Yowzer

Yeah, looks a little dodge. I wouldn't be trusting it.

Have thought about this for my own car. For one the shock mounting points are not designed to take the weight of the car on it Also, the mounting points are usually closer to the center of the vehicle than the factory springs. This would make the back end less stable, I think. Pivot points and all that. This is just theory, I haven't looked into it properly yet but they are the things that spring to mind that could cause issues. Best bet would to make them fit where the factory springs are.

At least it's still gonna be enjoyed, as opposed to demo derby / scrapped. Resto can still be in its future at some stage Gonna get it road legal?

We'll block it in with 20 wagons. It'll be sweet as

I hope you jack it up on fat mud tires Side / bonnet exit exhaust?

Yeah a good evaluation is important for mint old cars Just in case

Headgasket arrived today, now to slap the wag together asap. Sleeping in it was gonna be an option as well, but accom would be better

X2

Yeah 90deg they are.

My mate recently sold his RT84, was a sweet little car. 18Rs are pretty cruisy engines, and are a lot easier to come by than the original 6R

That is massively sweet helmet

Sorted

Got work off. Just need some wheels

Will hopefully be wagoning it down, pending what the wagon and work is doing.. Better get shit sorted I guess

Peal the sticker off the rocker cover, doubt anyone will ever notice

Regarding the 18r, even though it was a factory engine in those cars, it wasn't the factory engine in your car. Any increase in displacement required a cert, whether or not the engine was a factory option. Which is annoying, but it is very unlikely anyone will ever pick it up unless they are clued up on these sorts of old cars. Which most testing stations aren't.

Hmmm... Never thought of that. Will try that next time. Nah interior lighting is separate from headlight, separate from engine etc. It seems to be fixed now, but I don't really consider it fixed as I still don't know what actually happened

does that count include me? Count me in. never miss this one.. It sure as shit ain't counting rusty Will attempt to get there somehow, haven't hit this stz before

Pretty sure there's aftermarket 8 bolt flywheels, factory are 6 bolt or something.. Guess this is just the same deal, Flexplate should be sweet, flywheel will hold it together

Interesting.. As long as it's balanced and built as good as a normal flywheel, I see no reason why not. Bolts at least go through it into the crank Cheaper to obtain than a proper flywheel?

I think the design of the interior light allows the power wire to touch the body. Was the only conclusion I could come to. Still don't know how flicking on the headlights caused the whole car to lose power though

Seems it was somehow the interior light.. Don't know how turning on the headlights triggered it, or how it managed to kill the whole car, but after taking the interior light out and putting it back in, everything now works dandy The light itself now works too, which it never did previously. Meh, Lucas electrics...

Ok, so the fuse is for the interior lighting.. Therefore I see no reason why this would be effecting the power to the rest of the car... Ideas?

My brothers car ('79 Chrysler Avenger) is shorting out somewhere, problem is I am lacking a wiring diagram and the fuses are unlabelled. Anyway, what happened, the car was running fine but as soon as I turned on the headlights everything went dead. One of the fuses, an 8A, has a massive current trying to flow through it even with everything turned off. If anyone knows what Fuse 4 is, that would be somewhat helpful as I'd have more of a starting point. Seems weird that it would be cutting power to the whole car though, so I suspect more of an issue elsewhere. Any ideas or tips to try would be helpful Cheers

In which case ya shouldn't be using it for track use in the 1st place. The only issue I can see is if something fucks up, it'll fuck up a bit more epically.