cletus

Will depend on the wof guy Can you give it a massage for a bit of clearance where it's rubbing ?

It's in the car construction manual Suspension chapter and wheel tyre one

if you have an abundance of lap belts that are date stamped 67, pick the best 2 for the front the rules state that a post 55 vehicle should have lap and diagonal belts in the front as a minimum (tbh this is a good idea, a lap diag belt is many times safer than a lap belt) OR the oem lap belts if they are in good condition a lot of people get caught out by fitting a nice new pair of repro factory style lap belts but once the factory ones are removed, any replacement belt has to be the correct lap diag type which means in a lot of cars, having to make anchorages and getting lvv cert

There's a infosheet on limits for custom tie rod ends https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2020_Spherical_Bearing_Rod_End_Conversion.pdf Before you start on this option, you need to understand steering geometry and bump steer , what it does, and how to fix it https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf This is one of those situations where it might be a better option to get some new suspension that fits rather than come up with custom made steering parts to fit some second hand suspension

they do have a lovely selection of pies there good work sheepers, i am impressed at your complete lack of ; lollygagging mucking around lazing about thumb twiddling hesitation dilly dallying goofing off dawdling

Russell, drive shaft specialists, Andromeda crescent east tamaki is who I usually recommend He's reasonably priced and does good work.

ah right, i thought you were just wanting to swap the guibo thing for a u joint

Driveshaft adapters are currently a no-go without TAC approval If it was to be approved you would also need drive shaft loop And a lvv cert because of driveshaft modifications = spend 2k to avoid replacing a $80 part I don't know why driveshaft adapters are not legal

Looks like one of those British market broncos that are not worth as much, so Clean it, get rid of as much rust as possible and seal it up with something that lasts as long as possible, and when it's dried coat it in lanocote both sides would be what I would do in that situation , if the cbf levels are high

I'd bet someone has jammed a single cab tray on, that's a lot of overhang I've seen that style of tow bar before but they usually have angled supports that go forward

its hard to keep track of all of the different revenue gathering that us certifiers do, especially after i hurt my head diving into my swimming pool full of money, i wasnt thinking about my money diving because i was preoccupied with thinking up new random rules to make things difficult for the peasants modifiying their motor vehicles and also trying to find a new hitler uniform because my old one is worn out from wearing it to work (where i do 10 minutes of work and write out an invoice for $2500) also i have a tiny penis, that is why i became a certifier

Interestingly , lately the more common situation, because of the stretched tyre look no longer being cool - and people being more aware of what sizes are allowed, is people putting too wide tyres on narrow rims- usually older blokes who get a bit fizzed up when their hot rod or beach hop special fails because they put 275 60s on a 7 inch wide rim and I tell them it's because of the young buggers who stretch their tyres so now we have this chart thing "aww bloody ridiculous it's been like this for years it's just revenue gathering bloody LTNZ etc etc"

yes

That will be fine The wording in the book was meant to stop someone from slotting or drilling their own discs themselves and causing cracks, weakness etc The only thing I'd be cautious with is making sure the spacers on the stud holes are attached somehow so they can't escape when someone removes a wheel or works on the brakes Ie press fit into the disc The brake chapter of the CCM is due for a new update to be released soon , so the wording may be improved

Got the draglites polished and tyres on, some 175 65 on the front and Hoosiers on the back with the white lettering removed can actually use full steam ahead in 1st and 2nd without it doing wheelspins so maybe I need a better tyre for general use

If you're talking about an aftermarket replacement bolt in half shaft and everything else is stock, and it's a shaft only ie not a jag where the shaft is also a "suspension arm" , probably not If it's to fit some other diff like a datsun etc it would need a cert for that anyway so would be covered at the same time

assuming you are talking about a ute or van where the ball joint is under the arm and the shock or bump stop is on the bottom arm probably ok if the bolts are big enough and that part of the arm is strong enough to handle bump loads, as they will be holding up the vehicle instead of just holding the joint against the bottom of the arm and theres no other problems like upper ball joint bind or mental camber because the suspension then has heaps more travel in bump

cant see a problem with that, would need lvv cert as its a modification, rather than a repair

Was the valve bent/burnt ?

Would be do able for sure How difficult it would be is a how long is a piece of string question The main thing would be making sure the body has appropriate framing in it for seat belts, door hinges, door framing, torsional rigidity, etc. If it doesn't have this then adding it can be difficult depending on how the body is made

Is it definitely a hole from a yuck weld? Make sure it's not a crack from flexing or stress , if it's not that then I'd probably just jb weld or similar , Unless you can remove the housing and strip/clean it super well Welding oily steel under a car is probably just going to cause more yuckness and hot balls of weld in your ear/armpits

Cadillac? Can you remove the torque converter cover and get a pry bar on the ring gear?

A customer who was painful to deal with came back for the 4th recheck and he had stripped the thread on that bolt, I thought to save everyone headaches I'd just wang a new bolt in but found as you have that it's a wierd one I ended up spinning up a top hat spacer (12mm id 14 od?) and using a 12mm ? bolt

Wheels done, chin spoiler, black battery cover, painted the starter cover, fitted a direct solenoid button thing on the starter to stop the annoying "sounds like the battery is flat" noise when it's cold, new front pads

New tyre fitted While it's off, may as well tidy some stuff up Mucked around for ages deciding what to do with the wheel colour/finish as it needs to tie in with whatever colour I end up painting the bike Anyway decided on this, the FXDX which is the sportier version of this bike had this wheel finish, black spokes with a machined face which I replicated with satin black and scotchbrite pads. The rear one I brush painted it to avoid paint on the faces but got it on there anyway, so the front one I sprayed with a gun and scraped /wiped with thinners the paint off the faces This took forever Front disc is on minimum thickness, one other mod I'd like to do is twin discs on the front so will worry about that later