kpr

OD: 76mm Wall 2mm 2.5m = 3.14kg pir2 halve your weight double your power and prepare to weld it back together when it falls apart : Aluminium

Sick land cruiser

torque at wheels, isn't a useful measurement. depends what gear you are in. they could have got it wrong and thats at the engine. would need 200kw down at 2000rpm to make that at engine, or 250kw at 2500rpm

Handbrake is on rear drums factory. transfer case one that come off is a trailgear setup. will likely redo the rear brakes with calipers that have internal hand brake. run a normal style handbrake leaver between seats

Taking way longer and changing more stuff than planed. Although thats fairly normal with this thing. Fuel filters were in the way of new intake. so have run new fuel lines. mounted new filter by the fuel tank. line splits in engine bay for the 2 rails. reused and remounted the old hard line feed for the return. Not much to look at here. pretty clean under there, because all the dirt is now in my eyes. ali exhaust hanging in there. Pulled the transfer case mounted e brake off. handbrake cable doesn't fit with throttles. that was enough of an excuse to throw that junk in the bin. Its heavy and have hated on it since i got it. will be no handbrake guy for awhile. untill i get motivated to make a new setup. chucked a new driveshaft seal in while was there, since leaky Throttles assembled and balanced ready to go on vac rail finished. air bybass on back. map,bov,fpr on front. some butchery of an old throttle body welded on bottom for throttle linkage throttles bolted on for good. fuel rails and lines mocked up ready to go. yeah i cheaped out on fancy banjo fittings. Moved ps reso to other side of engine bay and redone all the lines, as they were pretty janky before. moving the reso along with new intercooler pipes, frees up the whole corner in front of the turbo for a better airbox setup. that someday may make. hmmm wires, not keen

Im with ol mate @Roman on this one. They are bad at heating the air running normal let alone overspinning and air being sent through for another go. Also the e throttle idea is basically the same as what the factory sc14 stepper motor does . Combined with the sc clutch can control when an how much boost . Not sure how much the sc clutch likes being tuned on at all the rpm, but was switching one on at 4000rpm for a short time and didnt nuke itself

Yeah can get good results in alpha n only. Only benifit using map at idle would be so you can run an air bypass for idle control.

Will be the problem. they sound just like that when have a lean cylinder. will missfire and pop out the intake. Need to do 2 adjustments on 20v throttles. balance each throttle on its throttle stop . then there is a 2nd adjustment so all the throttles start to open at the same time. if they were balanced on the throttle stops and 2nd adjustment wasn't done, soon as apply throttle via throttle linkage they will go unbalanced. Also if they have been removed from manifold at any time will likely need rebalancing. Have had best results ditching as much of the vac stuff as you can. Hook up brake booster leave rest disconnected. Map sensor - not really any point having it on alpha n tune. (ive been out of the ms game for years. does it have a separate sensor for baro correction or can use map sensor?) Fuel reg - leave the vac disconnected, running a flat fuel pressure is far easier to deal with; your tune has no idea of map, so your pressure reg shouldn't either Make sure all 6 ports on the throttles are blocked Basically any air that doesn't go through the throttle plates and into the engine is going to give you a bad day. Running baro correction on the alpha n tune?

You need to balance the throttles. that cylinder will be sucking in more than the rest. I assume you have set the idle by cracking the throttles open? whats the rest of your setup. using any vac? booster, fuel reg etc.? tps/alpha n tune? ecu?

should be fine either way, with the engine you're planning. worst case you will just need to step up to better fuel. tuning with knock detection is key.

Had to go do stuff... Re fuel, compression ratios etc. Probabaly noticed have been avioding giving a straight answer; Because to many variables. 95 probably ok going by what you have said. Should be tuneable. But wouldnt expect to get the most out of it. Same reasons haven't posted to many examples. My 4age have run 11.5 compression on 11psi (turbo) with 98 fuel. But different engine and to many variables to compare.

knock detection is easy enough. I just use a donut style sensor and a small audio amp and headphones. Think it was old mate @Roman dave? that was using laptop mic input then headphones out to do similar thing, via some software. i kinda like the amp idea since aren't changing from analog to digital back to analog. but may not be an issue. biggest thing is knowing what your listening for. some engines with noisy valvetrain it can be a pain in the ass to catch it early. quiet engines are easy. using the ecu to detect knock can be done, but is a pain in the ass to setup and alot of them suffer from false alarms. you pretty much need to knock the engine to set it up also. if your octane/knock limited best to go the audio way. advance timing till have light knock. then back it off 2-3 degrees. thats your timing number.

100 sounds amazing. can get away with a bit more on 98 than 95. just have to try it. tune with knock detection an example: going from 95 to 98. let me run another 4psi boost and gain 30kw on a 1500cc engine

20r pistons sound like a plan then. i was more saying don't get caught up on .7 compression ratio than going either way. sounds like will work all good to me, with that boost,compression plus being intercooled. assume 98 octane fuel? just dont want to get into the situation where have to retard the timing too much. the estima? vans the sc14's come on have a big stepper bypass valve, 1.5" diameter. can run with the charger clutch off when cruising and have the valve open. could even use it to bleed off some boost at low rpm if you happened to run into knock down there. not the best way to do it but is an option

will have higher cylinder pressure for same power with supercharger vs turbo. taking power directly from the power stroke to drive the supercharger. plus as above, forcing air in at low rpm especially non intercooled is a recipe for knock. once engine is spinning faster can get away with more. its a balance of a lot of things. boost, fuel quality, air temp, compression ratio. going from 9.2 to 8.5 compression ratio honestly isn't that big of a change, run a psi or 2 less boost and your back in the game on the 9.2 engine turbo is just easier as need less power in the cylinder to make the same power at the crank. and can do things like ramping the boost up at high rpm where engine less likely to knock

Bigger is better. Less exhaust pressure. Better spool. Less manifold pressure, less heat build up and less likely to knock. Not saying 2.5 wont work. But i would be going 3"

Your 1.5mm cometic gasket and piston skim idea should work fine 9.2 still up there for a supercharger but good gas, tune and fuel. should be all good if you aren't going to run all the boost. supercharger bit harder on the engine than turbo. would avoid copper gaskets. will be chasing leaks forever some flatop/less domed pistons and normal thickness gasket, to make use of the little squish area prob best option doesnt look like much opportunity to take material from the chambers going by that picture

what kind of compression are we talking? would avoid running a thick head gasket if you can, got a close up picture of the combustion chambers? maybe able to take some material out.

Waiting on parts to finish the throttle & plenum setup. so pulled the radiator and intercooler out to modify the intercooler pipe. Then went full retard and cut up the radiator. cut a bit off the end and relocated the outlet pipes Why? more room for other stuff and that part of the radiator was mostly blocked off from airflow anyways. Redone the turbo side pipe, as well as the inlet side. the pile of pipes at bottom of pic is the old stuff that come off it. Yep that cast elbow looks horrible for flow ^ thats why i chopped it up, so goes from 2.5" to about same area as 3" pipe. The intercooler is on the list to go in the bin. because is heavy and junk. I brought the cheapest one i could get when originally built the truck. Staying for now but will go to a tube and fin one day. 2.5" hot side 3" cold side. old was 2.5" . even though the pipe is bigger have cut the length down quite a bit. so probably sill less area in the pipework than the old setup

Could do a few things to say away from the limiter, run a light waste gate spring + boost control solenoid. set it up so the last 500rpm so it tapers back to gate pressure. then power will roll off before getting to limiter, plus a little bit of ign retard and well setup limiter. or run an e-throttle and use that as limiter like a lot of newer cars do

Have made them out of a bit of everything over the years, inc pink bats i pinched from my oldies ceiling. But yeh, the above is a good idea for the .. above reasons. Have used straight chop strand fiberglass on a lot of them. they do burn out after awhile but not as fast as you would think. closer to the engine, the faster it will happen. the stainless wool around the perf first is a good idea. different sizes and shapes will be better at shutting up different tones. don't ask me what size does what because i don't know. but its the reason why its good to use at least 2 different size/ shaped mufflers in same system. for the ls1 3" will be fine if its stock. The time to ignore the above chart, is on na engine with big cams and overlap. Edit: yet another top fail

4x100 or 110? Fwd gt starlet ep82 rear hubs (4×100) fit on kp stub axle which pretty sure is the same as ke20. Hub and rotor is all one part though.

kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string

The hydramat seems to work amazing. But wouldn't bother doing both, either just run a hydramat in stock tank, maybe with some fuel foam. or do a good drop section or surge tank. which ever is cheapest / easiest. The hydramats are pretty pricey, but worth looking at if it makes your life easier

Tested plenum on kp, looses power with side panel on. after cutting stuff up, seems taper tubes or slot aren't a restriction, as does the same with them removed. have come to conclusion kp engine doesn't like a plenum, or at least one this size. possibly the bellmouths need more space to the roof of plenum. either way cant do much about it. so going to weld it up and see what it does on hilux got bit more done on throttles, bosses welded on vac rail. Throttle plates etc modified and back in. linkage rail re-drilled. pretty much everything needs modifying / butchering to get the throttles close enough together. Found a plug on aliepress that vaguely sounded like the right one for the tps. after a few dollars and the usual wait it actually fits Dug out this smaller 55amp alternator, fits on current lower bracket, will fit up close to block once have added more adjustment to top bracket. Was pretty toasted, so chucked some new parts at it. Never really attempted to rebuild an alternator before, was pretty easy Even found a sightly bigger pulley in my pile of junk alternators,