Yowzer

Top of my head says they should be 8-10NM? so barely a flick of the wrist on a 1/4 drive Also, add boost. It'll mask a lot of the issues with sweet sweet turbo whistle

I can't recall the brand of the one I was gonna get, which is annoying me, but it was about $400 and combined EGT, boost and whatever additional temp sensor into one unit. I think the scales could be adjusted too Edit: this might be the one I'm thinking of, if not it's very similar. https://www.redarcelectronics.co.nz/monitoring-gauges-g52-bet

You know it's a K series, right? It's already as disgusting as it can get

It's on the lvvta website, can't recall want it is off the top of my head

Get out.

Yeah that's the doofer

I usually outsource that stuff but they're easy as fuck. Just pull the end off and whip out the old pack, clean the whatever it's called the brushes run on with fine Emery tape and chuck in the new pack. Good to go.

+1 for outsourcing. Some jobs just aren't worth your time.

Unless you're running something crazy high powered, your oil pressure should be quite significantly higher than your boost pressure anyway so there shouldn't be air leakage into the oil supply while running

Because they can. Just put a tone wheel on your crankshaft already. The freeplay in the drive between crank and dizzy is going to be greater than any inaccuracy caused by low tooth count anyway.

It really makes no difference. You could run four teeth and still be sweet. If you're after all the kilowatts and screaming it out to 12k, running sequential injection and CoP then yeah, higher resolution could give you an advantage (depending on the ECU), but otherwise there's no need to overcomplicate things.

Why so many teeth? Just run 12 and you'll be mint.

Ah yeah V belt. Probably not then.

Is there an edge on the crank pulley that you can cut the teeth directly into? That's what I'm doing on mine since I don't want the tone wheel way out the front

I believe centering rings are required, and you can't redrill from 4 to 5 stud or vice versa, but redrilling the same stud count is ok. I think.

^ Yup start with that. Smoke test if you can, spray brakleen around if you can't. Faulty PCV valves can also do funny things at idle too, pays to whip a new one in while you're at it.

They also look cooler

They move constantly. If you've ever watched the live data on a VVTi car, they dance around all over the show.

Spring-loaded hinge with a titanium spark strip along the bottom

This is quite interesting, for those who care about PCVs enough to read it https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/10%20TSB's/94-2R1.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj48un9pujgAhWJTn0KHaMmDp4QFjAHegQIDhAh&usg=AOvVaw1N00Pbi73gt7mxCHUc1cHA Apparently you should replace them every 16,000km

They'd probably block up too easily / be too hard to clean? Smoke leaves quite a buildup over time.

AliExpress?

As long as the brakes work it'll be fine, you could even cable tie the pipe on if you felt like it. Trailer WoFs really only care about wheel bearings, tyres, lights, and structural integrity.

It's a trailer, no one gives a fuck tbh. Just shove it inside the rails.

Yeah my thoughts exactly (re: Tom's post). I've personally never seen a "small" engine cook the oil from a bearing failure, generally because it either makes so much noise, locks up or spits the rod before it gets a good glow on. If that is what happened though, or any failure that results in overheated oil, I think it's pretty safe to say it's an anchor.