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cletus

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Everything posted by cletus

  1. sorry, should clarify, legal to make your own but they would need certification
  2. its probably because your definition of "fit" means it bolts in and has clearance and doesnt rub on the body and looks right. whereas everyone elses definition of fit, is the same definition that those big bum poly/maori girls have when they are choosing to wear tights that you can see through because the elasticity has been stretched well past the manufacturers design parameters
  3. that will be why no cunt ever bolts the things in properly. i have done judging at 4&rotree show in auckland last couple of years and probably a third of the cars had radiators held in with a mixture of gravity, cable ties and hopes & dreams
  4. Yes you can make your own if done correctly
  5. best thing you could do is find some sort of proof the wheels are an OE fitment, like a pic from a sales brochure, etc and keep it in the car. Tyre sizes never get recorded on the cert plate for some reason
  6. you can get a re print of your cert plate through another certifier, contact don hoff and he should be able to get you another one printed with correct details, probably get the amount of body lift put on it. quite often, there are changes that result in more emphasis being put on certain things, and what may have been no problem 5 years ago, now it is
  7. I think he starts early and finishes early now, to avoid traffic etc
  8. Tim @ TTT automotive, hes in dominion rd, has done a few of them.
  9. probably only 5mm or so. i had just had it certed so CBF re doing the cert just for some spacers
  10. funny looking air guitar you have there
  11. oh an i put a tow bar on it (easily removable, as towbars and mudflaps can GTFO) so i could tow a car back from rotorua, but I fucked it up and made it so it cant fit the type of hitch that the car trailer has, derp. didnt find that out until i went to put the trailer on at the hire place.
  12. I am now officially sick of working on the distributor on this. The original lucas electronic dizzy shit itself a couple of months ago. i had a spare points one that i was going to throw in it but it was a bit pooched inside after i pulled it apart, so i dismantled the lucas one to make one out of the 2. But they are different inside. So start looking for a replacement. i have a MSD flash harry one that i could put in, but would need to change all the plug lead ends, and i had a clean out and threw out the other set of plug lead ends that would have fitted. Plus i need the flash one for the good engine in the other car. In the end i reset the gap on the magnetic pickup and it worked, so i figured it was ok, and then was a good opportunity to sort out the advance curve. So i welded up the advance stops and filed them to get the right amount of advance, put it back in and away it went, ran well for a couple of weeks, until yesterday when it wouldnt go again. So, the only things i could get easily was a $700 MSD one or a selection of $120 china ones. Didnt want to spend $700, so got a billet china one with no vacuum advance, put it in, but it had a million more advances than it needed again- 40 deg all in even with setting the initial timing at 5deg, at which it sounded like a flat old turd. pulled it out again, it doesnt have any sort of adjustment but i expected that, dicked around with welding up the weights and using science and luck and my eyecrometer, now it has 36 all in and 16 initial, which it seems to like. The good thing about having to pull it apart is it doesnt seem too badly built for the price.
  13. was offset, hit top arm/balljoint/tierod end i think. i borrowed one to try on the ute when i got the shits with leaky wide steels
  14. those repro tridens dont fit on the front of a val without spacers
  15. http://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Bare-Long-Motors-39/RB30-Stock-Internal-Long-Engine---2WD-12.html not even that expensive really
  16. looks like a toyota one? maybe they CBF making 2 different ones
  17. All of the RPMs! Looks like it goes better now. its quite impressive how well it stands up to that much caning
  18. You can get it converted by a power steering specialist. they make a new input shaft without a torsion bar in it apparently
  19. mount your buckles on the original buckle anchorages, that will be easier. otherwise, depending on the height of the seat, it becomes classed as a stressed seat, and the mounting requirements are different
  20. can be done if the new bolt pattern is as strong as the original one, ie if its double skinned, still bolts thru the double skin part, strut top is the same size as the original one, etc
  21. yeah you can make a new one, but it has to be 1 piece with no welds etc, even if its mild steel
  22. from a cert point of view, you cant modify that part rack would be no better as it would have to be in the same place anyway, unless you make new steering arms to drop the whole deal down. you could make a new one but its probably less drama to make a sump that fits instead
  23. theres something somewhere in a newsletter that ill have to find, about these things
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