had the engine offset to clear the box. one of the reasons i put a turbo on mine, having it on the passenger side visually balances it out. originally i was going to put a blower on but the fact it would stick out the bonnet not in the middle would have bugged me

this is the cam, http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-k50052/overview/ I ended up getting those magnum flat top pistons and they look like they will fit without having to do anything to the rods. oddball ring sizes though. Have got bits i pinched off the ute, 500cfm edelbrock carb, performer intake, tri-y headers, MSD ignition. I will probably give the heads a bit of a tickle up

thats the plan. stronger driveline, more boost, and lighter weight is the aim

back to tridens for now, they are 14x7 with 195/60 on the front and 205/60 on the back. the steel wheels are 14x7.25 i think from memory, i had them widened as much as i could but the rears rub a bit under hard cornering, i should have got the centers moved before i had them powdercoated

Next plan- this is getting the engine out of my coupe, which was seized, pulled it apart and ordered a bunch of bits for it. When i bought the coupe, i had 3 at once so i did a big swap around, pinched all the good bits off the ute i had and sold it, and kept them for this car. So it will have a mild 318, with some small mods to make it a good family cruiser. 500cfm edelbrock carb, dual plane manifold, MSD ignition, headers, little cam, some 30 over magnum pistons which are a bit different to the original ones Have had wanky ideas of running a cat converter on it, i would like to see if i can get an old shitter like this to run close to clean as a modern car just to prove it can be done. And if it doesnt i can leave the cat off and say nothing and pretend it never happened.

So now we have a house with a bigger garage, ive got this at home. Stripped the interior out today as it was FULL of rat poos, old rubbish from the 80s, pictures of jeebus, pencils and 2c coins, and a rug with a tiger on it. floor looked good from underneath, and even better on top, its like a new one, sweet!

i like it! luxurious boganity

as far as certifiers are concerned, we have to refer the vehicle to a TSDA (vinz/aa/vtnz that does re reg) for validation of the vehicle id there is a form wof inspectors can fill out if they find something dodgy as well theres a tech article about this stuff if you are interested //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43031-tips-for-avoiding-dodgy-cars/

had a look at a commode today, that "was a v6 originally and its had a v8 swapped into it" hmm. can see where the ss badges were on the boot and doors those rivets on the chassis tags dont look original, and theres little scratches on the one that lives under the windscreen its a 2002 and its only done 12,000km the details and stuff on the front page of the owners manual has been ripped out oh, and someones attacked the engine number with a chisel and if you can get the cops to say thats all ok, then it needs driveshaft loops, lol

its the increase over what it originally had, (over 50%) so you would need loops. ignore that bit about #43, thats to do with the layout of the checksheet we use and the process of the cert inspection

yep if its suitably strong, that would work

if the driveshaft is standard and not modified, and a 2 or 1j makes less powers than the original engine, then no

yep as long as it is definitely 11'', thats fine according to the chart

i use the proper measurement, ie the bead to bead one

the hobby car manual has the recommended pedal ratios, which are different for boosted and non boosted pedals, i cant remember off the top of my head what they are, helpful eh. another thing to make sure of, is that the master cyl can be used without a booster. some master cyls have nothing stopping the piston falling out the back, ie no circlip to hold it in

this x 2 plain panel with no windows does look cool, but not practical, unless you have big side mirrors. also i think if its got windows there already, might look odd with them vinyled over

sweet! very similar to my first car, i have always wanted another one

have edited my post as it was a bit confusing

if you remove the blocks and raise the front back up, you wont need the alignment report. its the front suspension being lowered that means you need the alignment report, as you have pointed out, the lowering blocks make no difference to camber, when we do a cert check on a 4x4 with solid diffs front and rear we dont have to get a wheel align report. once its certed then the vehicle has to match what the cert plate says, so if its certed for an engine swap and has original suspension, then it gets lowered, it needs certing again- even if the modifications fall within the wof criteria