Roman

Hey guys, There's a playday event happening on the Monday of ANZAC weekend. Would be great to see some OS people along! Trying to find a way to make it there on semis...

You got a fast car It'll get a ticket to anywhere Maybe it needs water seals Maybe together we hook Os somewhere Any temp is better Starting from zero got nothing to lose Maybe we'll overheat something Me myself I got nothing to prove ~Tracy Brapman

Yes, I need to take the diff out and remake the mounts. I will procrastinate on this issue for.... 1 more year. No wait! Two. Two more years.

Booked in for an ANZAC day trackday at Hampton. Cant wait! Between now and then, just giving the car a once over and making sure the brake pads/discs etc are still looking alright. Pads are maybe 2/3rds worn now, but have not had a single iota of brake fade using them. Ferodo DS2200 gets my tick of approval. While I've had everything apart, thought I'd see if these other tire sizes look feasible... Keep in mind that these pictures are shown with the tire resting against the strut, so would have to sit 10+mm further out. starting with 235/50/15 Definitely too wide! then next a 225/50/15 This might be doable! It would be awesome to run a 225 all round. Might give me a few more laps before tires start overheating. Maybe a few less laps until brakes start getting super hot though... Might need some venting if driving with semislicks. As the discs look like they've seen some epic temperatures which cant be great for bearings etc. Might repack the bearings with grease while it's all apart. Trackdays wouldnt be fun, without procrastinating about putting your car back together until the night before. EDIT: Late request by Snoozin for more graphs per post:

I'm a fuse Greg, could you blow me?

Ro-tea-re engine with dilma belt

An oil change could make all of the difference, if it's been in there forever... Worth a try as your only other option is dissasembly.

Firstly, what type of LSD is it? Different oil might fix shudder in one type but not another. My experiences with a plate type. Getting shudder means the plates are grabbing too much and so the tire skips instead. As the diff stays locked. Unless there's grooves or something on the plates causing it to bind or something, but you wont know that without pulling it apart. In my experience: Used some type of LSD oil available from Repco and had a mad shudder. Tried tried the redline equivilent and it was much better, even though same oil grade... but shudder still there. Then I added a bottle of Cusco friction modifier oil (you can get this from BNT) and it was night and day difference. Still shuddered though! So ended up disassembling LSD and reducing preload and changed plate order etc, and this totally transformed how the car behaved. Then went back to the original (cheaper) type of oil with no modifier in it, and life has been good ever since. TL;DR: Changing oil made some amount of difference, but didnt make the issue go away.

The factory GZE ECU already does switch it off at cruising, so you'll not gain much form that. Buuuutttt there's an undeniable novelty factor of having a supercharger turn on with the flip of a switch, and I'm all for novelties Shout out if you get stuck on something and need a hand, no spare parts though sadly!

4AG(Z)E swap is just toooooooo easy in a Carina, great option! Already A series cross member/mounts, already a T50, already hydraulic clutch, already an A series bellhousing, already T series diff etc etc. Way easier than AE85 > AE86 as half of the stuff is already there. All signs point to 4AGZE being an awesome option

EDIT: Also there must be enough akl carinas for a meet / photoshoot some time! Ash - coupe Fong - White Sedan NicT - Red coupe ??? - Red coupe seen at akl meet Roman - grey coupe Roman - yellow coupe

Ahh I see, flat head for 2 valve engine, phillips for 4 valve

The factory sump is pretty awesome, when you look at the cast alloy piece that bolts to bottom of engine as well. Definitely leagues ahead of Gen 1&2 sump that was just a single piece pressed "swimming pool" design heh. The dipstick hole being enlarged obviously acts like a drain to sump, perhaps same for other side. But maybe one of those things that works well on street tires but not so well on track tires under heavy braking where a lot more oil tries to slosh back up on top. Definitely seems like intentional design decisions, for whatever reason. Unless it's a manufacturing thing perhaps. Dont really hear of people blowing big ends quite like you do with earlier engines... Altezza engines usually have a titanium valve break, then break the cambelt, then fuck the entire engine. People always go on about a flat head V8, that's what they're meaning right?

HOW TO: TRD spec your beams oil pan Back in the day, TRD made a bunch of parts for the beams engine but they're mostly discontinued. Which is no real loss as they all cost zillions so no one bought them. One product that they made though is a TRD oil pan, which was essentially mildly modified standard one. So here's what they did (Thanks to CelicaRA45 for the info) Step 1: Lower the oil pickup deeper in the pan with a spacer. (4mm thick from memory) You need a 2nd spacer of same thickness for the brace on the pickup obviously. (NOTE: Not reccomended mod if you think you're likely to smash your pan into the ground, removed mine ages ago for this reason) Step 2: The front left corner of the sump, for some reason, has a section where under hard braking the oil can flow back out the top of the oil pan: Soooo bash the bejesus out of this, to seal the gap like so: Step 3: The other place where oil can flow up out of the pan, is the dip stick hole. So you want to fit a pipe that extends down into the pan pretty much to the bottom (just need to leave enough gap so that oil can reach its level when the car is stationary) and then extend the pipe upwards as far as it can go without hitting the underside of the alloy part of the sump. Cant remember exact measurements for this but it's pretty self explanatory Step 4: Clean the heck out of everything so there's no oil at all. Then, with some Toyota Seal packing Black run a bead around the perimeter of the pan to fill any small gaps, then give it a smear down into the gap so that it fills up any potential leaks. I mention Toyota Seal Packing Black in particular, because it's Wizard Magic stuff. Expensive - But awesome. If you're gonna use some other gunk then dont bother with this step. It's money well spent for the comfort of knowing that my sump isnt going to leak... ever. That's it! Reassemble it all and enjoy some high G cornering without blowing your shit up. Still need to make a bash gaurd, but I'm at least back in action as soon as I bother buying some oil and topping it back up.

I'll get back to you after I've tested now that the screw driver is gone

Yeah easy enough to make, just need a Bosch donut style knock sensor, shielded cable and then wire it as an aux in to your laptop. Then listen with headphones. Just need to turn off software processing or whatever so you dont get any latency. Handy that you can record it as well though. I had it setup this way but ended up wiring knock sensor directly into ECU.

Pretty sure only some of the G1s are laptop tunable? PClink for G1 is tragic, download it before you consider buying one. Whatever money you save on ECU you'll spend on extra fuel trying to tune it. Do not want

Oh god that log file comparison thing is amazing! Cheers!

My sump is about 85mm off the ground at last check, but lower since I've got these temporary tires on front which got me back from taupo. also perhaps a little less since I tipped in slightly more camber. The lower arms lean up towards the centre of the car, as I've got RCAs.

That's quite a drop! How do you overlay two runs like that in PClink?

In other news, your under car suspension videos are really awesome! Great idea.

That's the second graph that I've seen posted in a project thread today, by someone apart from me. Loving life right now

No I hadnt seen that, thank you that's perfect.

Hey, Was wondering if anyone has measured the actual flow rate of an oil pump before, or has figures from any engine. Just looking for a rough figure, so something from any engine would be fine (Looking for a litres per minute figure at xyz rpm or something like that)

Posting graphs in your project thread So thoughts on the new manifold, keep it or go back to the other one? Or cant really tell outside of the cam timing differences yet. Off topic but I saw this really awesome article where a guy somehow measured the strength of exhaust pulse over a single cycle, will try find it