Yowzer

Is there an edge on the crank pulley that you can cut the teeth directly into? That's what I'm doing on mine since I don't want the tone wheel way out the front

I believe centering rings are required, and you can't redrill from 4 to 5 stud or vice versa, but redrilling the same stud count is ok. I think.

^ Yup start with that. Smoke test if you can, spray brakleen around if you can't. Faulty PCV valves can also do funny things at idle too, pays to whip a new one in while you're at it.

They also look cooler

They move constantly. If you've ever watched the live data on a VVTi car, they dance around all over the show.

Spring-loaded hinge with a titanium spark strip along the bottom

This is quite interesting, for those who care about PCVs enough to read it https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature/english/10%20TSB's/94-2R1.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj48un9pujgAhWJTn0KHaMmDp4QFjAHegQIDhAh&usg=AOvVaw1N00Pbi73gt7mxCHUc1cHA Apparently you should replace them every 16,000km

They'd probably block up too easily / be too hard to clean? Smoke leaves quite a buildup over time.

AliExpress?

As long as the brakes work it'll be fine, you could even cable tie the pipe on if you felt like it. Trailer WoFs really only care about wheel bearings, tyres, lights, and structural integrity.

It's a trailer, no one gives a fuck tbh. Just shove it inside the rails.

Yeah my thoughts exactly (re: Tom's post). I've personally never seen a "small" engine cook the oil from a bearing failure, generally because it either makes so much noise, locks up or spits the rod before it gets a good glow on. If that is what happened though, or any failure that results in overheated oil, I think it's pretty safe to say it's an anchor.

That's a very unusual story. How would you overheat the oil without over heating the water? If there wasn't enough water in it the temperature gauge wouldn't have changed, I had that happen to an engine once when it blew a hose. If it has been proper hot then things could have warped a bit. Bores may not be round anymore. Might just be worth ditching this one and slapping the turbo gear on that other engine.

Yah do that. Something like Rostoff or Nutcracker would be better if you can get hold of it, but otherwise anything to hopefully lube up the bores a bit.

If the belts are tight enough (although I'm guessing they're shit) the engine should be easy enough to spin without the glow plugs that you should be able to wind it around from the alternator or other easily accessible item.

Nah m9, 3" or go home If it's unnecessary, you haven't wound the boost up enough.

We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

That guy has no understanding of electricity and needs to be told so.

Falken I think was the only brand that listed a wider option of rim to tyre size, that I know of.

The manufacturer should have the fitment guides on their websites, but almost all of them are the same as this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjcgLGKk5ngAhWEF3IKHcVOCTEQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0bhxGjpju2v9ai_V7Gf3p8

Amazing that you can read 0.1 lamda resolution on the fly from a spark plug

Yup 3” from churbro to bumper. Helps the fucker spin up faster too

You won't have any EGT issues with a stock engine. Flush / recore the radiator, flush the block, replace the viscose fan hub and you'll be mint. And if it has EGR, blank that shit off.

No adjustments at the pedal end? There should definitely be some free play there

Is there any free play on the clutch fork? Sounds like it's already pressing against the pressure plate for some reason. Wrong slave cylinder perhaps?