Yowzer

The calibration won't change. It's still flowing through the same sensor.

What he means is he should be able to graph the improvements of the exhaust by plotting the MAF. If the tuned pulses from exhaust aid cylinder extraction and scavenging it should allow the engine to breathe more air which will show a higher MAF value, which shows more power without having to use a dyno.

With the correct valve overlap I would expect to see a higher MAF reading with a better exhaust. At a certain RPM at least anyway, and as long as the intake isn't the restriction.

I think because of the advanced cam timing they can achieve the exact same results without the EGR valve, since the engine just stops pumping anyway.

They call it a Stratified EGR Combustion System. Probably a bit newer or something. I went down a rabbit hole awhile back haha

Similar to stratified charge, but I'm not sure of that also includes EGR in its operation

Constantly. It's my day to day job fixing those stupid things. On a petrol engine they contribute to fuel economy quite effectively, exactly how Romans graph shows. They reduce intake vacuum which decreases pumping losses. Modern engines take it a step further with their direct injection swirl valves by seperating the inert EGR gas to the outside of the cylinder and the air/fuel mix in the centre for a more efficient burn. It also allows for more EGR gas to enter the cylinder to "pack it out" as such.

Tuner Studio has an injector test function doesn't it? You can hook up your fuel system and then measure the injection dead time yourself, at different pressure and voltages if need be and build a compensation map for them

We tuned 10-5s Skyline in the Taupo Motorsport carpark before a track day and he ran that tune for at least two years. Tuning is easy. I haven't done anything with boost yet though. Soon....

I've also seen plenty of cars with engine conversions, running the factory computer will all sorts of issues because the wiring has been done so bad. If you can't gauge the quality of work carried out on a car within a few minutes of looking at it, you shouldn't be buying a modified car.

At my old work I dealt with a few cars running ancient Link ECUs. A couple were track cars, one was installed beautifully and ran mint, was was pretty bad and needed a lot of rewiring and tuning to run right. The old Links are less capable than a MS2. The ecu matters significantly less than the quality of install.

Just coz you have chosen to ignore advice doesn't make it useless. What was the point in posting in the first place if all you're going to do is stick with your original plan anyway? Microsquirt, Suprastick, any standalone factory ECU from a deez. What more is there to suggest?

There is no such thing as overkill 3 injectors for idle and low revs, 3 outboard for high RPM. And the other six, you ask? Well they're for the separate methanol fuel system. Flip a switch and it swaps to the meth tune for MOAR POWAR

Only six? Come on man, dream big! 12 injector drivers! Install outboard injectors as well just because you can!

Go pedal your wares elsewhere. If we cared about how much better a Link was, we wouldn't have this thread to begin with.

Chuck the balance shafts back in and you'll be fine

I have a spare a43de TCM I could send you, you should be able to get the box running off that as long as you can give it a speed and TPS signal, however the shift points will be too high for the 1kz and I don't know how you'd go about altering that.

It's even an essential item. How bout that

Is it some sort of bulb powered fuel heater?

Explain this airbox wizardry plz So jealous of paddock and gokarts..

Sheepers is going to ban you for that engine choice

3" for everything Have you seen his work? It sure ain't gonna be rolled bends.

Potentially, but it'd still be down to the individual shop to choose if they stay open

Yeah I doubt it's blower related too. TBH I reckon you chuck on a giant two stage Volvo fan and carry on as per usual

One more note, if you measure the radiator outlet temperature at idle, that'll tell you if the fans aren't keeping up or if the water flow isn't keeping up. If the outlet temperature keeps climbing with engine temp, fit some bigger fans or bigger rad. I recommend a full shroud rather than sticking the fan directly to the rad like you currently have, as the fan is probably only utilizing half the radiators cooling area. If the outlet temp isn't climbing at the rate of engine temp, you don't have enough coolant flow through the engine at idle for some reason. Also I just remembered the waterpump is cambelt driven, so fair to say that hasn't changed. Running a hi-flo thermostat? Edit: perhaps your condenser is blocking / diverting air away from the rad too, try whipping up some channels to ensure the air has nowhere else to go. Giving up solves nothing!