Roman

This is coming along nicely! Huge progress since the time I swung past. I think what will make or break a white colour for this car, will be the trim etc contrasting it rather than the colour itself.

An award for being a numpty.... ...And then give it to myself

I dunno but I've got no idea how people drive around with way lower cars haha. The worst one was a dukes of hazzard impression over an unexpectedly elevated set of train tracks crossing the road. Then various road bumps, speed bumps, etc.

Haha, or fit the wheel barrow wheel to my sump.

Unfortunately the motor bangs on the bonnet as it is, stupid tall thing! (Only because of the staged injection though) If I tip the motor on an angle to raise the lowest part of the sump, it also raises the fuel rail into the bonnet. Bugger. I think stiffer front springs is the best bet, as I've currently got ~85mm ground to sump. But front springs are currently probably something like 5kgmm.

Just before leaving taupo I bashed the front of my car into the ground (again) Drove home okay, but figure it's time to sort this out properly. Pulled the sump off, looks pretty bad... AND THEN WHAT THE FUCK IS A SCREW DRIVER DOING IN MY SUMP?! Couldnt believe my eyes when I saw that, must have been there for a long time So perhaps I've fixed an engine rattle as well... I've got a spare oil pan to fit, big thanks to Pe-arce foe this. But I'm hesitant to do so without coming up with a better way of protecting it, I certainly dont want to do the same thing again. I'm thinking some slightly harder springs up front will help. Raise ride height a little and reduce travel a little. Then come up with some sort of bash gaurd.

Does anyone remember that law, where you werent allowed a bonnet cutout unless you were over 18? I got pulled over and the cop said "Hey bro I'm gonna have to see your IDA"

Not as bad as Rotary puns, which just keep on going around.

No pics of exhaust... Is is a supertrapp, or a dumpy?

Have you double checked that your min and max voltages are correct in MS? As I'm pretty sure the MT-X or whatever it's called, has a different min and max voltage (and AFR?) to the LC2 and similar. So that might be throwing it off a little.

What type?

I've had an annoyance for a while where my tacho and speedo are in accurate. As in, if they're accurate at 100kph they arent accurate at 60. I couldnt replace the tacho and speedo functions with a general purpose PWM because it only adjusts PWM (at a static frequency) rather than variable frequency which is how they both work. So asked Link to put that on the to-do list, and they've just sorted it with recent firmware. I've now calibrated them both super accurate at 500rpm intervals and 10 or 20kph intervals. Previously the problem was that once you get to 6000rpm or ~140kph, after that they would both zing right off the clock. Now they sweep through beautifully. Awesome! Will be a lot more useful at trackdays and a lot more interesting to watch for in car video. I've now been thinking that it would be cool to do similar for the factory oil pressure sensor / gauge. Instead of just having a dumb reading from the sensor straight to gauge. I could now have the sensor going into the ECU (more datalogging, yusss) and then output a 3D table to the gauge, so that it shows that "good" oil pressure is the same point on the gauge through the rpm range and also through engine temp. (oil temp would be better, but cbf plumbing in my temp sensor yet) Then from here I can have one my conditions on a warning light to be whenever the gauge goes into the "bad" area of the 3D table. Which is seems especially useful in my case because I'm always banging my sump into the ground. <3 EFI stuff

Does your existing setup run a return line back to the tank, or does the fuel just sit in the carbs heating up? If you dont have a return line, then that's probably a good thing to setup if it's possible with your setup. I would *guess* that this would make more difference to fuel heat than switching to electric pump.

Wrap exhaust with this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-WRAP-HEAT-SHIELD-TURBOCHARGER-COVER-WRAP/1871678780.html And stick this on bottom of carbs / fuel lines / heat shield (making a heat shield that has an air gap to both the carbs and exhaust is best idea) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-EPMAN-2-x5-Meter-Roll-SELF-ADHESIVE-REFLECT-A-GOLD-HEAT-WRAP-BARRIER-Hot/32403580701.html The gold reflective stuff has the glue turn to mush if you get fuel on it though. That heat wrap is infinity billion times better than the normal fibreglass stuff. Made a big difference to engine bay temps in my car. I havent tested conclusively about the Gold sticker stuff, but other people have used it to stop their bonnets melting or whatever when very close to a very hot turbo.

Impressive!

No people. Just no.

Pretty easy if you're wanting to retain your existing crownwheel and pinion, just swap them over to new diff. The tricky part is setting the bearing preload correctly because the IRS unit uses shims instead of the rotating thingys on the live axles. You cant really swap over the whole carrier though because everything is different. It may very well be that if you use the same crown wheel and pinion that the existing shims are okay though. If not I'd take it to a diff shop because it's a pain in the balls trying to get that setup. You can make a torsen more aggressive by using a thicker oil in it. I think there is also a way you can add more preload to the internal wizard magic to push it harder against the housing for less slip. But cant remember.

I still havent unpacked my car from Taupo trackday a few weeks back. Need to investigate my thoroughly smashed in looking sump... Maybe bring the yellow car out for a tootle

Nah they suck

Yeah that could be interesting to see, especially in that intercooler example.

Lets go spend some time tuning your car Ned! Get that fuel economy hhhnnnnngggggggg

Three things relevant-ish to this thread but off topic to what's currently being discussed: 1. I went to a Taupo trackday, went out for first stint and then came back in and checked the logs. AFRs were good, everything running well.. Although, why is my intake only getting to 96kpa at WOT? Has the bellmouth inside my airbox fallen off? Oh wait... Checks the Barometer and that's at 96kpa because the track is ~400m above sea level Everything working as intended. 2. I've been running a Tomei copy adjustable FPR to get a higher fuel pressure, currently running ~70psi at WOT and have vaccum connected to reduce pressure when at low load... But my fuel pump sounds like it struggles a bit. I think I'll switch back to the factory FPR to simplify my fuel system and give my fuel pump a bit of a break. I've already had a fuel pump fail when I've been quite far from home, not keen on round 2! Maybe I should put the car on the dyno first though and see if there's any benefit to the higher pressure. I think the way to go here is come up with a number first, then stick to that. "If it makes less than xyz HP difference, I'll get rid of it" 3. Something interesting regarding IAT, previously I've always had my IAT mounted somewhere ahead of the throttle body. When I had it mounted in a 3" pipe, as soon as you mash the throttle the IAT would change really quickly. Then when I built my new airbox which has much lower airspeed due to big volume, the IAT responds really slowly. Since then, I've mounted it inside the plenum behind the throttle body, and have found that the IAT responds very slowly annnnddddd it consistently stays ~10-15deg hotter than before. I'm not convinced as to whether this is the plenum heat soaking the sensor and giving a falsely higher temperature, or whether this is actually more indicative of the actual air temperature after it's spent time in the plenum heating up on the way in. Since my air intake currently takes air from the engine bay rather than an external source, it may just be that the average engine bay temp rises over time and this is what the sensor shows. It would be interesting to setup a compensation table relating to a surface mounted thermistor on the plenum, you could either prove that it's the difference or rule it out. And maybe a 2nd temp sensor just in engine bay to compare to haha.

Hi there, Just using the functionality built into Solidworks. It's very cool, you should definitely have a play around. Feel free to flick me a PM if you want some more info on how to set it up etc.

They were cheap and plentiful, but then everyone blew them up because they were cheap and plentiful. So now they arent haha.

Sheesh I bet that thing's a bit of a laugh! That's a lot of power for a light car. Looks awesome man.