kpr

ac/dc tig, 200amp or more, budget around 3k. Any stand out machines these days? or chose your chinese shade of colour ?

might be able to change that idler pulley to an eccentric type one, to get belt adjustment

as above, will be fine long as has airflow through it. big reason for cooling issues is air either goes around radiator, or has no where to get out the other side

with the right exhaust setup, should be able to run the high cam way down at 4500 - 5000rpm and gain stacks of mid range. cam spec roman 1nz 266/266? deg 2zzge high cam 292/276 deg 7age 284/278 deg

toyota hemi, basically ultimate turd polishing. along with low weight, close ratio box and well setup cars. probably some exotic fuel. Even though only 2 valve, the bigger bore than stroke allows bigger valves to fit in same capacity. one of those engines that have plenty of scope to modify but nothing special in factory config.

2zz- 82mm bore 85mm stroke 3tc - 85mm bore 78 mm stroke 3tc = race car engine

trailing coils are just a basic single coil as far is i know. so long as igniter can supply enough current, should be able to use them in what every configuration you like. fc/fd leading coil is a wasted spark. the trailing coils are direct fire.

@BiTurbo228 any chance you could do the long rod with the 404gram pistons? sorry thread hijack. I was also most worried about the stock pistons letting go. i think the long rod with lighter aftermarket pistons should be fairly happy.

interesting stuff. The pistons in my short rod engine are 404 grams, inc pin and rings. rods around 465 grams. Long rod engine was stock pistons- 443 grams , rods 487 grams guessing the long rod, even though pulling a few less g's would more likely to fly to bits due to the piston weight.

6-1 in firing order please. Also isn't there a free 1nzfe oil filter housing, on the side of the road not far from you?

those bolts holding headers on that alfa thing look like they would ruin your life Yeah unsure if the sudden change in cross section is a good thing or bad thing. but can say the cobys i tested with the ugly big open collector made less power everywhere. other being not very even, primary lengths were similar to my headers. so the the collector was the main difference. soo seems like at least cutting down that space maybe a good thing. or possible just the shape? If it was some way possible to eliminate said change in area would primary length be irrelevant. Also any sudden change in cross sectional area i have tested in various places in exhaust, has always given negative or at least no gains. where as changing the same transition to a diverging cone has given some power gain.

Guess there are 2 different ways of thinking. Treat like 2 3 cylinder engines - merge collector cone up to 3" into some big reso's then merge into a singe 3" after them Attempt to get some secondary tuning from the 2 pipes after the primary's, keeping them smaller, 2" or so into a 2nd merge, cone out into 3.5" into a big single reso. drop back to 3" after said reso. Either way i think your just under 2" or 2" "pinch point" after the merge sounds about right. Also the pipes after the primary collector should be even length, to stop it sounding like balls. guessing you already come to that conclusion though. How long are your primary tubes going to be?

Closed loop should only be there for a fine trim. if isn't running right in open loop, tune sucks or something has gone wrong. As roman said. too many variables to use egt to tune. main use of egt probes is to see if you have a cylinder/s running different than the rest. rather than having a wideband in each cylinder. Just tune it right with wideband, then run in "open loop"

Can be used to smooth out the bumps in power curve. But having runners all the same length, at the ideal length. will get you best over all power by a little bit. Also if your picky about your afr. will be a bit all over the shop, unless tune each cylinder

I haven't play with stock stuff since forever ago, but pretty sure the bigger 2 are are water. rest are vac for various things. idle up solenoids and the likes. can block them off. water at educated guess are far left and far right (bendy one) but should be able to figure it out by blowing through them

Yeah most people don't try anything that long, due to fitment / too hard basket in a lot of engine bays. But its really where the advantage is. when it comes to getting it dyno tuned. Id suggest having a way to try 20-30mm either way from that 320 length. is enough to see the power curve move around, to see if your in the right place. even though can shuffle it a bit with the vct , there still a litte bit to be had getting it bang on. If going to make a plenum for it. make it big as possible. same deal with feed pipe. Yeah kinda re the skunk2 manifold, the runner length thing works just the same on turbo stuff though. It keeps coming back to the packaging thing and being a diddle to make. shiny parts sell.

one word -> packaging they will be aiming for the 3rd harmonic (itb's, the skunk2 maybe even 4th) im aiming for the 2nd, which is stronger = more power tapered is said to accelerate the air. maybe. but are also losses in the pipe, so need to go bigger further from head to keep flow the same as. real world isn't much effective length difference with taper, unless is way too much. or turns into a massive bell mouth, which will act like the pipe ends part way down the bellmouth into the runner, rather than the face. in your case yeah i would taper out soon as get past the throttle plate. Example of engine not caring too much if runners are too big; The runners on the manifold i made are 2.25" tube. think its 53 or 54mm id. half way around the bend it starts tapering down to the port. so yeah its big. bigger than the rbc intake and huge compared to the stock k24 manifold. but still gains power right down at 4000rpm. close to 10% at that point, so not a small gain either. Another example. The only place my 4age with 52mm throttles drops below a stock engine is under 2000rpm.

Yup, thats the same inlet test i was referring to. Have you looked into s65 bmw throttles? they are 52mm, spacing should be pretty close for k series. the also have an oval outlet similar shape to the port. Have a separate dbw module that can be used if wanted to go that way. but is known to crap out. I'd probably target 8000rpm maybe a touch under for your intake runner length. about 320mm from port face should get you ballpark. you want to get the intake tuning right where the engine naturally wants to make peak power. will make more power and fatten it up that way. rather than kinda trying to force it to make more power right up top. like your current intake looks to be doing. The VCT (cam timing) is also your friend here. you can use it to hang onto the power past peak a bit longer. If do everything right it should at least match the power it has now right up top 8500- 9k and make a bunch more 7500- 8000rpm plus more through the mid range The runner length on the manifold in video is around the 350mm mark, as was targeting bit lower rpm.

As above, I have been looking at some of the stuff they post. as been playing with a k24. They quote all these different gains in bhp, but the wheel hp on the same graph says something different. also mega driveline losses. Ive roughly overlaid the graphs blue is the wheel hp. red "engine" power. light lines stock intake, dark itb. Looking at the wheel power. the stock intake manifold would be a quicker car. unless you could run between 8000 & 9000 rpm the whole time. even then wouldnt be anything in it. Why, The itb's will probably flow more. but the runners are way to short to make any jam over the whole rev range. stock inlet will be running out of flow and or slightly too long to make power at 9k ITB's only work good if you dial in the runner length and have the flow to go with it. Seems to be super common with K series stuff. even the factory inlets. They are too short with big runners. or long with small runners. I think those itb's you have will be a touch on the small side. possibly ok. but can get away with over sizing the intake a bit. not so much under sizing it. if make the runners small enough to gain in the bottom end (talking rpm you will never use in circuit car) will lose top end. if a bit too big, not much happens. not trying to lecture you, just wouldn't be fun to have to do it twice if you didn't have to. This is the intake i just made for k24. Big long runners. gains everywhere over RBC honda inlet. which is spose to make more peak power that the stock ep3 one they compared the itbs too.

Tuned a 1.5jz with all the good bits on it the other day. had those xpert injectors in it. maybe the 1350cc version, still a decap'd bosch either way. was happily making over 400kw, no drama tuning it. you can also get the genuine 7 hole bosch injectors which are 980cc. if dont want a modified injector

looking at your thread you have something like below. and are thinking of dropping smaller after the 2.5" collector? This is what i was meaning. angle straight down to 2" or so where all 4 pipes collect. The big straight through is key to making it work. think of the exhaust ending after them. what you do after isn't so important. long as the pipe size is big enough not restrict airflow. merging into a single 2.5" probably fine in your case. but you cant make it too big. just makes it harder to cut the noise down. all the power is in the headers and the section before the first reso's

run the biggest glass pack straight through muffler /resos you can fit for the first mufflers. put the chambered ones at the back sizes yeh you can drop down smaller, but need to do it at the merge. then go back out kinda like a megaphone setup. if you do it right and place said above mufflers in right place. will gain power off the bottom.

probably just the usual shorter block height on the 4gr, usually a toyota / most manufacturers move. save some material cost and make engine bit shorter. so yeah longer rods would be needed. probably giving a rod ratio well over 2. bigger bore, bigger valves bit more capacity. probably blow the budget, but would be pretty cool if the crank did swap over

2gr with 4gr crank.

ok ok, heres an update